June 2009
Last night was Snooth-a -thon II and we celebrated in style with some classy ... with a pair of whites:
1993 Eyrie Oregon Chardonnay - This had a lovely waxy nose with notes of golden raspberries, cashews and hazelnuts. In the mouth the fruit remains sweet and expansive with bright... Read moreLast night was Snooth-a -thon II and we celebrated in style with some classy ... with a pair of whites:
1993 Eyrie Oregon Chardonnay - This had a lovely waxy nose with notes of golden raspberries, cashews and hazelnuts. In the mouth the fruit remains sweet and expansive with bright acids backing up the dried apple fruit tones that lead to a finish with inner mouth aromatics of tobacco and cocoa powder and piercing minerality on the finale. Drink em if you can find them but this is holding superbly. 92pts
1997 Kalin Sauvignon Blanc - With it's unusual nose of clay and dried fruity marshmallows and minty herbs this was intriguing to smell if totally outside or expectations, but that's what Kalin does so well. This was rich and quite viscous in the mouth with great tension between the sparkling minerailty and the green gage plum fruit tones that had great resonance. 90pts
After these two starters we were off to the races. I poured a magnum as we took our seats to peruse the menu.
1978 BV Claret from magnum - This was dusty and ashy on the nose with light cherry fruit and hints of leather and tobacco. It retains a bright, juicy character and may be simple but is so fresh and simply enjoyable that this was a bit of a surprise. Even at the end of the night, as we scavenged around for remaining wine this retained a lovely roasted berry/cranberry fruitiness that made it so easy to drink, and enjoy. Nothing earthshaking but a very solid bottle. 87pts
1941 Sebastiani Cabernet Sauvignon bottled in 1947 - I have already gone into detail regarding this bottling and you can read more about it here. Tonight we had a bottle that lacked the depth of the better bottles that I've had of this wine with a nose that showed fraying at the seams but still offered up a bit of poopy beet root, black pepper, and deep smoky tones with lots of cigar box and tobacco. In the mouth the acid drew this out and highlighted the small core of slightly chunky fruit with some slightly gritty tannins giving a bit of structure to the wine. It's fading in the glass but remains a treat to try and completely drinkable. 86pts.
1974 Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon - This was rocking this evening with a sweetly earthy nose full of sweet middle eastern spice tones, green olive, beef broth and dark berry fruit. This is still superbly fresh on the palate with silky smooth polished tannins that float across a sweetly fruited black cassis and olive toned mid-palate with a hint of rusticity that shows itself in the slight animale tones that lead to the long finish. A brilliant wine 95pts
1985 Charles Krug Vintage Selection Cabernet Sauvignon - From magnum- This was pumping out pure black currant fruit with a deeply herbaceous almost grassy edge and notes of ace bandage adding complexity. For all it's herbal tones on the nose the palate showed masses of bright, juicy intense fruit with fairly substantial tannins backing up all that richness. The finish is nice and long with black raspberry tones and while this really is a bit simple it is so exuberantly fruity you have to love it if you love Cabernet! 91pts
Next up was a horizontal from 1986. In general I am a big fan of these wines, they are great examples of California Cabernet in their prime and along with 1985 offer some of the greatest values on the market today.
1986 Inglenook Cask Selection - This was very pungent, brothy and evolved on the nose with like flavors in the mouth. Past peak and a victim of mishandling along the way.
1986 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon - A nice dose as ass leather great the nose but behind it this is very clear and pure with black currants, eucalyptus, and soil tones. It's dense and chewy in the mouth with solid supporting acidity and tannins that remain slightly chalky. It's got great length and comes off as a particularly sinewy, muscular example of Sonoma Mountain Cabernet that may benefit from another several years in the cellar. 91pts
1986 Rutherford Hill XVS Cabernet Sauvignon - This still has a touch of vanillin on the nose along with black raspberry tones, mint, a hint of stemminess and a touch of wood spice. In the mouth this is incredibly vibrant with a very precise, chiseled feel and lovely rosemary stem tones that help frame the black berry fruits. the tannins are mostly resolved but add support to the fruit giving the wine nice volume in the mouth. A great time to drink this! 91pts
After the great 1986's we took a bit of a detour with two wines on their own.
1989 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace - From what is widely regarded as a crappy vintage comes this surprisingly appealing wine that speaks more of Diamond creek than the crappy vintage. Lightly gamy on the nose with some nice iron tones and deeply spicy earth tones that translate to a lean, focused palate presence with lots of leathery tones but nice dark, dried cherry fruit and tea notes as well. Neither a power house nor a sweetly fruited wine but rather a wine built on Bordelais sensibilities. 89pts
1995 Teldeschi Zinfandel - This provided a real break in the action with it's sweetly fruited nose that retained a bit of nougat and spice from the wood but had great, spicy brambly blackberry fruit. Big, round and plush in the mouth with lots of slightly roasted plummy fruit up front and a great spicy, peppery follow through. Great with my duck breast in port reduction! 90pts
The 1995 Teldeschi moved us from the past into the almost present as we now were faced with some big, badass wines that had a lot of evolving to do!
1996 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon - Much like the 86 this had a wonderful nose with cassis and herb in harmony and gentle backing tones of wood spice and eucalyptus. Big and chewy in the mouth with superbly refreshing acidity that prevented this from becoming ponderous. This seems a touch hot and short at this moment though the wine is packed with fruit and tannin that are very well managed so this should have a long life ahead but tonight it is a touch diffuse. 90pts
1995 Cornerstone Beatty Cabernet Sauvignon - This has a huge chocolate and raspberry nose with tons of backing spice/gingerbread notes and integrated french oak tones. Rich and polished in the mouth yet at the same time this is restrained and transparent like fine strawberry jelly. Impeccably well balanced for such a fruit driven wine. Really fabulous modern Cali Cab with mouthfilling sweet patisserie notes and a long, spicy finish with lingering hints of ginger and vanillin. 94pts
1999 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon - Smoky and deep on the nose with alot of oak showing but lots of muscular, extracted fruit too. This is super TIGHT in the mouth with big structure showing excellent balance but this is all about potential at this point so I'll give it a conservative 90pts with the warning not to touch this for another 5 years at bare minimum!
My finale wines of the night were two great vintages of Chateau Montelena which shared such a resemblance that they became quite the topic of conversation!
1990 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon- This is just classic Montelena with it's notes of seared black cassis mingled with spiced oak tones and a hint of green anise seed. In the mouth it's smooth and seamless with full, ripe round tannins and gentle hints of tomato leaf and herb framing the deep black fruit tones. Lovely wine and with a bright future. 92pts
1999 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - This is very young and still heavily marked by oak on the nose with a fudgy quality that detracts from the rich, jammy fruit. In the mouth this has great balance with good mineral cut on the finish but the wood intrudes here as well offering a bit of bitter tannin on the finale that needs several years to resolve itself. Nothing wrong here just too young. Give this another 5 years or so and it should reveal much better definition to the fruit. 91pts.
And that was our night, well most of it anyway. Some of us ventured out into the evening for a few additional drinks where the conversation turned to hiccups, oral indiscretions and hookers but that's a story for another night!
I just want to thank everyone who came and contributed to making this another great evening. I had a blast and can't wait to do it again. Well actually give me a few days to recover but I'll be ready soon enough. In fact I have to run now to a business dinner where we'll have to drink 1997 Fontallorro, 1997 Flaccianello, 1996 Oddero Vigna Rionda Barolo, 1996 Pira Marneca Barolo...
That one hardworing
Gregory Dal Piaz
Community Manager
Snooth
Photos by Brooklynwino - Thanks Steph (hide)