Big Pine Winery

• March 2010

  Strangely, I can't remember having Greek that much in the Bay Area. I'll have to ponder on that a bit. Maybe it has something do with the weather, since LA is so much more a Mediterannean environment? And thinking about it, I do tend to party differently in SoCal than up north. More... Read moreStrangely, I can't remember having Greek that much in the Bay Area. I'll have to ponder on that a bit. Maybe it has something do with the weather, since LA is so much more a Mediterannean environment? And thinking about it, I do tend to party differently in SoCal than up north. More Greek and Mexican restaurants, clubs and rooftop poolside bars in LA, while contrarily tapas and Chez Panisse-type meals and intellectual conversations besides fireplaces in the Bay Area. There is innertubing down the Russian River and the like, but somehow more often than not BBQs on hillsides overlooking the sea in Big Sur, Marin, Sonoma and especially anywhere from Mendocino up (rather than Malibu or Santa Barbara or Laguna or....) end up with a lot of huddling together in the wind in wool or fleece, even in summer (and beachside fires find good use all year round).  ;-)    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Bottle shock wasn't the... by dmcker

  
  

• March 2010

  Bleeeecchhhh!  Never eating pine nuts again.  Wine tastes like crap and so does everything else... hmmm.. maybe the next big diet kick is eating pine nuts so you won't want to eat/drink anything for a week! 

  Forum post in the topic Bottle shock wasn't the... by napagirl68

  
  

• February 2010

  Katieellen - I hope you know I was writing tongue in cheek earlier. Well, except the part about the heretics. But to simplify the good information that others have provided, basically you just need to remember that the French have rules and that the rules cover a number of things... Read moreKatieellen - I hope you know I was writing tongue in cheek earlier. Well, except the part about the heretics. But to simplify the good information that others have provided, basically you just need to remember that the French have rules and that the rules cover a number of things related to wine, including, in many cases, exactly what you can grow. For historical reasons, the French have a fondness for prescriptive rules in general, which is why their legal system is so different from the common law based Anglo-Saxon system. The idea of the "common man" casually deciding what to grow where, and casually succeeding or failing, as the case may be - that's not a welcome prospect. It disrupts order. So rules are created to regulate such things. Some of the rules are old, some not so old, but they exist. One advantage they offer is that because they are codified, they can be learned. Because in many cases they prescribe the grapes that are allowed, you learn which grapes are allowed where and you have an idea of what you're drinking. Thus, for reds, the "Bordeaux grapes" are the cab-related grapes. These are what the industry in Napa is based on and they are what are used in the "Meritage" blends. You posted about a Sterling meritage - that's going to include the Bordeaux grapes. The whites are basically semillion and sauv blanc. The "Rhone grapes" are those grown in the Rhone of course. Some of the most popular ones came from Spain originally, so if you think of those grapes - carinena, garnacha, monastrell, those are the big grapes of the Rhone and south France as well, with the addition of syrah. There are others, but these four are the "important" ones. In CA, the "Rhone Rangers" started to champion these grapes as alternatives to the cab family. The whites are not quite as popular in varietal bottlings, probably because Americans just don't know them as well as they do chardonnay, riesling, and sauvignon blanc. And then there are bottle shapes. The Bordeaux bottle is the long thin one, the Rhone bottle is the one that's fat at the bottom. In the US and other parts of the world many winemakers distinguish their wines by using the correlated bottles, e.g., they put their cab into the long bottle and their syrah into the one with the fat bottom, but that's not always the case and it's certainly not mandated. Burgundy is easy because it's only pinot noir and chardonnay. They also use the fat-bottom bottle. Champagne uses the same grapes. Because the juice of the grape is generally white with a few exceptions, by taking the juice w/out letting the skins soak, they can make "white" Champagne from the red pinot noir. Then there are regions with less mind-share in the US market. Places like Beaujolais, which uses a gamay grape for reds and actually chardonnay for whites. Or the Loire, which is a cool and wet kind of place, growing whites like sauv blanc, a grape called melon, and known for reds made from cabernet franc and to a lesser extent gamay or pinot noir. There are in fact many more regions, some little-known in the US, but all with their own peculiarities. Places like Savoie, Bellet, Jurancon, Buzet and so on. Since you are unlikely to find much wine from some of these regions, learn the major regions and the grapes associated and then branch out. Overlaid on each region are heirarchies. Remember that a lot of the little regions used to be kingdoms or duchys. So in Burgundy, the duke organized things one way, whereas in Savoie, it may have been organized differently. And then Napoleon added his 2 cents and the more recent influence-peddlers added theirs, and you have a real mess. Nonetheless, roughly speaking, the regions usually have some kind of class system whereby the "best" wines are given first place, the slightly lesser ones second, and so on. So if you have a hill with a little pine tree on it and the hill was designated as the top of the class, you can name your wine by your name, by your hillside, and by the general region. It might be the Katieellen Premier Level Pine Hill Napa wine. Imagine Napa and the subregions. CA is the widest category. That can be narrowed down to Napa. That can be further narrowed down to Rutherford or Oakville or Stag's Leap or Howell Mountain, and those can be further narrowed to your specific vineyard. So you can get Neal Family Vineyards Howell Mountain Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. It means everything came from their vineyard and it's at least 1400 feet high. In France they call that kind of designation an AOC or Appellation of Controlled Origin (English word order differs.) So take the Rhone for example. You can call your wine Côtes du Rhône, which just means it's from the hills of the Rhone that covers around 170 communes in the region. About half of them can call their wine Côtes du Rhône-Villages, although bewilderingly, they can't name the specific village. ! Those wines have requirements as to the "quality" of the vineyards and grapes and resulting wine. It's supposed to be more prestigious and therefore the wine can be more expensive. About 19-20 of those can call their wine Côtes du Rhône-Villages and can actually name the village. This is so prestigious, you can only imagine how desperate everyone is to be able to name the village where their wine is from. Finally, a few of them will display what is called a "cru" name, which is the name of the specific area like Chateauneuf du Pape or Gigondas. Those are of course, also Côtes du Rhône, but since it's considered a "lower" class, they don't want to be called that. In some way or another, most French regions have such stratification. Now you understand why Robert Parker became famous. Most Americans are just like you - confused about what is what. Wine was priced and sold under the simple assertion that a higher class = better wine = higher price. Somehow that didn't sit well with Americans. Your great great great great grandfather may have been a pirate who conquered a village and called himself a king. Does that mean that you today are royalty? So Parker sat down, tasted the wine blind, and announced that he liked wine B more than A and D more than either. At the time, ranking wines in this way was not appreciated because it meant that the class system was not a perfect, or even a good, indicator of quality. Times have changed in the last 30 years and perhaps Parker doesn't taste in the same way any more, but now you can understand why he became who he is. The French of course, didn't give up their systems and likely never will. Whether they're of much use to you as a consumer, or even to the producers, is an open question.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic French Wine = Confusion by GregT

  
  

• January 2010

  The Classic Wines of Montevertine Notes from a vertical tasting: 1978-2007 During my recent visit to Tuscany there were a few properties that I was unable to coordinate a visit with. Among these, I was most disappointed to have missed the chance to visit... Read more The Classic Wines of Montevertine Notes from a vertical tasting: 1978-2007 During my recent visit to Tuscany there were a few properties that I was unable to coordinate a visit with. Among these, I was most disappointed to have missed the chance to visit Montevertine. If any producer can be credited with igniting a renaissance in Tuscan wine, and I am speaking literally, Montervertine can claim that role. The wines that come from these vineyards, near Radda in Chianti, embody the natural and graceful beauty that is Sangiovese, in purezza, or deftly blended with the indigenous Canaiolo and Colorino grapes. What to expect: Montevertine The commitment to tradition at Montevertine is evident not only in their choice of blending grapes, forgoing the more popular Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that are beefing up wines throughout Tuscany, but also in virtually every step of the wine making processes. Each facet of the operation here is undertaken with a simple goal: to allow the fruit to express itself unfettered, and unencumbered, by winemaking techniques. Read about the Classic Wines of Montevertine This relatively small property, with vineyards covering some 30 plus acres, has remained true to the intentions of Founder Sergio Manetti, who sadly passed away in 2000. The original vineyard, 5 acres known as Le Pergole Torte, was planted entirely to Sangiovese by Sergio in 1968. To this day those same vines provide the fruit for Montevertine’s Flagship, the eponymous Le Pergole Torte. The other reds in the Montvertine portfolio vary little from the recipe for Pergole Torte, with each coming from a specific vineyard.  One thing you might notice is that none of these wines bear the name Chianti, though they each could.  Why you may ask? The answer is simple. In Sergio Manetti’s day Chianti was required to use a recipe that made less of a wine than Montevertine was capable of. Sergio decided at the outset to make the best wines he possible could, which meant deviating from the DOC requirements for Chianti and forgoing the prized moniker. Well, lo and behold, Chianti finally caught up with Montevertine, and while each of these wines can now be labeled as Chianti, the Manetti family has established as an exemplar of their type. Each stands on it’s own, proudly displaying it’s origins in more specific terms that Chianti ever could. Il Sodaccio for example, was (the original vineyard planted in 1972 was replanted in 2000 and we have yet to see any wines from these young vines) the most typical Chianti style blend in the line-up, included both Canaiolo and Colorino. Pian del Ciampolo and the Montevertine vineyards each are primarily planted with Sangiovese, though a small percentage, about a tenth, is reserved for Canaiolo and to a lesser extent Colorino All of the vineyards are cultivated organically and rely apon the most minimally invasive technique to produce healthy vines and complex, balanced fruit year in and year out, just try the 2002s Once the grapes are pressed, this hand off approach extends to the cellar where each wine ferments in concrete vats, without temperature control. Once the wines are racked, and the malolactic fermentation is complete, also in concrete, the wines are transferred to wood to complete their ageing. The ageing of each wine is carefully monitored and is perhaps the only aspect of the production that might be considered to have followed a trend.  The Pergole Torte not only eschews the addition of traditional blending grapes but also spends 6 months in barriques of French oak, but only after spending 18 months in the traditional, large Slavonian oak casks. Montevertine sees the same ageing regimen but does include a bit of both Colorino and Canaiolo in the blend. The demised, yet soon to return,  Il Sodaccio brought us one step closer to tradition, using both blending grapes but being aged only in large Slavonian botte. And bringing up the rear is the Pian del Ciampolo, which is produced in virtually the same way as Il Sodaccio once was. [PAGEBREAK] 2007 Pian del Ciampolo Priced from $22.97 On the palate this is young and bright with a surprisingly rich texture, and very ripe, wild berry fruits. Juicy, fine and long, this is a wonderful example of fresh Sangiovese at it’s best. 2004 Montevertine Priced from $39.99 Deep and earthy on the nose with tremendous floral tones and smoky, slightly spicy, aromas of dried berries.  This is a mouth filling wine with slightly astringent tannins that add nice grab in the mouth. So what about the wines? Well they are brilliant.   2007 Pian del Ciampolo The nose is full of earthy, waxy cranberry fruit edged with notes of pine and roast beef. On the palate this is young and bright with surprisingly rich texture and very ripe wild berry fruits. Juicy, fine and long, this is a wonderful example of fresh Sangiovese at it’s best. 88pts   2004 Montevertine Deep and earthy on the nose with tremendous floral tones and smoky, slightly spicy tones of dried berries.  This is a mouth filling wine with slightly astringent tannins that add nice grab in the mouth. Floral and dark up front with notes of hibiscus, earth, and bitter cherry on the mid-palate that lead to a long strawberry toned finish. This is a bit hard, and tightens up with air, but it exhibits all the raw materials needed to improve in the cellar. 89pts   1990 Montevertine Riserva This offers up a huge, evolved bouquets of tobacco, motor oil, butchers wax, dried basil stems, and mineral tones over a bed of jammy strawberry fruit. In the mouth this is rich and plush with a really excellent feel, wonderfully integrated and rich, red fruit that saturates the palate and leads to a tea tinged finish. I would have liked to have seen more length and complexity here but it is a wine at peak and certainly attractive. 91pts   1988 Montevertine Riserva Light and tight on the nose with subtle perfumed notes of fresh flowers, raw beef, lemon verbena, smoke, and salty, sandy notes emerging slowly in the glass. On the palate this is wonderfully precise with superb, ripe tannins framing the spicy red currant fruit. On the backend this gains weight and reveals wonderful minerality that offers contrast to the crisp, fresh red berry fruit. A leaner, more elegant expression of Sangiovese but one that is brilliantly mature, complex and engaging. 93pts   1998 Il Sodaccio Deep and fresh on the nose with lots of woody, woodsy, loamy soil tones  with hints of drying grass and cinnamon adding depth and complexity to the slightly jammy fruit.  Big and dense on the palate, and even a touch clumsy, with astringent tannins and a bit of heat on the finish.  More indicative of the vintage than the house style. There is nice fruit here but this lacks integration and balance. 88pts   1997 Il Sodaccio Deep and dark on the nose with big black cherry fruit accented by precise mineral tones, spicy anise seed and green herbal notes and top notes of smoldering soil. On the palate this is surprisingly bright and juicy with huge, ripe tannins and excellent, deep dark cherry fruit edged with slightly medicinal and floral notes. The finish shows a nice leather edge and adds interesting suggestions of dried fruit but this never looses freshness. 92pts   1990 Il Sodaccio This has just a lovely array of aromatics that range from bitter almond to sweet red cassis with notes of roasted beef, dried rose, juniper berry, forest floor and mushroom all creeping in from time to time. On entry this is deceptively opulent before the acid and slight astringency snaps everything into place and the midpalate fills with dark, ripe fruit. There is a slight drop-off on the backend and a certain leanness on the finish which makes me feel that this is best drunk soon, but the fruit powers back up on the finale showing complex of gunpowder and roasted meat.  A wine just past peak. 90pts [PAGEBREAK] Le Pergole Torte 2004 Le Pergole Torte Very balsamic on the nose and very fresh with grassy notes, a bit of terpene, and emerging floral tones. In the mouth this is very young and disjointed with edgy acids and a bit of heat on the finish. The midpalate shows some nice cherry fruit but this comes off as short, simple and lean tonight. This needs time to come together. Judgment reserved   2001 Le Pergole Torte Musky and deeply earthy on the nose with huge, yet elegant, notes of leather and black cherry and layers of minerals, spice, flowers, rain water, and subtle tones of white pepper, pickled green tomatoes, and oak.  Fresh and cool on entry with a nice forward rush of green watermelon rind set of my notes or rare beef and stemminess. This is textbook Sangiovese, tense and nervous with plump, ripe fruit set against astringent tannins and zesty acids. The finish is long if slow to build but time in the glass allows this to fill out well. Still very young but a wine that is already showing it’s grand potential. 93pts   1999 Le Pergole Torte A little bit of old wood and charcoal greets the nose and then pulls back to reveal subtle complex perfumes of ripe fruit, and spicy black pepper and licorice nuanced tones. The minerality here is striking with an almost steely note lurking under the cherry fruit. In the mouth this exhibits superb, fine tannins and sweet, transparent and precise fruit all in a silky package. The feel of this wine is so fresh and ripe and even the tannins are sweet, allowing the spicy, tarry, coriander tinged notes to set off the fruit. The finish is long and has a savory, bittersweet cocoa, incipient porcini edge to it. Grand wine indeed and one that will continue to benefit from time n the cellar. 94pts   1998 Le Pergole Torte Big, intense aromatic that lack some freshness are decidedly in the earthy, leather end of the spectrum with nice mineral tones and a toasty edge to the dark but somewhat anonymous fruit. Big and soft in the mouth with good acids that highlight the core of very ripe, dark, earthy dried fruit tones. The tannins appear on the backend and lead into the finish, which shows nice, astringent cherry pit tones. This is a fine wine but it lacks the clarity and definition of the best vintages. 89pts   1997 Le Pergole Torte The nose started out quick slowly with notes of cooked red fruits, dusty earthy tones and fresh leather notes. This may very well have just been closed but it wasn’t giving much this evening On the palate this is shows a lack of depth married to a rather aggressive structure. The mid-palate reveals some nice, spicy red currant fruit but lacks detail. The feel of the wine is very smooth, and while there is adequate acidity, the wine lacks a certain amount of vibrancy. 88pts   1995 Le Pergole Torte You can tell from the nose that this is going to be a strict wine as the bouquet is full of ash, eggshell and bone. Over that white austerity one finds lovely fruit with tobacco and roast herb notes highlighted by hints of gingerbread and mint.  With air this gains more soil tones and suggestions of shoe polish and black olive brine. In the mouth this is rich with a fine spine of astringent tannins and superb acidity that gives this tremendous cut and freshness. This is certainly austere but at the same time it has such precise and faceted fruit that it is immensely engaging, and in any event the fruit powers through on the finish adding a sweet counterpoint to the finale. 92pts   1988 Le Pergole Torte Rather evolved on the nose but giving up it’s all this evening with a fine array of dried spices, earth, sour meat, sour wild berry, and cake batter tones. A hint of VA gives this a nice bit of lift and adds to the leathery, gamy suggestions on the nose. In the mouth this is velvety and rich with a green tone to strawberry and wild raspberry fruit. On the mid-palate there is a fine, refreshing, candied watermelon rind note that leads to a vibrant finish that is driven by the great acids of this wine. The finish really gains length with air and shows wonderful spice tones and red currant fruit, which remains taut and focused. A wine that is at peak, or perhaps just past peak but really very fine. 92pt   1985 Le Pergole Torte This bottle most likely saw some excessive heat along the way as evidenced by the brothy notes on the nose and the seaweed edge to the fruit but it still showed some interest. The fruit was fresh yet dark with notes of black raspberries, and the palate was lovely with resolved tannins and good acids supporting the fruit which seemed ripe yet transparent. Nice typical notes of mineral and green anise seed made an appearance. Intact bottles of this should be excellent.   1978 Le Pergole Torte Still showing excellent fresh, wild cherry fruit on the nose with a strong underlay of tobacco and almond skins and top notes of smoke and prosciutto. On the palate this is fresh and precise with every element fading in harmony. That harmony extends throughout the mouth and into the finish making this one of the most enjoyable wines of the night. There’s great strawberry fruit on the mid-palate that exhibits a wonderful combination of sweetness and transparency. Everything just clicks into place with this wine. A great bottle of a fully mature wine. 92pts    (hide)

  From the article Tasting the wines of Montevertine

  
  

• December 2009

  Our End of Year Round-up Great Domestic Cabernet and Merlot Reviewed Just in time for the holidays our rundown of current release Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, in two parts. Cabernet Sauvignon My top scoring wine among these is the Malk, though the Trinitas offered alot of wine... Read moreOur End of Year Round-up Great Domestic Cabernet and Merlot Reviewed Just in time for the holidays our rundown of current release Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, in two parts. Cabernet Sauvignon My top scoring wine among these is the Malk, though the Trinitas offered alot of wine for a very price. Ultimately my personal choice among these wines is the Sausal. It's a classic old school style of California Cabernet bursting with ripe fruit and subtle notes of American oak. I love California Cabernet because it can be so fun to drink and the Sausal wins that race hands down in this group. The Montevina gets honorable mention for it's value.   2006 Malk Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon  Black olive, black currant, intensely aromatic, milk chocolate, roast beef, lots of paprika and coriander spices.  Like velvet on entry, good acidy very well concealed tannins, tons of plush, vanilla and cinnamon scented fruit. This is super refined, very fresh and a fruit bomb without the fat and weight of most fruit bombs.  This is very easy to drink with a broadly appealing style and a structure that is soft enough to allow this to be enjoyed on it’s own but substantial enough to benefit from food. Really nice length on the fruity, spicy finish. 94pts   2006 Trintas Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Intense yet fine with plenty of oak but strong black currant, tomato leaf , licorice, vanilla and mint tones.  Lovely mouthfeel, rigid with a touch of woody sweetness and wonderfully pure fruit. The tannins are modest and a touch stiff but in proportion and well balanced allowing the pure fruit tones to take center stage. This is not a powerhouse but a well balanced, well focused bottle of cab that recalls some of the classic wines of the 80’s and shows very little sign of the formidable 14.9% alcohol.  93pts.   2006 Cliff Lede Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon Lots of chili and grassy notes on the nose over note of vanilla, toast, cocoa, and crème de cassis notes.  This is a bit cold in the mouth, tight and angry at being opened but with an emerging edge of fresh fruitiness. The tannins are refined, if copious with a really rich core of red and black berry fruit.  Compressed on the finish as well but you can feel the fruit trying to break out through the finish. Quite a minty finale. This will definitely benefit from some time in the cellar but is well equipped to emerge a very complete wine in 2-4 years time.  92pts   2005 Kenwood Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon Restrained and slightly herbaceous with integrated oak notes well balanced by the slightly vegetal, cauliflower and floral scented notes that contrast against the ripe red currant, red raspberry fruit. The oak is a touch too prominent on the nose at this point.  Rather seamless on entry, deceptively so. On the mid-palate this begins to reveal lively acidity that is intertwined with the ripe, juicy, wild black raspberry fruits. The oak is well integrated and offers lots of accent on the palate with herbal top notes and a touch of eucalyptus appearing on the backend.  This finishes a touch short but with nice purity to the flavors. 92pts   2005 Sausal Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon A wonderfully fruit driven nose with deep, smoky, dried chili notes, leafy ripe black currant fruit, hints of black olive, leather, dill, and crushed flowers and just the faintest traces of oaken spice.  A bit light on the palate with fresh red fruits topped with green herbs and sweet bell pepper tones. This lacks some of the complexity found on the nose but offers up a refreshingly pure mouthful of slightly minty, slightly herbaceous, coffee tinged, unabashedly Cabernet fruit and finishes with the fuzzy mouthgrab of fruit tannin.  91pts   2006 Lionheart Wines Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Big and sweet on the nose but with layered and complex notes of smoke, chipotle, black fruit, leather, dried grass and musk and soil tones.  Big, rich and soft with a chocolate toned dark dried cherry fruitiness that supported by good acids and plenty of fine-grained tannins.  Finishes with good focus, this is a bit in a rough and tumble style but has good length and a distinct character. Tannins build on the finish so this should benefit from a year or two in the cellar. 90pts   2004 St. Supery Napa Cabernet Sauvignon The nose is soft and subtle yet full of earthy, tobacco, spiced roasted plum and cherry fruit.  This is lovely in the mouth with an elegant mouthfeel based around fine tannins. The wood element is still obvious but in balance with the fresh slightly jolly rancher sweet and sour wild grape note on the palate.  Turns a touch drying on the finish but carries the fruit through to the finale with a nice consistency 90pts   [PAGEBREAK]   2005 Tangley Oaks Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Lot 9 Warm with licorice, , herb, eucalyptus, and spiced plum cake notes.  This is soft and fruity in the mouth with nice acids lending this some freshness and supporting the cranberry and red currant fruit notes.  The tannins pop out on the finish a bit but remain restrained giving this an elegance on the back end which shows a bit more dark, black currant fruit notes. A very fruit forward style of wine. 88pts   2006 Oriel Midnight Rambler Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon Rather fruit driven, yet restrained, on the nose with a nice bouquet of slightly herbaceous and slightly candied blackberry fruits with wood spice tones playing a supporting role.  A little light bodied with bright, acid driven flavors of slightly baconny black raspberries with an edge of vanilla and lots of milk chocolate and cherry on the finish. Nicely proportioned if smaller scaled. 88pts   2007 Going Forward Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Big, sweet in your face style of cabernet with a touch of smoked chili accenting the black currant, tobacco and cocoa dotted fruit. Has a hint of green floral character with some pencil lead. Medium bodied and fairly sharp in the mouth with leafy black currant fruit, modest, juicy tannins and nicely integrated acidity. Bright, fruit and a touch drying on the finish but bright and fresh. 88pts   2007 Go Figure Napa Valley  Cabernet Lot 4 Soft and subdued on the nose with smoke, herb and black currant notes.  A little sweet perhaps but very smooth and rich with an easy, simple style but nice fresh note of black fruit with a touch of spicy oak and vanilla adding some detail. Finishes a bit on the lean side but with good intensity to the dark flavors. 87pts   2005 Arbois Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon   Eucalyptus and minty herb nose is very aggressive with all sorts of chilies, olive and oak tones over the lightly baked black fruit tones. Big on entry then turning a bit leaner with plenty of acid accenting the hard, olivy, dry earthy, toasty mid-palate. There’s some nice red currant fruits intermixed on the palate but this is a very tannic and dry wine 86pts   2007 Montevina California Cabernet Sauvignon Spicy red currants, green bell pepper, chipotle and herbs on the nose, with a little watermelon fruitiness.  Easy and fruity with fresh red flavors that recall watermelon jolly ranchers, vanilla, and candied red cherry. This is lightish bodied, with some astringency from the tannins but that adds a nice freshness to the fruit. The finish is short and simple but that’s what this is all about.  85pts   2008 The Crusher Wilson Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Smells intensely of oak, tobacco, tea, pine and plum. Very smooth and easy in the mouth with a simple, bright personality that highlights the balsam tinged, slightly candied purple and blue fruits.  A bit snappy on the backend with high acid and slightly astringent tannins but a fair amount of wine for the price. 85pts   2006 Hess Allomi Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon   Shoe polish, bay leaf, small black fruits, oak, roasted herbs, thyme all are layered on the nose.  This is smooth and rich but also hollow. There’s plenty of extract to work with but this is either closed or just remarkably lifeless with plenty of ripe fruit flavors that just sit on your tongue. The finish is drying and tannic, if very chocolaty and long.  84pts   2008 Round Hill California Cabernet Sauvignon Light aromatics are smoky and slightly caramelly with a hard, chemical edge to them and a bit of struck match. Very light and fluid in the mouth with some rustic tannins and a modest amount of red fruit. Not much to this but it’s well made and perfectly acceptable wine, if a bit tough and not particularly varietal. 82 pts   2005 Toasted Head Alex Valley Cabernet Sauvignon   Rotting wood, old barrel, burnt sugar, with lots of vegetal, pepper and tomato notes underneath.  Rather easy in the mouth with a bbq sauce, ketchupy quality to the wine. Acid seems elevated, tannin non-existent on the palate but a little clingy on the lightly fruity finish. 77pts  [PAGEBREAK]   Merlot   Among these Merlots it’s no surprise that the Duckhorn was the star of the tasting, they have a long history excelling with merlot. The surprise of the tasting was the lovely little wine from New York State’s Fox Run. A small scaled and austere wine, it nonetheless was balanced and fresh with bright red fruit. Atypical for Merlot, but simply too fun and zesty to ignore. The Alexander valley Vineyards was another great wine and one that offers real value at its price point. 2006 Duckhorn Merlot Black cherry, vanilla, tobacco leaf, herbs, earth, and a touch of French oak are all nicely balanced.  This is seamless on entry with excellent purity of black cherry fruit. The acidity creeps up on you a little but the fruit is very precise and fresh with lovely suggestions of herb and tomato with fine shadings of cigarbox and cedar.  This is refined and elegant with excellent length in a surprisingly fresh and juicy style that really highlights the red fruits. 93pts 2005 Matanzas Creek Bennett Valley Merlot Herbal and decidedly earthy on the nose with espresso foam, toasted caraway, dill and a hint of toasted coconut over the base of black cherry fruit.  This is certainly well structured in the mouth with fairly prominent and slight dry tannins that keep this leaner styled wine focused across the palate. The flavors are complex and the inner mouth perfume quite assertive with spice, herb and vanilla tinged red berry fruit tone. The fruit really pops on the backend and into the finish though this is and I expect will always remain an austere style of Merlot. This has excellent length but this is far from your typical California Merlot. 91pts   2006 Alexander Valley Vineyards Wetzel Family Vineyard Merlot Tobacco, earth, smoke, dried flowers and plum on the nose.  Really fresh on entry with soft tannins and bright acidity supporting lightly smoky, cedar edged red plum and pomegranate fruits with note of shaved bittersweet chocolate, coffee and candied raspberries adding nice top notes. The tannins turn a touch drying and aggressive with time, though they can easily be tamed with some time in bottle or decanter. The finish is long and caressing with a layered feel and lovely, fresh fruit tones. This has compelling freshness and a lightness across the palate that makes it very appealing.  90pts   2006 Ethos Merlot from Ch. Ste. Michelle Deep tobacco, coffee, date, dried cherry, mint and perfumed French oak tones. This is rich and super polished with fresh acidity and substantial, but integrated tannins giving this a plush feel. The fruits are on the darker end of the spectrum with noticeable oak influenced flavors of chocolate, baking spices and cedar, but this still retains good balance.  The finish shows more freshness with spiced plum notes but it’s also suffering compression from the load of wood tannin. A big, suave wine that may hold broad appeal but for me this is just a bit too polished and too oaked. 90pts   2006 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Vineyard Merlot This is all dark cocoa, coffee, prune and plum fruit on the nose with a backing of sweet oaky spice, and surprising freshness, considering the aromas.  Full, rich and smooth on the palate with nice heft, and lusciously ripe fruit that is well supported by ripe tannins and integrated acidity. The flavors are much like the aromas, a bit on the darker end of the spectrum with the spice tones from the oak being a bit more prominent.  The finish shows more of the dark fruit note with cigarbox, milk chocolate, and tobacco notes and a suggestion of sweetness.  If the flavors sound appealing this is a nice wine for you. 89pts   2005 Rutherford Hill Napa Valley Merlot Well-balanced aromas of freshly sawn wood, vanilla, crushed berries and juniper give this a woodsy nose.  This has the rich attack and ultra smooth feel that many people look for in Merlot. The wood is well integrated on the palate adding only chocolate and mocha notes to the rich black plum fruit. There’s a bit of spice on the back end and into the finish, which is on the shorter side. Fruity and easy drinking 88pts   [PAGEBREAK] 2007 Blackstone Limited Release Sonoma Valley Merlot Light tobacco and nilla wafer notes greet the nose with hightones of gingery oak spice framing the cherry fruit.  This is a bit light on the palate with a bit of a loose feel with very soft tannins, though there is plenty of acidity. The fruit is a bit on the candied side with a sweet raspberry and red plum core that has notes of mint and chocolate adding interest. The tannins gain traction on the backend and through the moderately long candied red fruit, mint and coffee tinged finish. 87pts   2005 Toasted Head Merlot Very sharp bitter cocoa, red cherry, toast, and dried tarragon notes on the nose.  This is decidedly medium bodied with a bright acid driven spice and soft tannins enmeshed in red, slight astringent fruits that recall cranberry and red currant more than they dark fruits typically associated with merlot.  Fresh and crisp in the mouth if a touch austere with a light vanilla overlay that leads to a wild cherry finish with hints of graham cracker and white chocolate.  I would not guess this to be merlot, but I like it for what it is.  87pts.   2006 Parducci Mendocino Merlot This smells a bit leathery and earthy with some damp coffee grounds balancing the black cherry fruit that has a touch of a menthol top note.  A bit dense in the mouth but at the same time this is smooth with nice intensity to the flavors. A distinct coffee tone in the mouth with nice chewy red plum fruits and hints of sweet baking spices lead to a somewhat short, yet refreshing finish with a hint of raspberry on toast for the finale. 87pts   2006 Fox Run Finger Lakes Merlot Ashy and rocky and slightly animal on the nose with old, cold coffee tones and hints of amarena cherry.  On entry this offers some nice, ripe fruit in the red end of the spectrum. The tannins shows just a hint of astringency working well with the bright but integrated acidity giving this a fresh, bright feel that supports the light cherry fruit. It’s a touch herbal and austere going into the finish but is clean and brisk with good length to the slightly vegetal, red berry fruits. Zingy and fresh.  86pts   2007 Frei Brothers Dry Creek Valley Merlot Reserve Sweet woods tones, a touch herbal and earthy though with a strong coffee/mocha element and smoked meat notes.  This is attractively silky in the mouth with fine, slightly granular tannins that give this a bit of textural detail. The flavors are a bit on the oaky side with a touch of caramel to the coffee tinged dark plum fruits. It’s pretty much textbook Merlot, nothing out of place though it finishes a bit short it’s made in a crowd pleasing style. 86pts   2007 Smoking Loon California Merlot There’s an off-putting hint of turpentine on the nose but other wise this has the typical cocoa tinged black fruits with clovey oak notes of most Merlot.  Fairly rich in the mouth and well balanced with fresh, if simple red fruits. The turpentine shows up as a top note of refreshing balsam.  This shows good balance and nice varietal character. 86pts   2004 Perrucci Santa Cruz Mountain Merlot Red apples, dried meat, damp cigar butt and a touch of barnyard all join together in this slightly volatile and rustic nose.  Rich and smooth on the palate, with lovely structure. There are lovely ripe tannins here and bright acids supporting very fresh and admirably precise spiced plum fruits with tar, melon rind, and anise seed accents. There’s not much on the finish besides the acids but this still has some intriguing notes. 85pts   2008 The Crusher Wilson Vineyard Merlot Toasty, earthy, big black cherry, big fruit, a fair amount of wood, lot’s of sweet scents. Though the charry oak is pretty much slathered on.  Medium bodied with sweetness on entry to the red fruits that are followed across the palate by toast, spicy wood tones that add a touch of coffee bean bitterness to the fruit. A good bit of acid refreshes the back end but there is something a bit coarse and tough about this wine even though it delivers a fair amount of candied red and black fruits. 84pts   2008 Round Hill Merlot Leafy, green herby, green tomato and sawdust on the nose.  This is a touch sweet on entry and across the palate but the sugar gives this some volume in the mouth, and balances the acids and slightly rough tannins. Rather neutral on the palate with green tomato and slight wood tones. Drying on the finish. This is a little coarse and rustic, and tastes little like Merlot but is an acceptable table wine that I would consider for hot dogs and hamburgers. 83pts    (hide)

  From the article 2009 Cabernet and Merlot Round Up

  
  

• December 2009

  Tasting Wines in Chianti Classico New releases from Volpaia, Monsanto, and Castellare Volpaia: it takes a village, no seriously. The Castello di Volpaia estate is one of the most remarkable wineries I have ever visited. Now, granted I was there in the... Read more Tasting Wines in Chianti Classico New releases from Volpaia, Monsanto, and Castellare Volpaia: it takes a village, no seriously. The Castello di Volpaia estate is one of the most remarkable wineries I have ever visited. Now, granted I was there in the off-season, but driving up the rather winding road to the hilltop enclave, it’s really not much more than a ring of buildings protecting the inner Castello, can leave you a little perplexed. At the end of the road you arrive in a small Piazza with a bar on one side, and a rather imposing tower on the other. Fortunately the Piazza is small, so it doesn’t take much wandering to figure out that tower is the retail sales room for Volpaia, the sign on the transom window being a dead give away, if remarkably subtle indication.  Once you’ve discovered the sales office, which was closed at the time of my visit, you might be left wondering where the winery actually is. Chances are your standing on it, next to it or in it! What to expect: Chianti Chianti is a large region that produces a wide range of wine styles. From basic Chianti, to the finest Riservas, some elements of the wines remain consistent. Chianti is based on the Sangiovese grape, which typically yields a medium bodied wine with strawberry and cherry fruits that are accented by delicate notes of green herbs, dusty soil, leather, and spice. While Chianti can be produced exclusively from Sangiovese, the vast majority of Chianti includes a small percentage of other grapes. Traditional varieties like Mammolo, Colorino, and Canaiolo were used to add some flesh and aromatic complexity to Chianti, though many producers now include some Merlot, adding fruit and richness, or Cabernet Sauvignon, which contributes power and dark fruit flavors, to their wines. Learn more about Chianti Castello Di Volpaia Volpaia is a fantastically preserved and renovated Italian village of medieval origins. The Stianti family, owners of Castello di Volpaia, have painstakingly restored much of the village and converted it to their winery while preserving all the architectural details and appearances that takes one back to a simpler way of life. It’s really amazing how one finds the offices of the winery tucked into an alleyway that runs through the heart of the old Castello, or the ageing cellars, spread out as they are, in the basements of the crypt of an ancient chapel. In fact virtually every element of the operations here has been seamlessly integrated into the existing structures, though when additional space was needed for a more modern bottling line the family did spring for a new addition to the village. Thing is, it’s tough to tell where that could possibly be.  Ok, it’s the building in the center of the photo below. The passion of the Stinati family shows in their dedication to this small village. It’s almost impossibly difficult to work with in the rules and regulations imposed by the Italian government, especially when it comes to the repurposing of historic structures, but the Stianti do what they must to maintain the character and charm of Volpaia the village, just as they do what they must to maintain the character and style of Volpaia’s wines. Volpaia focuses on a rather traditional line-up of wines that includes their Bianco, the straight Chianti Borgianni, as well as a Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Reserva.  In addition there are two Super Tuscan styled wines; Coltassala, which is based on Sangiovese with a touch of Mammolo added and the more internationally styled Balifico which adds Cabernet Sauvignon to the Sangiovese. And of course there is a Vin Santo, that iconic Tuscan dessert wine produced from air-dried grapes, in this case Trebbiano and Malvasia. Volpaia’s style is dictated as much by the cool climate the vineyards enjoy at the relatively high elevations the slopes leading up to the village (some 250 to 450 meters above sea level) as it is by the winemaking style of the house. The fruit these cool, rocky vineyards yield is never among the richest or densest in Chianti, though they are among the most perfumed. The terroir here favors warmer vintages and the galestro-laden soil is able to drain away water fairly quickly so damp is not usually an issue. In cooler vintages ripening can be a challenge though. Ultimately the winemaking style is rather middle of the road here as the owners try and preserve the freshness of the wines without imposing too much of a stylistic imprint. They truly do want the wines to speak of Volpaia, and considering the obvious financial and emotional investment the family has made here, that is not at all surprising. [PAGEBREAK] The Wines of Castellare 2008 Volpaia Bianco 40% Sauvignon Blanc + 60% Chardonnay This has a nose dominated by sweet, pear rich, Chardonnay fruit with a touch of floral/herbal Sauvignon Blanc high tones. With air this reveals a nice chalky minerality and the fruit rounds out with a nice white peach note. On entry this is a touch soft and chardonnay dominated but gains a nice sweet pea flower tone on the mid-palate where it gains a nice snap and leads to a mineral flecked backend and finish with notes of pea shoot, apple and cashew. A bit different but well balanced blend. 87pts   2007 Volpaia Chianti Classico Crushed flowers and bruised berry tones great the nose with a hint of spice and suggestion of tarry, jammy sweetness. In the mouth this is pretty bright with a touch of astringency from the youthful tannins. It’s medium weight across the palate with crisp wild strawberry and currant fruits with lovely herbal and floral inner mouth perfume. The finish is a touch short and is showing some green walnut tones. Needs a bit of time to better integrate but is quite a typical Chianti Classico. 86pts   2005 Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva This has a strong, hard scent with big soil tones and a light underlay of smoke and cool, crisp lichen and mossy notes but not showing a lot of fruit at this point. Chewy and a bit soft in the mouth with some peachy tannins across the mid-palate that adds a nice accent to the black raspberry fruit. There’s a nice sweetness on the finish and this is well balanced but neither complex nor particularly deep. 87pts   2005 Volpaia Coltassala Light aromatic tones on the nose with a touch of wood spice. In the mouth there’s good fruit with nice stemmy, strawberry top tones up front balanced by cigar box notes that add some sweetness to the fruit across the mid-palate. The fruit lacks some definition though the finish is juicy and crisp with slightly under-ripe strawberry tones. This has good length and is youthful and nervous but will never be a blockbuster. 90pts   2005 Volpaia Balifico The nose is tight but shows nice depth to the black fruits and integrated oak tones. In the mouth this is very smooth with moderately intense, somewhat brambly, blackberry tones supported by modest tannins. On the mid-palate there’s a hint of herbaciousness and slightly peppery red currant fruit that carry a cinnamon note on to the finish. The finish shows more tannic presence and if moderately long with a nice freshness to the flavors. An easy and bright Balifico. 89pts 2007 Prelius Morellino di Scansano The first vintage of Prelius, a new property recently purchased by the Stianti family, owners of Tuscany’s Castello di Volpaia. Woodsy and herbal on the nose with a dark, plummy core of fruit framed by chocolate, and smoky oak tones. Very broad in the mouth with a slightly chewy feel and a pulpy quality to the black fruit tones. There are hints of violet and olive leaf in the mouth with dark black and blue fruits across the mid-palate and onto the slightly drying finish. A masculine and modern styled expression of Sangiovese. 89pts [PAGEBREAK] Explore the regions of Chianti and learn about each distinctive style Castello di Monsanto In Barberino Val D'Elsa The Castello di Monsanto produces one of Chianti’s iconic wines: Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio. From the estate’s inception, in the early 1960’s, the goal of the Bianchi family was to produce the finest wines possible. Follow this link to ead more about Monsanto, and see the notes on their wines. Castellare di Castellina In Castellina I have a lot of favorite Tuscan wines, so it’s hard to single any one out in particular though the wines of Castellare di Castellina do have to take credit for some of my earliest experiences with Sangiovese based wines. Follow this link to read more about Castellare, and see the notes on their wines. Castello di Monsanto The Castello di Monsanto produces one of Chianti’s iconic wines: Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio. From the estate’s inception, in the early 1960’s, the goal of the Bianchi family was to produce the finest wines possible. Whether that required the clearing and planting of the ideally situated parcel of land that was to become the Il Poggio vineyard, or the forward thinking move (anticipating the changes of laws) of eliminating the white grapes that were a required elements of the Chianti blend at the time, the Bianchi’s were prepared to do whatever it took to bring their vision to market. That drive has never abated. The recent completion of a state of the art cellar addition, expanding upon the additions of 1981 and 1986, has given Monsanto the room to grow, and continue the traditions of excellence they have established over the past decades. It’s refreshing to see that these traditions include both the old and the new as giant oak botti rest side by side with new barriques in the extensive underground cellars of Monsanto. A more recent, and even more pleasant sight for my eyes, are the rows of tonneaux, an ever more common sight in Tuscany, that fill some of the side alleys of the cavernous cellar. Like many Tuscan producers, Monsanto is finding that this medium sized ageing vessel allows Sangiovese, in particular, the perfect exposure to oxygen, helping to soften and round off the tannins, while limiting the affects of the oak on the finished wine. The results are wines that pick up less of a tannic edge from the oak while incorporating a judicious touch of wood induced spicy accents. These accents pair well with the wine’s inherent notes of soil, minerals, herbs and the classic red fruits of Sangiovese. Like much of the region the soils here are full of galestro, the compressed and fossilized layers of clay that formed the floor of an ancient sea that covered the area. There are varying levels of galestro among the 200 or so acres of Monsanto’s vineyards but a small, exposed panel of soil deep in the cellars helps one to understand the special properties of galestro. These rock hard layers are actually composed of many flakes of clay that cleave apart quite readily. What appears to be solid rock can, in fact be split by some of the finest root tendrils of the vine. This characteristic allows the vines to dig deeply through these seemingly impervious layers of soil, while preventing the soil from becoming water logged in wet conditions. It’s no surprise that these soils have been found to be ideal for grape production, and that they produce both long lived and particularly complex wines. Some of that complexity no doubt is derived from the native yeast strains used for the fermentation of all the red wines of the estate. One of the most surprising aspects of the Monsanto cellars is the deep stocks of old vintages the estate maintains. Many small rooms hold stocks of wines from some of the greatest vintages of the past four decades, and a few precious bottles of the inaugural 1962 Chianti Classico Il Poggio. To say that the Bianchi Family has faith in the ability of their wines to improve in the cellars may be a bit of an understatement. The wines of Monsanto continue to follow a traditional path, with the expected exceptions. By that I mean that the classic wines, the various Chianti bottlings, all rely on Sangiovese with additions of the traditional blending grapes Canaiolo and Colorino. The exceptions are the estate’s Bianco, which is 100% Chardonnay, and their Super Tuscan; the Cabernet Sauvignon Nemo. There is also a 100% Sangiovese produced at Monsanto that has a great track record for ageing, the Fabrizio Bianchi bottling.  First produced in 1974, the Fabrizio Bianchi is one of the original barrique aged 100% Sangiovese Super Tuscans, and while it has flown under most people’s radars it’s a wine worth looking out for. I love this expression of Sangiovese and have enjoyed bottlings as far back as the 1983. The vineyard for this cuvee was replanted over the years so there was a break in production but the label will be returning to the marketplace soon with the release of the 2006, a wine I look forward to trying. [PAGEBREAK] The Wines of Monsanto 2005 Monsanto Bianco This 100% Chardonnay was aged for 6 months in 500 liter tonneaux before being aged for 2 years in bottle. It’s full of integrated toasted almond and vanilla bean notes on the nose that rise above the core of lemon cream fruits. It’s fairly oaky but neither raw nor totally dominant on the nose.  On the palate the oak is more noticeable in the creamy character it lend s the mouth feel. This is rich with a fine depth of fruit on the mid-palate which shows notes of pears and peaches with a backing note of wood before showing a hint of orange peel and almond cream on the back end. The acids really snap into place on the finishes giving this a nice fresh finale with a touch of grapefruit pith adding contrast. This is a fine expression of Chardonnay for those wanting a little more freshness in their wine but not yet ready to give up the character of barrel ageing. 89pts 2006 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 90% Sangiovese/ 10% Canaiolo and Colorino Aged in Barrique, 25% of which were new. This is intensely aromatic with a strong rosemary/balsamic note that adds a lovely counterpoint to the red currant and candied red raspberry fruit tones. There are top notes of violet pastille and a whisper of vanilla adding gentle edges to the fruit.  On the palate this has the classic rush of Sangiovese acids followed by juicy, wild strawberry fruit flecked with earth, herbs and mineral tones. There’s a slight roast meat savoriness to the mid-palate, with finely textured tannins adding some nice weight to the slightly under-ripe strawberry tones of the back end. This gains a little creaminess on the finish but end with a nice snap. 92pts 2003 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio The last vintage aged exclusively in barrique, 50% of which were new, 50% second passage. The nose here is deep and gamy with sour tones, yet full of spicy backed black cherry notes. With air this gains a n herbal edge and a deep veal reduction tone that has an impression of sweetness.  Rich on entry with plenty of glycerine and then rather dry tannins this offers a rather curious combination of very ripe fruits and unripe tannins with some more wood tannins tacked on at the end. Then fruit gains some black raspberry tones on the finish, which is tannic and tough, before ending on notes of leather and mint. I’m not sure this is going to actually improve in the cellar as the tannins seem much more durable than the fruit. 86pts 2003 Monsanto Nemo 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 100% new barrique Adult candy, that’s what this smells like. It’s got a nice hint of underbrush followed by ripe black currant fruits edged in pencil lead and herbs in a cool, precise register. On the palate this is rich but not unctuous with a seamless fell that carries the dense fruit effortlessly across the palate. The ripe fruit tones are framed with slightly spicy notes of cinnamon and cigar box on the back end.  This has exceptional balance, nothing sticks out, there is no excess fat or weight and no sign of the heat of the vintage. It’s still youthful so there is a touch of tannin to resolve and the finish ends with a bit more oak spice than I would like but that should all work itself out in after a year or three in the cellar.  While I am not usually a fan of Tuscan Cabernet this ranks among the best of its type. 94pts 1995 La Chimera Vin Santo This is the end of a long line of Monsanto Vin Santos as the estate has chosen to move to the Sangiovese based Occhio di Pernice style of Vin Santo. I can’t wait to try theirs! Quite oxidative at first with a rich layered caramel, toffee and burnt marshmallow nose. With air nuanced notes of dried apricot, toasted pine nuts and bitter orange peel emerge adding real depth and complexity to the nose. On the palate this is big, thick and unctuous with huge sugars and acids giving this very sweet wine excellent balance.  The flavors tend to the bitter end of the spectrum with notes of coffee, apricot pit, and burnt orange peel alleviating some of the unrelenting sweetness of the wine and then there’s a nice spicy note on the backend that shakes everything up and eases the mid-palate tension. The finish is long and quite evolved with notes of tobacco, molasses and dried figs. A powerful and complex Vin Santo. 93pts [PAGEBREAK] Castellare in Castellina I have a lot of favorite Tuscan wines so it’s hard to single any one out in particular though the wines of Castellare di Castellina do have to take credit for some of my earliest experiences with Sangiovese based wines. It must have been the birds on the labels that attracted me; we all know how well critter wines sell. Maybe I was using those birds to make some sort of esoteric connection to the land. If these guys like birds they must like the land too! Who knows and I don’t recall but I do know that some of those earliest examples of Castellare, and their I Sodi bottling in particular, alerted my to the heights that Sangiovese based wines could achieve. It’s not surprising then that the vineyards of Castellare, ranging from the hills under Castellina and extending out from under the winery some ways from the village were among the most attractive I had seen in Tuscany. The weather was a bit overcast during my visit but the warmth of this meso-climate was made obvious by the extent to which the vines still retained their brightly colored leaves.  I may have been a week or two late to see the fall foliage at it’s peak but this display absolutely captivated me. The estate, or more appropriately estates, of Castellare spread across some 80 hectares of land, with 33 under vine. The vineyards occupy the best sights in a naturally southeast facing amphitheatre. The estates center around the I Sodi di San Niccolo and Il Poggiale in addition to the more expansive portions of the property that supply the base wines in the estate’s portfolio. These vineyards produce exceptional fruit due to their exposition and fine-layered soils with a balance between the famous galestro of the region, well draining marls and water retaining clays. The birds featured on their labels highlight the estate’s dedication to this environment. I was on to something afterall! In an effort to raise awareness about the impact of industry on the environment Castellare features threatened species of birds on their labels and is committed to practicing agriculture free of pesticides and herbicides in an effort to prevent further impact on the natural fauna. Their banning of hunting on the estate has further served to redevelop the complexity and harmony of their native biotope. This preservationist mindset extends from the vineyards and into the cellars. Castellare has been at the forefront of distilling all that was good about traditional Chianti, yet was tossed aside with the winemaking revolution of the 1980’s. In particular their dedication to the Malvasia Nera grape as a partner for Sangiovese and their use of the governo process stand as two milestones in their efforts to take what was great about Chianti and bring it into the modern world. The Chianti of old, in those great Fiaschi, were frequently thin, lean wines but there was a process, called governo, that added a layer of depth and richness to some wines.  The governo process is much like the ripassa process used in the making of Valpolicella. Once the base wines is fermented, the governo process adds dried grapes to the wine and starts a slower second fermentation that not only add some alcoholic strength to the wine, but contribute a layer of dried fruit and spice notes that turns a simple Chianti into something fun, and just a little special. The use of Malvasia Nera, once a somewhat common addition to Chianti, is a rarity these days. The fruit and aromatics the grape adds to the final blend give wines made with Malvasia a distinctive and complex note that sets them apart from more typical blends. Like almost all estates in Tuscany these days, at least it seems that way; Castellare has a classic line-up as well as wines made with more international varieties. The classic wines, Chianti Classico and Riservas are all traditional blends, adding accents of Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo. The winemaking is fairly traditional, though barriques are used here with some enthusiasm. While I am generally barrique averse I have to say they are deftly managed here. The I Sodi is somewhat of a bridge wine, using a traditional blend (the Sangioveto clone of Sangiovese and Malvasia Nera) that sees a fair amount of new barrique. Beyond I Sodi one finds Cabernet Sauvignon (Coniale), several white wines, and one of the best Merlots of Tuscany (Poggio ai Merli), which is saying a lot. [PAGEBREAK] The Wines of Castellare 2007 Castellare Chianti Classico Aged in third passage barrique This has a wonderful purity to the sweet, slightly candied notes of barely ripe crushed raspberries with hints of medicinal roots, flowers and bay leaves adding contrast. In the mouth this exhibits a light to medium bodied feel and is very fruit driven with a core of black currant and raspberry fruit that exhibits excellent cut and focus. There are hints of underbrush and herbs on the palate that show up on the big, pure finish with fruit that’s just a touch chunky and an almost spicy note of green anise seeds on the finale. A lovely wine, full and fresh. 90pts 2006 Castellare Chianti Classico Riserva Also aged in third passage barrique The nose here exhibits bright cherry fruit with background notes of moss and worn wood with mineral and licorice highlights. In the mouth the first thing one notices are the super fine, polished tannins that give this an elegant and balanced feel. The red currant fruit is buoyed by the bright acids and has a lovely hint of astringency that keeps everything fresh and dynamic in the mouth. The fruit gains more wild cherry accents with air and reveals big mineral and pressed flower notes that lead to a rich, earthy finish.  A complete and suave Chianti. 92pts 2003 I Sodi di San Niccolo Aged for 2 years in barrique, 75% new, followed by  2 years in bottle Slightly jammy on the nose, but exhibiting a chalky dryness as well with notes of roast meat and dried medicinal roots. With air this gains some focus with a touch of celery and hints of rosewood and quinine. The fruit remains pretty jammy and black with refreshing notes of mint and minerals offering some relief from the darkness.  In the mouth this is rich and chewy with solid acids and a fairly tannic profile. It’s got plenty of fruit to buffer the tannins and gains a bit of a peppery tone from the wood that works well with the wine’s innate sweetness. The finish is moderately long with notes of burnished cherry and bitter melon rind that are highlighted by a touch of raspy mouthgrab.  This is definitely a frontloaded wine and may reveal better length in time but is not among the finest I Sodis. 89pts 2004 I Sodi di San Niccolo There’s something a touch funky on the nose here with a very smoky and minerally profile that recalls bacon fat and ashes but there’s also plenty of sweet fruit and even a hint of apricot glaze.  In the mouth this is elegant and very refined with big, black cherry fruit that’s tight and wound up. There are lovely, nuanced notes of sandalwood, dried citrus rinds and herbs in the mouth but the tannins really clamp down on the finish. Nonetheless the core of fruit is just so pretty, faceted, and ripe that this is certain to benefit from several years aging.  94pts 2003 Poggio ai Merli 100% Merlot that sees 18 months in barrique (2/3’s new) followed by 18 months in bottle. Cocoa, milk chocolate and plum aromas explode from the glass followed by some noticeably woody sweetness and layers of cigar box, green tobacco, red apple, lime peels, and fudge notes. This certainly has some aromatic fireworks and the palate follows them well with a silky and bright feel that supports deep, red plum fruits dusted in bittersweet cocoa tones. The wood is a bit obvious still but well integrated though the cigarbox tones do take control on the finish. The finish is quite long and nice acids keep everything moving along though this has a slightly rustic edge it’s a great success for the vintage. 93pts   Did you miss the first articles in this series? Find them here. Part one: Arrival and Montalcino Part Two: Getting settled in Greve    (hide)

  From the article Italy in Nine Parts. Chianti

  
  

• September 2009

  Thanks for the input ... Napa is definitely Cab heavy so you're headed to the right place. Places I would recommend: - Silver Oak as others have said ... they are bit heavy on the oak for me but are pretty full body reds - Viader - more focus on Cab Franc which is nice and have... Read moreThanks for the input ... Napa is definitely Cab heavy so you're headed to the right place. Places I would recommend: - Silver Oak as others have said ... they are bit heavy on the oak for me but are pretty full body reds - Viader - more focus on Cab Franc which is nice and have wines at both your price points. Their DARE label is a little more accessible. - Pine Ridge - Across from Stags Leap Cellars is a nice option to the traditional name in the Stags Leap District - Larkmead - as I mentioned in a previous post, I want to support fellow Snoother Dan Petroski but I love the wines so I think it is a great idea to visit. - Vincent Arroyo - a lot of focus on Petite Syrah which is about as big and bold as you can get. But they have some other nice blends - Honig - not quite as bold but solid wines in my opinion. There everyday cab is great but there limited bottlings are awesome and they fit right into your price range. - Louis M. Martini - even though they are part of the Gallo Group, I really like their wines. Get there early before it gets too crazy. I love the Los Ninos but there are a few other great cabs there. - Spottswoode is a great place to go but can be tough to get in and they are a bit pricy - Joseph Phelps is one of my fall backs and I love the view from their patio. So, now you have a ton of recommendations. I'm sure you will have a great time and taste a lot of great wines with whatever places you decide to go to.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic I am headed to Napa at the... by HondaJohn

  
  

• August 2009

  Benziger – Making a difference one vine at a time. When you visit the Benziger Estate vineyards you know something special is going on. The sight of so many vineyard blocks carefully eased into each contour of this beautiful slice of Sonoma Valley, just west of the hamlet of Glen... Read moreBenziger - Making a difference one vine at a time. When you visit the Benziger Estate vineyards you know something special is going on. The sight of so many vineyard blocks carefully eased into each contour of this beautiful slice of Sonoma Valley, just west of the hamlet of Glen Ellen, is only the first indication of how much thought and care is going into the cultivation of these grapes. What sets Benziger apart? Family Owned There is one simple reason for all this care and deliberation: Benziger remains a family owned and operated winery. From the first day Mike and Mary Benziger drove up London Ranch Road and discovered the overgrown land that was to be transformed into the Benziger Estate on Sonoma Mountain, to the present day, the family has remained intimately involved with the day-to-day operations of the winery. The fact is that three generations of Benzigers have worked to make the winery what it is today. The youngest, embodied by Mike and Mary’s daughter Erinn, is as determined as any to continue to curate this land to ensure that future generations are able to enjoy the natural beauty of Sonoma Mountain and make wines that will live up to the proud reputation that the currant generations have established for the Benziger Family Winery. Biodynamic Farming Mike Benziger was one of the pioneering winemakers in California’s biodynamic movement. Biodynamics is a philosophy that treats all parts of an agricultural enterprise like elements of a single living, breathing entity. The theory posits that by fostering the health of the environment one can increase the vibrancy and quality of the production of that environment. In many ways a return to a simpler, more intuitive style of farming that abandons much of the commercial “progress” of the past century in favor of traditional methods that deliver unique, site-specific flavors, and more importantly, are sustainable. Gone, for example, are the monoculture vineyards, replaced by vines inter-planted with species that foster the development of vibrant populations of beneficial, predatory animals. These outposts are linked via pathways to allow these animals free access to all of the estate. Simple changes such as the re-introduction of these natural predators can have profound effects on the landscape that extends beyond the immediate benefits of crop diversification. To help further attract these beneficial predators, owl boxes and bat houses where placed within these oasis creating wildlife sanctuaries. The combined effect of harnessing these symbiotic animals and their ferocious appetite was the elimination of commercial pesticides, yet another tenet of Biodynamics. Adhering to the principles of Biodynamics requires the elimination of commercial fertilizers. The Benzigers use composted materials from the farm, grape canes from annual pruning, pomace from the previous years harvest, as well as manure from the farm’s goats and cattle, to replace nutrients that have pulled from the ground. This effort to “close the loop” extends to the estate’s water management system as well. Waste water from the wineries operations is captured and feed through a series of reclamation ponds were the water is filtered so that it can be used for irrigation, lowering the impact the winery makes on it’s surrounding. While much of Biodynamics is focused on maintaining the health of the estate as a distinct entity, the Benziger family is well aware of the impact they may have on the world around them and are working to limit that impact. While much of the fruit used to produce Benziger wines comes from the Estate, the family also relies on contract growers to supply fruit. In an effort to extend their impact beyond the confines of the Sonoma Mountain Estate the Benziger family has helped myriad growers move away from commercial farming techniques by incentivizing a switch to less impactful farming methods. Sustainable and Organic Benziger encourages its partner growers to move gradually from commercial farming to sustainable farming through a program they call Farming for Flavors™. The hope and goal is that each grower will eventually adopt the ever more stringent rules of organic and ultimately biodynamic farming. While the environmental impact is always at the forefront of these efforts, the simple fact is that the quality of the fruit improves as growers move away from commercial techniques. That exceptional grape quality makes the effort profitable, thus attracting and motivating growers to participate in the program. While this may extend beyond the recognized principles of Biodynamics, the effort to move people away from chemical pesticides and commercial fertilizers embodies the spirit of Biodynamics and illustrates the commitment the family has to the impact their winemaking leaves on the world around them. Winemaking plays its part The Benziger philosophy starts, not surprisingly, in the vineyards. Their faith in Biodynamics not only represents their belief that it is better for the soil, but also their belief that as a farming system it produces better, more site specific wines. They strive to capture this specificity, or terroir as it is frequently referred to, by practicing a low impact form of winemaking that begins among the vines. Grapes are harvested early in the day while still cool, and sorted before being crushed. Each block of the vineyard is fermented separately and with it’s own natural yeasts, a further allowing each site to fully express its unique traits. These individual lots are then aged and eventually blended to produce the wines that define the Benziger Estate style: Bold yet balanced, complex and elegant expressions of a people, a place and a time captured and to be shared with friends and, above all, family. Great Wines, Better pricing I was fortunate to be able to spend some time at Benziger during my recent visit to Sonoma, and got the opportunity to taste through several of their wines with winemaker Rodrigo Soto. Rodrigo is a recent addition to the Benziger team charged with further developing their Farming for Flavors™ program. His passion for wine was as obvious as his commitment to improving the program that has established Benziger as a leader in the return to intelligent, sustainable, low impact farming. If you are not familiar with Benziger this is your chance to get to know them. They should not only be admired for their efforts at improving the health of their vineyards, and the world around them, but also for the wines they produce. For a limited time they are extending fantastic discounts to Snooth members. I urge you to take advantage of this compelling offer. As a further incentive Benziger will upgrade your shipping from ground to 2nd day air when you buy a case of wines, 12 bottles solid or mixed. This deal expires Saturday, September 26, 2009 so make sure and get your order in before then and enjoy great saving and that free upgrade to 2nd day air shipping. It’s a deal that can’t be beat! 2005 Benziger Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County Normally: $49.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $24.50 Distinctly ripe on the nose with a light overlay of subtle oak and spicy, licorice nuances. This is full bodied and chunky in the mouth with a jammy, blackberry core and light notes of vanilla and cedary spice adding complexity. 89pts View Details 2006 San Remo Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Normally: $49.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $34.00 With lovely red fruits on the nose edged with cola, balsamic and dried meat tones this is open knit and attractively perfumed. Very fresh in the mouth with a soft texture that is so perfectly balanced by the slightly candied cranberry fruit tones that this fairly slides down the throat. There are nice nuances of sassafras and Mexican chocolate spice tones on the finish. This is perfect for current consumption and while it may not be the biggest, baddest Pinot on the block it makes up for it by being a simply delicious and fresh bottle. 91pts View Details 2005 Benziger 'Oonapais' Estate Sonoma Mountain Red, Sonoma Mountain Normally: $50.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $30.00 Initially revealing subtle smoky scents over sweet, dark, earthy fruit lightly threaded with woodspice, green herb, and seaweed tones this gains intensity that follows through on the palate. Big and polished in the mouth with a deep, velvety texture that features well-integrated acids contributing volume in the mouth. Rich and very fruity with notes of coffee, pine, and earth framing the dark wild berry fruits that lead to a great, mouthwatering finish full of dark cherry flavors and edged with cedar and spicy peppery nuances. This is a great value. It includes some of the wine that was intended to be part of Benziger’s top of the line bottling, Tribute, but just didn’t make the final cut. Already drinking very well this has definite upside potential over the next 3-5 years. 93pts View Details 2006 Benziger 'Obsidian Point' Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Mountain Normally: $65.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $49.00 Clear and high toned aromatics greet the nose with well integrated oak tones juxtaposed against complex green coffee bean, herb, cocoa tones with a light suggest of underbrush. This is seamless in the mouth with superb ripe tannins and plenty of acidity to add brightness to the dark, spicy fruit on the palate. The purity of the black currant fruit is admirable with a really well defined mineral note that powers through the back end and leads to a tapering, long finish. This is wonderfully balanced and really transparent if a little tight at this point. Better to leave this for 2-3 years allowing it to blossom and fulfill all it’s potential. 94pts View Details   Summer Shipping Alert Due to warm weather across the nation, Benziger will upgrade all orders of 12 bottles or more to 2-Day Air shipping for no extra charge. (Except orders within Calif.) Also while the warm weather persists, Benziger will only ship wines on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Benziger ships to the following states: AK, CA, CO, DC, FL, GA, HI, IA, ID, IL, KS, MN, MO, NC, ND, NE, NH, NM, NV, NY, OR, SC, TX, VA, VT, WA, WI, WV, WY For shipping to CT, IN, LA & MI, please call Benziger's offices at: 800-989-8890 The offer also includes free upgraded from UPS Ground to 2nd Day air on Case purchases (can be mixed). This special promotion expires September 26, 2009    (hide)

  From the article Benziger - Leading the way on Sonoma Mountain

  
  

• July 2009

  I'm Chad Carns, author of The Gourmet Bachelor - Global Flavor, Local Ingredients cookbook. I've been studying food and wine for years but I'm not a wine expert or a chef. I try to bring global food and expert wine knowledge to the home cook in a simple way. Enjoy my tasting... Read moreI'm Chad Carns, author of The Gourmet Bachelor - Global Flavor, Local Ingredients cookbook. I've been studying food and wine for years but I'm not a wine expert or a chef. I try to bring global food and expert wine knowledge to the home cook in a simple way. Enjoy my tasting notes from Aureole Wine Weekend Las Vegas..... The Gourmet Bachelor Wine Review Tasting Notes by Chad Carns 1 - 10 Rating Scale 8 - 10 Special 5 - 7 Recommend 1 - 4 Pass Special: Wines exhibit several layers of flavor, something unique, perfect balance or a long finish. Recommend: Wines exhibit depth, interest or amazing value. Pass: Wines taste extracted, plastic, flat or just bad. Descriptive words refer to the initial aromas released from the bouquet, flavors that roll around your mouth while tasting the wine or with great wine, flavors that linger 10, 20 and occasionally 60 seconds after you consume the wine. ___________ Aureole, Las Vegas Wine Weekend, June 12 - 14, 2009 Tasting Notes by Chad Carns, author of The Gourmet Bachelor - Global Flavor, Local Ingredients Cookbook ___________ Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc 7 Sancerre, Domaine Vacheron, Les Romains 2006 Honey Suckle, Mineral, Saffron 6 Pouilly Fume, Didier Dagueneau, Silex 2002 Grape Fruit, Lavender 7 Savennieres, Coulee de Serrant, Nicolas Joly 2004 Hibiscus, Chai Tea, 6 Savennieres, Coulee de Serrant, Nicolas Joly 2004 Dandelion, Citrus, Light Ash 8 Savennieres, Baumard 1988 Cream Corn, Black Pepper 7 Vouvray, Huet, "Clos du Bourg," Demi-Sec 1962 7 Vouvray, Huet, "Clos du Bourg," Moelleux 1995 Baked Apricot, Chai Tea, Coriander ___________ Northern Rhone, France White: Marsanne, Rousanne, Viognier 7 Hermitage Blanc, Bette & Scholl 2001 Subtle bouquet, Red Pepper Flakes, long finish 7 Hermitage Blanc, Chapoutier, Cuvee de L'Oree" 1991 7 Chateau Grillet, Neyret-Gachet 2001 Exotic Fruit, White Cherry, Floral 8 Condrieu, Guigal, "La Doriane" 1996 Expressive Bouquet, Bacon 7 Condrieu, Gangloff 2002 Slightly Oxidized, Mineral 7 Condrieu, Guigal 2006 Balanced ___________ Northern Rhone, France Red: Syrah 7 Cornas, Auguste Clape 2004 Dirt, Stem, Raspberry, Sea Mist 7 Cornas, Alain Voge, "Cuvee Vieilles Fontaines" 1999 7 Cornas, Thierry Allemand "Reynardt" 2004 Elegant 7 Cornas, Noel Verset 1995 ___________ 7 Cote Rotie, Chapoutier, La Mordoree" 1996 Strawberry 8 Cote Rotie, Jamet 1997 Granit, Black Pepper, Special 7 Cote Rotie, Jean-Michel "Les Grandes Places" 2001 8 Cote Rotie, Rostaing, "La Landonne" 2004 Special ___________ 7 Cote Rotie, Delas Freres "Maugiron" 2004 7 Cote Rotie, Cuilleron, "Bassenon" 2005 Sea Mist 8 Cote Rotie, Pierre Gaillard, Rose Pourpe" 2001 Rustic, Cinnamon, 7 Cote Rotie, Gangloff 2002 ___________ 7 Hermitage, Chapoutier, La Sizeranne 1997 8 Hermitage, JL Chave 2001 8 Hermitage, Jaboulet, "La Chapelle" 1990 (100 pt Parker) Cassis, Espresso 8 Hermitage, Chapoutier, "La Pavillon" 1994 ___________ 7 Hermitage, Delas Freres, "Les Bessards" 2003 Classic 7 Hermitage, Guigal, "Ex Voto" 2001 Driftwood, Sage 8 Hermitage, Betts & Scholl 2004 7 Hermitage, Guigal 1998 ___________ Aromatic White Wines of the World 7 Weissburgunder, Heidle Schenkenbichl, "Maximum," Kamptal, Austria 200 Cantaloupe, Honey Suckle, Fresh Basil 8 Riesling, Breuer, "Montosa Charta" Rhiengau, Germany 1997 Spice, Chalk, Full-bodied, Crisp, Special 7 Albarino, Iberian Remix, Edna Valley 2008 Tarragon 7 Chablis, Francois Raveneau, "Montee de Tonnerre," France 2004 Lime, Chalk, Crisp 6 Gruner Veltliner, Huber, "Berg," Traisental, Austria 2004 Lychee 7 Chardonnay, ISC, Arroyo Grande 2007 Cucumber, Citrus ___________ California Syrah 7 Syrah, Arnot-Roberts, Griffins Lair," Marin 2005 Spearmint, Cranberry, Pomegranate, Old-World style 7 Syrah, Copain, "Hawks Butte," Mendocino 2004 Big Mouth Feel 7 Syrah, Miner Family, "La Diligence," Napa 2005 Old-World style ___________ Washington Syrah 8 Syrah, Columbia, "Red Willow," Columbia Valley 1998 Cinnamon, Currant, Eucalyptus, Floral 8 Syrah, Mathews, "Hedges Vineyards," Columbia Valley 2002 Deep Black Tar, Venison 7 Syrah, McCrea, "Amerique," Columbia Valley 2000 Cherry, Sea Breeze ___________ California Cabernet 7 Cabernet Sauvignon, Seavey, Napa 2003 Cassis, Violet, Sea Breeze 7 Cabernet Sauvignon, Martin Estates, Reserve, Napa 2001 Italian Sausage, Fennel, Green Peppers, Onions 7 Cabernet Sauvignon, Laurel Glen, Sonoma Mountains, 2002 Violet, Vanilla 7 Cabernet Sauvignon, Abreu, "Madronna Ranch," Napa 2002 7 Cabernet Sauvignon, Vineyard 29, "Grace Family," Napa 1994 Lavender, Raspberry, Pine 8 R.T.W. Colgin, "Cariad," 2001 Napa Quince, Unique 8 Cabernet Sauvignon, Joseph Phelps, "Eisele," Napa 1984 8 Cabernet Sauvignon, Beaulieu Vineyards, "Georges de Latour" 1976 Old World, Special 8 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mayacamas, Napa 1970 Special ___________ Washington Cabernets 7 Cabernet Sauvignon, Chateau St Michele, Columbia Dried Rose Pedals 7 R.T.W. Woodward Canyon, "Charbonneau," Columbia 1987 Black Tea, Molasses 7 R.T.W.Hedges, "Red Mountain Reserve," Columbia 1988    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic 1990 Hermitage, 1976 Cabernet... by The Gourmet Bachelor

  
  

• July 2009

  To everyone that's been following these posts, this was the final leg of our journey. I really hope these posts were helpful and enjoyable. I know I had a great time reliving it all through my notes. And so unto the wineries... Trespass... Read moreTo everyone that's been following these posts, this was the final leg of our journey. I really hope these posts were helpful and enjoyable. I know I had a great time reliving it all through my notes. And so unto the wineries... Trespass http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v71/Violentfix/Napa/DSC_0446.jpg I’m not a big fan of Cab Franc, or so I thought. After tasting through French Cab Franc and visiting the North fork of Long Island, I had pretty much decided that Cab Franc was not for me. Big, dark, funky beasts whose aromas reminded me of field latrines in the army… Good thing I didn’t let that deter me from visiting Trespass. What better way to experience Trespass than to complete the Summit Experience at Pride and then drive down that long twisting road to find yourself at a dirt path with a little sign swaying in the wind “Trespass”. Pulling up to see Donny sitting under an umbrella in the middle of a field with nothing but himself and his wines to show you that Trespass has something magnificent to offer is a little surreal. Unfortunately, my wife didn’t survive the tasting at Pride, followed by that twisting drive down spring mountain, she ended up spending the stop at Trespass in the car. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v71/Violentfix/Napa/DSC_0449.jpg But that’s okay because this didn’t feel like a regular tasting, it was more like sitting around on a summer day with a buddy popping open some bottles. It was also a welcome change tasting Trespass Cab Franc after all the Merlot and Cab at Pride. Not to mention, Donny is great for hanging out with while drinking some wine. 2005 Cab Franc - Very tight at first but after about a 1/2 hour it was explosive dark fruit, forest floor and fresh baked bread (Yeah, I know that sounds odd but it smelled GOOD!). Clean and focus with great acidity. 2006 Cab Franc - Sweeter fruit on the nose, red. Brown sugar. Performed nicely in the mouth with ginger and darker fruits. A little tight on the finish but it's young. 2006 Rendezvous - Very expressive with tobacco, cinnamon and chocolate. Sour black cherry that turned sweet on the mid-palate. Rounder than the other wines with a lush fruity finish. 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon - Real tight but with the stuffing to grow into something real special. After this wine opened up a bit it showed a nose of rich raspberry preserves, new leather and olive (very nice). Still tight on the palate with streamlined core of rich dark fruit and a tannic bite. I think a little time will reveal something very special in this wine. In closing, I thoroughly enjoyed Trespass and I can't wait to spend some time with these bottles in my home where I can really watch them open up over time. Alpha Omega http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v71/Violentfix/Napa/DSC_0450.jpg My entire trip through Napa one of the most frequently asked questions was “where are we going next?” Whenever I’d mention Alpha Omega, I’d receive a similar response. “Oh, I’ve heard really good things about Alpha Omega”. Well, I don’t know what they heard but I do know that what I tasted was sheer potential in a bottle. These last few days I’ve posted plenty of notes about incredible bottles of wine from people with an insatiable passion for making the best product they can but at Alpha Omega I felt all that, plus a sense of total determination. These may be the new kids on the block to some extent but what they’ve got cooking (or fermenting) in their winery is nothing short of spectacular. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v71/Violentfix/Napa/DSC_0455.jpg I was met by, assistant wine maker, Henrik Poulsen in their tasting room. As we sampled each wine, Henrik would explain what their process was, why they went the way they did and how he felt about the finished product. It was amazing because there was no sales pitch, no glossing over, just total honesty and a genuine interest in what we thought about the wine. My opinion, Alpha Omega is using some of the best fruit in the valley to make wines styled in a way that you typically don’t find in the valley. These are not big, over the top Cabernets. They are graceful and elegant wines that I would want on my dinner table with a fine meal and especially in my cellar. Wines that I could see withstanding the test of time. Onto the wines. 2008 Sauvignon Blanc was a fresh and lively wine with peach nectar, wild flowers and spring air on the nose. On the palate it presented a zippy acidity and showed pear or granny smith with orange rind on the finish. Light, fresh and begging you to take another sip. 2006 Chardonnay - Lemon tart and pine nut on the nose, a bit toasty. Full with bright citrus on the palate. Not tiring in any way. A lasting fresh finish. 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon - A bit closed at first but showing tart Cherry, toast, spices and cedar box. The palate was full with dark cherry that’s round, sweet and expansive on the mid-palate but carried by a nice sharp acidity. 2006 Era - Layers on the nose with cherry liquor, cinnamon graham cracker, black licorice and a bit of oak. Big dark red fruit and spicy on the palate but streamlined by a great balance of acidity. Great mix for this big wine that keeps it fresh and elegant. Long finish. At this point Henrik took us into the winery to taste some of the 2007’s that have not yet been bottled. He also explained how important it was to them that these wines are bottled when they feel they are truly ready to hit the market. Look out, because the 2006 Cabs were good but the 2007’s… Outstanding! (I have limited notes because we were standing and walking.) 2007 Era - Red Raspberry jam, spicy and violet candies. Lip smacking, big dark fruit all framed by a vibrant juiciness that kept it fresh yet full. Long finish. I was however given the chance to spend some time with the 2007 Alpha Omega To-Kalon, OH BOY! Red Fruits, Raspberry, smoky cinnamon sugar, hints of vanilla. Vibrant Blueberry jam and currants on the palate with tobacco and chocolate. Blackberry, citrus finish. Long and elegant. Velvety tannin. The best 2007 I tasted on my trip, period. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v71/Violentfix/Napa/DSC_0460.jpg And that was that. A gorgeous way to end our tasting trip. That night we had some local friends meet us at the hotel where we opened a number of bottles from our trip. Not only did I have a great time but I truly acquired a deep respect for the wineries and winemakers that I met. I will be adding many of these wines to my cellar over the following months and I can’t wait to have another chance to go back to Napa and do it all again. Thanks to everyone who recommended these places and a special thanks to Dan Petroski (Larkmead), Merrill Lindquist (EMH), Tim Bouchet (Pride), Don Gallagher (trespass), Jean Hoefliger and Henrik Poulsen (Alpha Omega) for taking the time and for making great wine. Hope you all enjoyed! Eric    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Napa Tasting Part 3 (Trespass... by Eric Guido

  
  

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