January 2011
Today, in addition to continuing my discussion about the state of the Puglian wine industry, I’ll also be taking a look at some of the perennial next greatest unknown wines of Italy: Aglianico. I was fortunate to taste these wines, as well as the Puglian wines in previous... Read moreToday, in addition to continuing my discussion about the state of the Puglian wine industry, I’ll also be taking a look at some of the perennial next greatest unknown wines of Italy: Aglianico. I was fortunate to taste these wines, as well as the Puglian wines in previous reports, courtesy of the 2010 Radici Wine Festival, which was held in November to coincide with the release of the current edition of Radici’s guide to Puglian wines. Some of you might be wondering why I’m talking about a grape more closely associated with Basilicata, but the truth is the province of Puglia is long and almost surrounds some of the great wine regions of Basilicata. Yes, there is Aglianico in Puglia, as well as Aglianico made in Puglia from vines across the provincial boundary. So, whether you consider it to be a Puglian grape or not, there are Puglian wines to be considered. In some ways Aglianico is emblematic of where Puglian wine has been, where it is today, and where it is headed in the future. Aglianico is an ancient grape, very possibly brought to Italy by the ancient Greeks and inheriting its name from the name “Ellenico,” or "Greek." Jeremy Parzen’s fine article on the topic can be found at Aglianico ≠ Ellenico? on Do Bianchi.Click for a slideshow of 6 top Puglian wines.While the name's origins are fascinating, it’s the color, alcohol and polyphenolic richness that concern us here. Aglianico has a history as a blending grape precisely because it has so much to offer. In some ways it actually has too much to offer, and might be best blended to help soften its robust character. But the trend of the day is to bottle it on its own, and from a single vineyard if possible. I’m not saying that this is right or wrong, only that we are in the midst of a learning adventure -- as producers take wines that were once used to augment the wines, very frequently, of other more illustrious regions, and try to make them their own. We have moved from one extreme to another and only now are seeing this mature yet dynamic market segment discovering its new medium. In addition to Aglianico, many blended wines are playing a role in this transformation of the Puglian winescape. I’ve included reviews of these wines in today’s feature. Puglia has long been a land of bulk wine production or the previously mentioned vino da taglio production. This had as much to do with luck as intent. Not only is Puglia blessed with a rather comfortable climate for grape-growing, but it is also home to many indigenous grape varieties that produce powerful, dark, alcoholic wines -- perfect for enriching a lighter, cooler-climate wine if that’s your thing.Because of this reliance on bulk wine production, many vineyards were planted with clones of grapes that stressed productivity: that is, quantity over quality. While in production as bulk wine producers, these vines tended to be used for as long as possible since they didn’t easily support their wholesale replanting and few winemakers were enthusiastic about the prospect of three years without a crop.This left Puglia in a difficult, but not impossible, position. With all those old vines there was certainly the promise of something special lurking among the vineyards. After all, there must be some superb plots mated to clones that somehow were able to produce high-quality fruit, regardless of their profligacy. The trouble then was simply in finding those vines, knowing what to do with them, and being able to bring them to market. Easy, right? Well, it sure is easy to write that down, but an industry based on inexpensive and bulk wine production can hardly afford to make these kinds of sweeping changes. So, how does it happen? In two stages, at least. Two very different stages. In Puglia, as in any region, there were larger producers prepared to make the investment in new products. For them it was easy enough to do. Drop yields in a certain vineyard, hire a fancy consultant winemaker, add some international varieties to help “improve” the wine, let the grapes get super-ripe (after all, the wine can always be corrected in the winery), then age it all in toasty new barrels and wait for the great scores to roll in. Those early scores are very important, so you can be sure that the first vintage was a selection of all the lots made. Perhaps 20 barrels were produced, and 10% or 20% actually made it into the finale blend. It’s the mythical critic’s cuvee on mass scale, and a worthwhile investment in that wine’s future.These early-to-market wines are important on many levels, even if they turn out to be internationalized crap. The most important is as media fodder. Like every area of the media, writers are constantly on the lookout for new material, and wine writers tend to want to set themselves apart. And there is no better way than to be the first to recognize greatness. Add in a nice junket, great meals and some V.I.P. treatment, and it’s easy to see how a new wine or region can gain a perhaps unfair portion of media attention. So, it’s easy to get the media to pay attention to your new wine, but it does take resources and the follow-through requires even more resources. If you really want to make a splash you’ll need to have good distribution, so various wine writers can become early adopters and their thirsty audiences can slurp up this newfound treasure. True success, after all, requires broad adoption, but all that’s required for broad adoption is availability and those big scores. So, those early-to-market wines play a vital role in establishing an emerging market, but what about the wines?Well, those wines were early to market for several reasons, but they aren’t necessarily the best wines a region, or even a producer, can bottle. They are wines that are made in the cellar. We’ve seen that before and, more often than not, those wines that wowed on release and seemed so promising simply fell apart after a few years in the cellar. Is that the fate of these wines? I don’t know, but I would say that it is certainly possible. AglianicoAntica Enotria2007 Aglianico$24Complex and rich on the nose, with lots of black fruit topped with notes of leather, soil, spice and a touch of basil. In the mouth, this is packed with fruit supported by juicy acids and fine, faceted tannins. The long finish is fruity but cut by those fine tannins. Engaging wine with good varietal character. 91pts2006 Carbone 400 Some$NA (Not available in the U.S.), $20 in ItalySweetly aromatic with rich, spicy, peppery wild blackberry fruit. Lovely in the mouth, full of ripe tannins and bright acids that support pure, fresh blackberry and black plum skin fruit. The finish is long and lightly spicy, earthy. Certainly good today, but this might be better with another year or three in the cellar. 91ptsTarantini2008 Aglianico$NALeathery on the nose, with precise aromas of ash, tobacco smoke, and minerally black fruit. Bright and crisp in the mouth, with crisp tannins covered in rich plummy, blackberry fruit that finishes with a nice mineral tone, though it could use a bit more length. 90pts2007 Grifalco di Lucania Damaschito Aglianico del Vulture$NA, $20 in ItalyA bit of diesel on the nose with woody smoky tones and a nice salame top note. Suave and fairly refined in the mouth, with tons of tannin but very fine-grained, ripe tannins. This is full of wild plum and blueberry fruit that extends on the long finish. A really nice, fruit-driven Aglianico. 90pts2006 Conte Spagnoletti Zeuli Ghiandara Castel del Monte Aglianico$NA, $12 in ItalyNicely aromatic on the nose, with touches of sandalwood and aromatic herbs accenting the liquory black fruits. Somewhat lighter-styled in the mouth, with pretty black fruits that are slightly spicy, presented in a balanced, easy drinking style and ending on a moderately long blackberry finish. 89ptsCarbone2004 Stupor Mundi Aglianico$NA, $15 in ItalySmoky and lightly oaky on the nose with an intense, candied, floral edge to the meaty fruit. Sweet on entry with a bit of toasty sweetness accenting the big, savory, juicy fruit. The finish is pretty well dominated by drying wood tannin. A lot of wine and a lot to like, but the wood is a bit aggressive today. 89ptsCarbone2008 Terra dei Fuochi$NA, $12 in ItalyEvolved on the nose with a caramelly top note to the spicy, meaty aromas that offer up complicating notes of coffee candy and light herbal tones. Nice blueberry and blackberry fruit in the mouth, with well managed tannins giving this a nice, focused medium-bodied feel. The finish is crisp and clear with attractive tannins subsumed in black cherry fruit. Fruit-driven without being fruity. 89pts Villa Schinosa2006 Aglianico$NA Spicy and soil-driven on the nose with lightly gamy, sweet, dark, meaty fruits. Rich and polished in the mouth, with juicy black fruits and soft tannins that extend on the moderately long, juniper-scented finish. 88ptsTenuta Girolamo 2008 Aglianico$NAA bit closed on the nose with a real leathery note under which are lightly spicy, earthy tones. Easy on entry with good clarity on the mid-palate, which reveals slightly stiff tannins supporting gently black fruit that is simple but offers a good introduction to the varietal. 88pts2008 Grifalco Aglianco del Vulture$NA, $15 in ItalyPerfumed with rich purple fruit on the nose, edged with gentle notes of forest floor, juniper and white pepper. Soft and rich on entry, with tannins that build through the mid-palate to an inky intensity of plummy fruit on the spicy finish. 88ptsTerra Maiorum2008 L’Orazio Aglianico$NAFairly complex and pure on the nose with layered notes of rosemary, roast meat, crushed black fruit and black spice notes. Fairly round in the mouth with modest tannins making this fairly easy to drink. A bit pedestrian and lacking some complexity but good purity to the black fruit makes this a solid wine. 87pts2006 Grifalco di Lucania Bosco del Falco Aglianico del Vulture$NA, $25 in ItalyVery ripe on the nose with black fruits framed with menthol, medicinal and dried meaty tones. Really quite complex and evolving. Velvety on entry with lots of tactile dry extract. The mid-palate picks up some noticeable wood tannin, lending this a dried-out nature, particularly on the leathery finish. 87ptsGrifalco della Lucania2008 Gricos Aglianico del Vulture$15Very soil-driven nose with oily notes and fairly light fruit tones. Rich in soft tannins and well integrated acidity make this fairly elegant, if tannic. The finish is long but the wine lacks overall flavor intensity. 86ptsGrifalco della Lucania2007 Grifalco Aglianico del Vulture$15Tarry and inky on the nose with a meaty notes and hints of violet and pepper that recall Syrah. Smooth and packed with polished tannin that supports spicy, dark, earthy fruit. The tannins build on the palate. Kick-you-in-the-face tannins. Might mature into something nice, but for the foreseeable future only for tannin pigs. 86pts Puglian Blends2007 L’Astore75% Aglianico, 25% Petite Verdot$NA, $25 in ItalyThis is remarkably complex on the nose, with perfumed floral tones over lightly peppery black fruits all framed with hints of leather and soil. Beautifully textured in the mouth with bright, juicy acids and powerful but refined tannins. Even with this power this remains rather light on its feet with gorgeous black fruits, spices and finesse on the finish. 94ptsAntica Enotria2007 Dieci OttobreAglianico, Nero di Troia 50/50$NAOlive and black currant jam aromas are underpinned by smoky, spicy, soil-tinged notes. This is massive and deep-smelling. Beautifully textured, with very present tannins lending a really firm texture yet perfectly balanced by the intensity of the precise black fruits. Nicely herbal-edged in the mouth and onto the lightly spicy finish, which remains tense, poised and succulent. 93ptsLa Marchese2009 Cacc’ e Mmitte$NAVery seductively aromatic with some wood notes lending a cedary base on which violet, spiced plum, and wild cherry fruits build. The high acid entry is followed by a wave of tannins, though the intensely aromatic fruit handles it well. This is powerful and yet so precise, with juicy wild cherry fruit topping the formidable structure through the long finish. 92pts2007 RarumNegroamaro/ Malvasia Nera 50/50$NATarry on the nose with noticeable VA; hugely spicy with notes of cloves and mace accenting the dried cherry and date fruit. Sweet on entry yet well balanced with an elegant mid-palae and long, complex finish of dried fruit and spice tones. 91pts2008 Metiusco Rosso Passito 25% Malvasia Nera, 50% Negroamaro, 20% Montepulciano, 5% Primitivo$NASweet-smelling with nicely complex aromas of almond, coffee, fig, cherry and leather. A touch sweet in the mouth but really juicy with nice tannic cut across the palate that prevents the spicy, lightly jammy strawberry and cherry fruit from becoming cloying. The finish is long, complex and spiced. This looks like it can improve with age. 91ptsMasseria l’Astore2005 L’Argentieri70% Negroamaro, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon$NA, $18 in ItalyInsidious green herbal notes underlie the spicy, lead pencil and cinnamon-flecked black fruit tones. Big, smooth and polished with a gentle bitterness on entry that leads to a mid-palate full of black currant and bitter cherry fruit. The texture in the mouth is very fine though drying tannins appear on the finish. Ageworthy? 90ptsPalama2009 Metiusco Salento Rosso25% Malvasia Nera, 50% Negroamaro, 20% Montepulciano, 5% Primitivo$25Aromatic if medicinal on the nose, with notes of beet root and tomato leaf over light red fruits. Quite herbal. Powerful in the mouth with intense dark red fruits and peppery overtones all topped with a touch of licorice. A lot of youthful wine. 90ptsCantine Ferri2008 Ebrius70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Primitivo$NA, $8 in ItalyLightly minty on the nose with spicy, herbal-toned black currant fruit. Nice on entry with a fine bed of tannins that extends through the moderately long finish. The tannins give this a nicely austere feel and the fruit builds nicely in the mouth with both black and red berry tones. Elegant, well balanced and structured. 90ptsCantine Ferri2008 RubeoUva di Troia/Bombino Nero$NASpicy on the nose with nicely complex fruit tones. Smooth and fruity in the mouth with a nice fresh feel and good depth to the dark fruit. This has nice cut in the mouth with a touch of rosé on the moderately long finish that firms up considerably. 89ptsAntiche Aziende Canosine2007 Aufidus 65% Uva di Troia, 35% Montepulciano$NAClear and clean on the nose with light stemmy spice and a touch of mineral charcoal over fresh wild berry fruits. Bright in the mouth with edgy acids supporting rich black fruits. The balance here is very attractive, keeping this refreshing and easy to drink. 89ptsTerre Federiciane2007 delle Vigne70% Nero di Troia, 30% Montepulciano$NASpicy on the nose with lots of fruit but some raw wood tones as well. This turns really smoky with air. Round with wood sweetness lending a softness on the palate. This is packed with fruit and has huge acids keeping everything fresh but finishes a bit short. Some time will help the well managed wood to integrate here. 89pts Botromagno2007 5 Uve Murgia Rosso IGTEqual amounts of Aglianico, Montepulciano, Primitivo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot$NA, $15 in ItalyVery ripe on the nose with black fruits edged in smoky fennel seed notes. Sweetly fruited in the mouth and quite complex for a decidedly fruit-driven wine. The palate is full of black fruits with good acidity and a moderately long, succulent finish. 88ptsAlberto Longo2007 4.7.7. Syrah$NA, $20 in ItalyDark and toasty on the nose with beefy aromas topped by coffee and chocolate shavings. Big and certainly well made with rich berry and plum fruit, accented with sweet, vanilla, cedar, and wood spice tones. Long, polished and international, though this does have a certain appeal. 88ptsTerre Federiciane2008 Giove Rosso60% Montepulciano, 40% Nero di Troia$NAQuite aromatic with stemmy, floral notes framing gentle dark berry fruit. A touch rustic in the mouth with vibrant cherry and blackberry fruit supported by good acids and slightly angular tannins. The fruit sneaks past the tannins on the moderately long finish. A classic table wine, delicious, interesting, fruit-driven without being fruity. 88ptsBotromagno2006 Pier delle Vigne60% Aglianico, 40% Montepulciano$25A bit poppy and certainly leathery on the nose with some charred wood character integrated in rich blue and black fruits. Some wood sweetness on entry is followed by a nice, fairly elegant, if detail-less, mid-palate that offers up transparent blackberry fruits. Could improve. 88ptsConte Spagnoletti Zeuli2009 Castel del Monte RossoNero di Troia/Montepulciano$NA, $7 in ItalyFresh and slightly herbal on the nose with pure raspberry fruit and complicating soil and herbaceous tones. Lovely in the mouth, fresh and brisk, with modest tannins and bright acidity supporting transparent, fresh fruit topped with subtle herbal tones. Yes, it’s simple but balanced and drinkable. An ideal table wine. 88ptsCefallicchio2007 Rosso Canosa65% Nero di Troia, 35% Montepulciano$16Complex aromas of lipstick, smoldering hay, gravel, tar, dried flowers -- all underpinned by a touch of honeycomb sweetness. Black soil and spice tones dominate the entry with bitter cherry fruit on the mid-palate, which shows good intensity in a lean style. The finish is fairly long and mineral-driven with a nice wild cherry finale. 88ptsTenuta Girolamo2004 Petrakos80% Merlot, 20% Primitivo$NA, $32 in ItalyIntensely aromatic with rich notes of cocoa, gamy meat, and raw wood. Smooth on entry with good acids supporting lots of sour plum fruits that lead to a modest finish, which is cut short by aggressive tannins. Time might allow for some improvement here, but the tannins are out of balance and the fruit might lose freshness with time. 88ptsCastel di Salve2007 P PrianteNegroamaro/Montepulciano, 50/50$18Big tobacco, toast and black spice notes on the nose. Very polished and smooth in the mouth, with nicely integrated though noticeable tannin lending a chalky feel to the soft finish, which shows some coffee crema notes. A bit blocky and anonymous. 88pts2008 L Lama del Tenente35% Primitivo, 35% Montepulciano, 30% Negroamaro$NA, $20 in ItalyComplex on the nose though mostly with toasty, milk chocolaty, oaky notes. Thick and chewy in the mouth with nutty notes up front, nice fruit on the mid-palate, and then cola tones on the short finish. Very modern-styled wine. 87ptsVilla Schinosa2006 San ValentinoNero di Troia, Cabernet Sauvignon$NA, $20 in ItalyStemmy on the nose with olive, olive leaf and scorched earth aromas. A bit heavy and over-ripe in the mouth with a soft easy feel and gently herb-tinged black fruits that are marred by a hint of bitterness on the moderately long finish. 87pts2005 Terranera40% Nero di Troia, 40% Montepulciano, 20% Aglianico$NA, $25 in ItalyIntensely aromatic and spicy, with an underlay of roasted meat and spicy cinnamon top notes over hard black fruit. Sweet and round in the mouth with a very supple feel, though the flavors are a bit muddy. There’s a lot of dark fruit here but this wine trades clarity for density. 87ptsTerra Maiorum2008 Castel de MonteNero di Troia / Montepulciano$NAStemmy and herbal on the nose with a smoky, black spice top note. Easy in the mouth with candied, slightly sweet blackberry fruits and a nice touch of tannin that keep this balanced and adds a refreshing bite on the modest finish. 87ptsAntiche Aziende Canosine2008 Mherum35% Uva di Troia, 35% Montepulciano, 15% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon$NA, $15 in ItalyRather intense on the nose with black fruit, earthy spice and light floral top notes. Feels well balanced in the mouth with aromatic spice tones in the mouth, polished yet abundant tannins, and nicely taut fruit that loses to the tannins on the modest finish. A bit modern and perhaps too extracted. 87ptsDuca Carlo Guarini2008 Burdi Rosso60% Negroamaro, 40% Primitivo$NALightly perfumed on the nose with a gently stemmy tone. Fresh and pure on entry with a bright, playful feel. The tannins are floating under the bright red fruits just adding a bit of texture. Neither big nor complicated but wonderfully drinkable. 87ptsCantina di San Marzano2009 Primitivo/Merlot 50/50$NA, $12 in ItalyDarkly fruity on the nose with medicinal notes buried in sweet coffee crema notes. Big, sweetly fruity entry is followed by a big, slightly matte mid-palate that has a slight bitterness. This is pretty intense but at the same time it’s clumsy, with drying tannins cutting the finish short. 86ptsAlberto Longo2008 Cacc’e Mmitte50% Nero di Troia, 35% Montepulciano, 15% Bombino Bianco$NA, $15 in ItalyA bit stewy on the nose, though not very fruit-driven with mostly tarry and smoky aromas. Soft and fresh in the mouth with a very juicy mid-palate full of blueberry fruit and fine follow-through. Easy drinking and pleasant. 86ptsTerre Federiciane2006 Coppa Castello70% Nero di Troia, 30% Montepulciano$NAVery wood-driven aromatics of milk chocolate, smoke, vanilla and grilled meats. Rich and dense in the mouth with lots of wild berry fruit draped in milk chocolate. It’s too heavy, thick and rich with wood tannin to drink well. Lacks any sense of finesse. 86ptsAlbea2007 Raro60% Negroamaro, 40% Primitivo$NASmoky on the nose with a dried earthy character. Round on entry with a nicely fleshy mid-palate that offers up somewhat anonymous dark fruits. 85pts2007 DuoCabernet Sauvignon / Uve di Troia, 50/50$NALightly jammy on the nose with black currant fruit accented by notes of bitter melon and exotic fruit tones. Smooth and dense in the mouth with a lightly chewy feel and limited detail in the mouth. Lots of cocoa character on the modest finish gives this some complexity but it doesn’t fulfill the promise of the nose. 85ptsCantina di San Marzano2009 Rosso CalentiniSangiovese/Negroamaro/Agliancio in equal proportions$NA, $15 in ItalyA touch of caramel sweetness on the nose tops the toasty coffee crema notes. Light on entry then turning a bit round on the mid-palate and very floral in the mouth. This seems a bit staccato on the backend, lacking integration with plenty of fruit but the acid and tannins both stick out at certain points. 84ptsConti Zecca2007 Nero70% Negroamaro, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon$19This is totally dominated by coffee and toast aromas. International and anonymous. Drying and heavily extracted in the mouth with sweet fruit cut by dense woody tones on the mid-palate. The finish is short and dominated by rigid, stiff, woody tannins. 78ptsVilla Schinosa2007 LaghiglionePrimitivo/Syrah$NA, $9 in ItalyThis smells dreadfully over-ripe and pruny. In the mouth it’s marginally better but still shows distinctly over-ripe, soft, and unpleasant. NR (hide)
