Beyond the Grape Winery

• November 2009

  This is an intersting game to play. While I don't really have strong likes or dislikes regarding most established wine-grape varieties and clones therefrom, like most of you, I have fairly obvious preferences. Those preferences derive from exposure to varietal wines made by the... Read moreThis is an intersting game to play. While I don't really have strong likes or dislikes regarding most established wine-grape varieties and clones therefrom, like most of you, I have fairly obvious preferences. Those preferences derive from exposure to varietal wines made by the best vineyards, regions, properties and winemasters in the world. Many of the thousands of potentially quality varieties compare unfavorably because they are out of the general purview and made in lesser known (even obscure) regions. Moldova, Romania, Georgia or eastern Turkey might be given as exotic examples. Less exotic examples are Portugal, Greece and the Balkans. Getting beyond this issue, my experience tells me that one's mood, maturity, education and exposure to different parts of the world will affect appreciation of food products such as wine. Once, wine was, for me, purely an accompaniment of conviviality. Later, as my exposure to the larger story of wine-making grew with its talk of terroir, climat, cepage and other technicalities, I came to understand and recognize sensations that escaped me in the past. Why this garulous - nay, florid - preamble? Simply to say that my appreciation of Premier Cru Burgundy (the only Pinot Noir that truly satisfies this palate) had to follow upon an understanding of how the wine evolves in the cask, bottle and glass. I also needed to know - from direct experience - how a property 200 meters away from another affected subtety of flavour and scent and how this realisation changes your evaluation and relative pleasure forever - not unlike discovering a once much-admired love interest has depths you no longer wish to plumb. My love of Pinot Noir, Reisling, Syrah, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Nebbiolo, Brunello, Merlot, etc. is therfore highly contingent on the provenance of the wine. These are all fine grape varieties with a wonderful range of flavor. On a desert island, however, I might content myself with top shelf Burgundy (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir examples), Pomerol (Merlot-based), Barolo, Brunello di Montelcino and Cotes Rotie. I do not apologize for the absence of New World wines in this mix - excellent examples notwithstanding. I exclude the wonderful blends of Left Bank Bordeaux in keeping with the spirit of things.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic What's your favorite grape(s) by zufrieden

  
  

• October 2009

  More grist for the mill: http://www.oregonlive.com/living/index.ssf/2009/10/geologists_have_the_dirt_on_wi.html Though seemingly confident in trying to debunk the minerality 'myth', the geologists et al. at the conference admit that they still don't understand just what is happening... Read moreMore grist for the mill: http://www.oregonlive.com/living/index.ssf/2009/10/geologists_have_the_dirt_on_wi.html Though seemingly confident in trying to debunk the minerality 'myth', the geologists et al. at the conference admit that they still don't understand just what is happening in the vineyard and the wineglass. Some quotes from the article: --'"I am not saying that chemistry and geology have no effect on the wine. It may have effects that we don't understand," Maltman said. "But whatever 'minerality' in wine is, it is not the taste of vineyard minerals."' --'Swinchatt agrees, but in California's Napa Valley, he's found subtle differences in soil texture that make a huge difference in grape quality. One grower told Swinchatt about a "sweet spot" in his vineyard that consistently produced his best grapes.... At another Napa site, vines growing on adjacent, similar-looking gravel-and-sand soils produced grapes consistently different in character. Swinchatt found that the two soil areas had different geologic histories: Floods laid down one, while volcanic debris flows deposited the other. "Some factors in the geology are reflected in the winemakers' tastebuds," Swinchatt said.' --'The soil's water-holding capacity can make a difference. Different soils create better or worse conditions for roots and the fungi that help roots extract nutrients. But scientists have barely started to explore these factors in vineyards.' --'Climate -- a hugely important wine-growing variable -- also is shaped by geology. In eastern Washington, the landscape is wrinkled into giant folds by north-south compression of the bedrock. As a result, "There are spectacular differences in climate over small distances," said Kevin Pogue, a geologist at Whitman College in Walla Walla.' So I'm going to go out on a limb and posit that 'minerality' is something real, that many of us can sense, but is still so delicately ephemeral as to be beyond science's present ability to understand and explain...    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic New to wine drinking and need... by dmcker

  
  

• October 2009

  Although I seem to remember the odd reference to 'Canary Sack' in old English literature (including Shakespeare's Merry Wives of Windsor and Henry IV), I hadn't really seen much less tasted any until I found myself passing through Tenerife a few years back. I wasn't there all that... Read moreAlthough I seem to remember the odd reference to 'Canary Sack' in old English literature (including Shakespeare's Merry Wives of Windsor and Henry IV), I hadn't really seen much less tasted any until I found myself passing through Tenerife a few years back. I wasn't there all that long, but still have vivid memories of the volcanic landscape, striking folk music, great seafood, and drinking wine in the midst of all of that and even with several banana dishes (I remember a lot of bananas from there... ;-) ). One of the big names is D.O. Lanzarote, with striking bush vineyards planted in the middle of desert-like surroundings. The white Malvasías from there has been good for a long time and was generally anglicized in the past as Malmsey. Some dry and many sweet, with even a hint of sherry-like flavor, though they are unfortified. My guess is they are likely to be part of plenty of wine tours in the islands as the Canaries have upped their tourism (esp. wine tourism) in recent years. Another good D.O. is Tacoronte-Acentejo, in the north of Tenerife, with distinctive reds made from the local Listán grape. Canary wines are very few and far between in Tokyo where I currently live. Some wines I've had this decade when traveling elsewhere (esp. to Spain) include: --Vinos de Terrunos German Gilabert Rosat Trepa --Butan Crater --Tajinaste Blanco Listan Blanco, Tajinaste Tradicional Listan Negro --Enologia Temera Mencia VV --Vevi Rueda Some with vintage appellations, and other NV. There are plenty of others, I'm sure, but those are the ones I remember amidst the wines from other parts of Spain (so many wines, so little time...). You'll commonly find both dry and sweet whites (the old Sack/Malmsey wines were likely quite strong and sweet), One bubbly dessert wine I remember is a non-vintage Cheste Agraria Muscat. Alhough muscat is generally not at the top of my list, versions from the Canaries and Greece are some of the best I've had. And though I haven't yet tried them, and don't know their shipping restrictions, I have run across an online sales site for Canary wines: http://shop.tucanarias.com/categorias.php?cat=1 Finally, some inspiring words from Shakespeare's Henry IV: "But i faith, you have drunk too much canaries and that’s a marvellous searching wine, and it perfumes the blood ere one can say: What’s this?" Recognize the sensation from wines even beyond the Canaries? ;-)    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic What wines from the Canary... by dmcker

  
  

• October 2009

  Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen with Beaujolais and Butternut Mac & Cheese Karen UlrichIMBIBE NEW YORK Tucked away just south of Mâcon, at the tail end of Burgundy, sits Beaujolais—the oft neglected, yet vigorous region devoted to the red grape Gamay.  Capable of producing... Read moreExperiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen with Beaujolais and Butternut Mac & Cheese Karen UlrichIMBIBE NEW YORK Tucked away just south of Mâcon, at the tail end of Burgundy, sits Beaujolais—the oft neglected, yet vigorous region devoted to the red grape Gamay.  Capable of producing as much wine a year as the entire region of Burgundy, Beaujolais is typically associated with the November release of its potentially reputation-scaring Beaujolais Nouveau—a light and fruity simple red wine that’s meant to be drunk just months after it’s bottled.  But if this isn’t to one’s liking, one should continue north, with her eyes on the horizon beyond the practices of carbonic maceration, chaptalization (the addition of sugar to increase the alcohol level or abv) and short fermentation; past the rich, cool limestone and clay of Bas Beaujolais, and across the Nizerand River where the soil, landscape, and wine, undergo great change. Here, one will see the flat plains of the south give way to rolling hills of granite schist, where the vines receive more singular attention, and Burgundian-like wine making is practiced.  There are 38 communes classified as Beaujolais-Villages, and ten crus, including—Julienas, Moulin-a-Vent, Morgon, Brouilly and Fleurie.  And while some age-worthy wines are produced in these appellations, these are not the wines around which I created my vegetarian recipes this month.  Since most meatless dishes stem from healthy peasant stock, I chose to harness this spirit by choosing affordable wines ($15 or less) that are suitable to drink and pair with the everyday meal. Why Beaujolais?   It’s a wine that many Americans bring to the Thanksgiving table, just a heartbeat away.  And while the traditional turkey fare of this meal doesn’t interest me, a light bodied, red wine with low tannins and high acidity is a dream to pair in the Vegetarian kitchen. For the recipes I began with a list of vegetarian ingredients that are known to pair well with Beaujolais or Gamay—fennel, onion, leeks, potato, eggs, capers, bell peppers, nuts, pumpkin, salad and cheeses that include cheddar, feta, and Swiss.  And then I uncorked a bottle of 2008 Beaujolais L’Ancien Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorees.   It’s an exception from Sud Beaujolais, because Jean-Paul uses natural yeasts, minimal or no chaptalization or filtering, and little sulfites.  When poured, subtle aromas of red cherry—slightly candied—and earth rise from the glass, and when sipped, the red fruits (cherry and cranberry) are wholly integrated with the other elements.  The finish is dry and earthy, and the acidity lingers straight through to the end.  It’s super refreshing, especially when served slightly chilled, at 54-59 degrees.  For this bottle I created a dish of roasted green beans, red onion, feta, and hardboiled eggs, with a dressing of olive oil, lemon, garlic, and coriander and cumin.  It’s a perfect match.  The wine retains its bright fruit and acidity without biting back, while the lemon compliments the wine’s acidity.  And though the pairing is harmonious, there’s a silent display of fireworks that illuminates both fruit and acidity, like a torch in a cave.  On the finish, the wine follows in the footsteps of the suggestive dressing, developing notes of spice. My second pairing failed miserably, both as a recipe and with the wine.  I’ll only mention that it included capers, feta, roasted red peppers, broccoli, and toasted walnuts; and that it didn’t work—it’s a tinny combination that turns the Beaujolais tangy and astringent, like under-ripe fruit. Thankfully, recipe number three—Butternut Mac and Cheese—is delightful, though it took a few attempts to get the oven times, textures, and temperatures right. To download a printable PDF of this recipe please follow this link. Butternut Mac and Cheese 1 medium butternut squash (3 lbs.) 3 tbs. olive oil 2 cups of chopped onions 1 lb. pasta, cooked al dente 2 tbs. butter 1/2 cup whole milk 1/2 cup heavy cream 4 cups grated cheese (I used 3 cheddar and 1 cup brought from Amsterdam by Lee) 1/8 tsp. nutmeg 1 1/2 tbs. salt pepper to taste grated Parmesan cheese Preheat the oven at 450˚, cut butternut squash in half, and place it facedown on an oiled sheet.  Bake for 45 minutes, remove from the oven, let the squash cool, and scoop out the flesh. In a pan, heat 2 tbs. of oil, and cook the onions until they’re sweaty—still a bit firm and crunchy—approximately 5 minutes. Mix the onions in a bowl together with the reserved squash, milk and cream, grated cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Toss the al dente pasta with 2 tbs. of butter and combine this with the mix. Pour into an ungreased 9x11 (or 9x13) pan and bake uncovered for 15 minutes at 400˚.  Serve hot. The end result is creamy with contrasting flavors—the sweet and salty earth of the squash; the onions, slightly firm and candied, pop against a background of creamy savory cheese—it’s hearty and healthy, whether eaten alone or with a salad of baby greens and mustard vinaigrette dressing.  The first time I prepared this dish, I paired it with 2008 Beaujolais-Villages La Lutine Domaine Des Terres Vivantes—a wine with smoky minerality and a petticoat of cherry.  It’s silky, and slightly floral with fruit that lingers on the finish; and as the wind blew through my window, wafts of fruit rose from the glass that sat on the table beside me.  I love the minerality on the nose, and when paired with the first round of Butternut Mac and Cheese, La Lutine compliments the squash, rendering it sweet and fruity.  The sweaty onions are lively and the cherry flavors in the wine are highlighted against a backdrop of cheddar cheese.  The pairing is like two new lovers walking hand in hand beneath a canopy of fall colored leaves; the couple not yet wholly integrated after years in each other’s company—each maintaining harmonious but separate identities. For the second round, I opened a bottle of 2007 Château du Chatelard Beaujolais-Villages Vielles Vignes—a more mature Beaujolais, both in age and texture.  Here, one finds dark cherries sprinkled on a damp forest floor.  While the acidity is not electric, it’s enough to keep the rustic tannins in check.  Near the finish, the fruit goes back in time, to appear—if only for a moment—once again young.  And while I enjoy but do not love the wine on it’s own, it pairs perfectly with the Butternut Mac and Cheese. As with the last bottle, the wine accentuates the sweetness of the dish.  The tannins that once seemed somewhat out of place, are replaced with clove spice; and the earthy elements of the wine now have a role with purpose.  The onions, squash, and nutmeg are earthy and sweet, and the wine compliments these notes returning in kind, a love letter stamped with earth and fruit.     (hide)

  From the article Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen with Beaujolais and Butternut Mac & Cheese

  
  

• October 2009

  Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce Cutting the fat with Dry Rielsing Eric Guido returns this week with a stunning Fettucini in Truffled Cream Sauce recipe. Using the the theory of contrasting flavors Eric has paired this dish with a set of dry... Read more Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce Cutting the fat with Dry Rielsing Eric Guido returns this week with a stunning Fettucini in Truffled Cream Sauce recipe. Using the the theory of contrasting flavors Eric has paired this dish with a set of dry rieslings. In the wine and food pairing world there are two fundamental concepts that govern pairing decisons. One can choose to either contrast, or to compliment, the flavors and textures of a dish.In this case the rich creaminess of the sauce is contrasted against the brilliant mineral, and acid rich flavors of the wines. Other wines that would be worth exploring for this sort of dish, rich, creamy and laced with prosciutto, would include Pinot Bianco from the Alto Adige, Fiano di Avellino from Campania, dry Riesling from Australia or even a fine aged dry Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley What to expect: Riesling Riesling is a chameleon of a grape, able to produce world class wines that range from bone dry to unctuously sweet. Germany is most closely associated with Riesling, where all styles are made, and the range of flavors runs the gamut from steely and crisp with crunchy, mineral driven flavors to fresh lime, apple, and peach notes and beyond to the rich honied, candied fruit tones of the great dessert wines. Find more German Riesling Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce Autumn is truly a great season for food and wine lovers.  As the temperatures drop and the leaves begin to fall, we find ourselves craving the rich and hearty foods and wines that truly make life worth living.  Maybe it’s a creamy spiced squash bisque or a rich succulent braise that triggers those happy thoughts of good times and good friends.  For me it’s the foods of Northern Italy that always fit the bill.  One of my favorites is a pasta dish I mastered while working as a chef at T.H.O.R.: Fettuccine in truffle cream sauce. Fettuccine in Truffle Cream Sauce Not a dish you could eat every day or even every week but, when the cards are down and inhibitions are lifted, this is a plate that is sure to please with its bold flavors beautifully intertwined in an elegant, decedent, yet simply prepared sauce.  The woodsy, smoky and slightly salty flavors of the prosciutto combined with the fresh, sweet vegetal flavors of the peas, which balanced by the creamy sauce, wafts intoxicating aromas of truffles into the air.  The best part about this recipe is that the majority of the work is in the preparation, meaning you can prep your ingredients before your guests arrive, entertain them with a bubbly, and then return to the kitchen to finish the dish in literally 10 to 15 minutes. So what would you pair with such a dish?  I used this opportunity to experiment with Riesling, more specifically dry (trocken) Riesling from Germany, and I’m sure glad I did.  My theory was that the same lively acidity Riesling is known for would cut through the rich creaminess and intense flavors of the sauce, which it did in spades.  Also, Riesling is known for aromas and flavors different from most white wines, all of which added new dimensions to the truffle cream sauce.  For a dish such as this you would want to find a dry Riesling for its brisk acidity and citrus, mineral qualities.  Riesling is also known for being a wine that truly reflects the place in which it is grown.  This fact was truly apparent in the two wines I selected, as one was a single vineyard selection and the other a blend.  2006 Weingut Paulinshof Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Auslese Trocken The single vineyard 2006 Weingut Paulinshof Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Auslese Trocken sliced through the truffle cream sauce like a hot knife and added new dimensions to the sauce with it’s flavors of sour apple, orange zest, and hazelnut, leading to a sweet mid-palate with tongue curling acidity.  On the nose, it showed lime and melon, which managed to hold its own against the cream sauce’s heady aromas of truffle.  As you dig deeper the fruit is backed by the smell of chestnut, slate stone, and almond skins, which provide wonderful details and complexities.  This was everyone’s favorite of the night but, while not necessarily expensive, cost almost twice as much as the other wine. 2007 Peter Stolleis Haardter Herzog Riesling Kabinett Trocken The 2007 Peter Stolleis Haardter Herzog Riesling Kabinett Trocken was a light yellow straw in color with fresh aromas of peach nectar, lemon, and a bit of butter cookie.  The palate showed lemon rind and sweet pear but was all focused on the first impression with very little mid-palate performance.  The acidity was fresh and focused which did its job against the truffle cream sauce and followed through to a sour citrus finish.  Not a wine to think on but made for a wonderful simple sipper that paired well with the dinner and could have scored much higher in everyone’s book if it wasn’t evaluated against such stiff competition as the other wine. In the end, both Rieslings held their own and complimented the dinner quite well.  However, if it was up to me to make this again I would go for the 2006 Weingut Paulinshof simply because of its multiple levels of flavor and rich textures which truly complimented the decadence of the truffle cream sauce.  So next time you find yourself craving the finer things in life without spending hours in the kitchen, I invite you to try this recipe and pair it with a dry Riesling.  I think you’ll find it’s worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce.   Click here to download a printable PDF of this recipe. Fettuccine in Truffle Cream Sauce This recipe is all about planning and timing.  When working in fine dining, every plate is prepared separately in its own pan, no matter if the entire table orders the same thing.  However, at home, this would be nearly impossible, as you’d find yourself running out of burners very quickly.  I have adjusted my recipe, which was initially intended for a single plate for a party of four. When it comes to the truffles, look for white truffles.  If you have the funds to actually buy truffles for shaving over this dish then that’s great.  However, if you’d like to keep the cost of your meal outside of the stratospheric cost range, you can easily use truffle oil.  Be careful, though, when purchasing truffle oil by looking for a brand that has actual truffle in the oil, and stay away from anything that has ingredients that read “truffle flavoring.”  I use white truffle oil from Wild Forest Products. Lastly, a note on the prosciutto.  When you go to your butcher, ask for them to slice the prosciutto thick, about 1/8 of an inch.  At that size you will likely need about two slices for this recipe.  This will speed up your preparation.  Trim the fat and cut the prosciutto into a small dice. 1 lb bag of fettuccine (timing in recipe is for dry pasta) ¾ cup Prosciutto di Parma (small Dice) 1 cup peas (frozen is fine but go for a good quality brand) 1 shallot (fine dice) 3/4 cup white wine (if possible, use the same wine you are pairing) 1 cup vegetable stock 1 quart whipping cream (at room temperature) 1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano (grated) 4 tbls butter (cubed) truffle oil (see recipe instructions for use) salt and pepper (to taste) fresh parsley (minced) 1 tbls. canola oil. Preparation Start a pot of salted boiling water.  This is not for the pasta; it’s for the peas.  Also have a bowl half filled with ice water to create an ice bath.  Place the peas into the boiling water and let them par-cook for 4 - 5 minutes until they turn a vibrant green.  Immediately strain them and throw the peas into the ice bath.  Strain them again and set them aside, covered, in your refrigerator. Heat sauté pan over medium heat and add about a tablespoon of canola oil.  Carefully use a paper towel to coat the pan with the oil.  Add the small dice of Prosciutto di Parma to the pan and cook off.  You’re looking for a toasted appearance on each side.  While the prosciutto is cooking, cover a plate with a paper towel (think about how you cook off bacon for Sunday breakfast.)  Once the prosciutto is toasted on each side, take off the heat and move onto the plated paper towel.  Set the prosciutto aside. Have all of your ingredients ready and close to the oven.  Place your serving plates in an oven at the lowest temperature (this will keep the sauce from breaking when you plate the food.) Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil for the pasta.     Place a large saucier or sauté pan over medium low heat.  Melt 2 tbls of the butter in the pan and add the shallots and season with salt.  Allow the shallots to sweat in the butter until they are translucent. Turn the heat up to medium and allow the pan’s temperature to come up, but be careful to not let the shallot take on any color.  Add the white wine and allow it to reduce.  As the white wine is reducing in the pan, add the pasta to the boiling pasta water and set your timer to 2 minutes short of the recommended cooking time. (You are now at the point of no return.) Add the stock and whipping cream to the saucepan and raise the heat to a medium high.  Stay close to the pan and continue to mix regularly to make sure that the cream is not burning on the bottom of the pan.  The idea is to reduce the cream by 1/3. After about four minutes, add the pre-cooked prosciutto to the pan and continue to reduce.  If reduction appears to be going too quickly then turn down the burner to medium low.   Taste and season lightly with salt. The timer for your pasta should go off about the same time as the cream has reduced to desired level. Pour the pasta into a colander and quickly rinse out the pot with hot water.  Place pan back on the stovetop over a low flame. Drizzle pasta with truffle oil and toss.  Then add the pasta back to the pot and pour the reduced cream sauce over the pasta along with the par-cooked peas and stir to combine. Turn off the burner and add half of the grated Parmigiano Reggiano and last two tbls of butter.  Stir to bring the sauce together and taste.  Season with salt and pepper if necessary. Remove the plates from the oven and portion the pasta out with tongs.  (Don’t worry about the sauce at this time because it will collect at the bottom of the pan.)  Once you have portioned out all of the pasta, use a ladle to sauce each plate from what is left at the bottom of the pot, making sure to distribute the peas and pieces of prosciutto evenly. Drizzle each plate with truffle oil.  (Be careful not to overdo it.  Truffle and truffle oil can go from good to overwhelming very quickly.) Then sprinkle with the remaining parmigiano and then with parsley. With a warm paper towel, clean the rim of the plates and serve. Learn more about German wine and Food Pairing: On Snooth Learn to Decipher German Wine Labels An easy guide to help you find Dry Riesling German wines, whose labels offer you all the detailed information you need to make a great selection, can be very intimidating. It’s time to make it a bit easier. In case you missed our recent article, it helps one learn how to tell dry wines from sweet and find a Riesling to match your needs. Fettuccine in Truffle Cream Sauce By: Eric Guido Autumn is truly a great season for food and wine lovers.  As the temperatures drop and the leaves begin to fall, we find ourselves craving the rich and hearty foods and wines that truly make life worth living. For me it’s the foods of Northern Italy that always fit the bill.    (hide)

  From the article Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce

  
  

• October 2009

  For context - Greg DP drinks wines that are older than half of the people posting on this board! Actually I agree with him. The thing about most of the Rioja wines that bear the Reserva or Gran Reserva label is that they have usually spent a fair bit of time aging in large... Read moreFor context - Greg DP drinks wines that are older than half of the people posting on this board! Actually I agree with him. The thing about most of the Rioja wines that bear the Reserva or Gran Reserva label is that they have usually spent a fair bit of time aging in large barrels or tanks. So while the minimum is 2 years of barrel aging for a GR, usually they do more than that. And as part of the aging, they may be racked a few times. So you tend to have less sediment with those wines than you might with something else. But yeah, as a rule, if you have an older wine you don't know, I'd also advise storing it upright for a few hours or even a day or so before opening. Shaking up all the sediment is rarely a help. All that said, the definition of "old" depends on the wine itself. Some grapes seem to have a faster aging curve than others, and the winemaker also has a lot to do with it. For a wine like a Beaujolais, even a cru, a wine with fifteen years on it is pretty mature. For something like a major Barolo, ask Greg but those from the mid 90s that I've had are still really young and not nearly as good as they'll be. For classic Tempranillo, meaning made in the crianza/reserva/GR style, it's a little different. The idea is that the winery releases them when they're ready to drink. If you elect to keep them beyond that on your own, that's fine. But they don't need more aging when they come to the market. (Unlike Bordeaux, where the wineries force you to age the wine yourself.) Thus, in your case, from experience, I think that the bottle funk will blow off in a couple of minutes after you pour it in the glass and it will be ready to go. But just in case, stand it up for a while and pour carefully. As far as stocking up - if you want to get some, it's hard to beat the 2001 and 2004 vintages as a general rule. Some producers didn't do well as always, but I put my own money on those. And 2005 too, although when I recently tasted a number of the 2005s vs 2004s, they were not nearly as enjoyable. 2004 is a richer more approachable vintage. The 2005s are sometimes tighter and more acidic seeming. Don't know if that's the "official' word, but it's been the case on numerous occasions. So I think both would be excellent to cellar, although the 2005 actually needs it whereas the 2004 is a little like the 1995 - good now or whenever. I have some friends who call the 94, 95, 96 vintages the "golden trio". What I can tell you is that from some producers, 1981 or 1982 or 1989 are just excellent today and I have no reason to think that the mid 90s wines won't be just as good or long-lasting. And for some producers, the wines from the 1970s are great too. I have some at home from 1968 and 1973 and they're just fine - mature and should be finished sometime soon. Oldest Valdemar I've had was only 20 years though, so I can't say a lot about that other than point out the year, grape, and style. They're not necessarily the first rank producer, but in good vintages are just fine. It was one of the first wines I used to buy years ago.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Air Time by GregT

  
  
• 

  September 2009

  Beyond The Grape Winery Hurricane 5 Aka Category 5 NV

  Snoothrank: Starting at $23^.99

  I love this wine an have been looking for it for quite sometime, Im waiting until it becomes avalible in ontario again soon.

  Wine review by Tracycategory5

  
  

• August 2009

  Benziger – Making a difference one vine at a time. When you visit the Benziger Estate vineyards you know something special is going on. The sight of so many vineyard blocks carefully eased into each contour of this beautiful slice of Sonoma Valley, just west of the hamlet of Glen... Read moreBenziger - Making a difference one vine at a time. When you visit the Benziger Estate vineyards you know something special is going on. The sight of so many vineyard blocks carefully eased into each contour of this beautiful slice of Sonoma Valley, just west of the hamlet of Glen Ellen, is only the first indication of how much thought and care is going into the cultivation of these grapes. What sets Benziger apart? Family Owned There is one simple reason for all this care and deliberation: Benziger remains a family owned and operated winery. From the first day Mike and Mary Benziger drove up London Ranch Road and discovered the overgrown land that was to be transformed into the Benziger Estate on Sonoma Mountain, to the present day, the family has remained intimately involved with the day-to-day operations of the winery. The fact is that three generations of Benzigers have worked to make the winery what it is today. The youngest, embodied by Mike and Mary’s daughter Erinn, is as determined as any to continue to curate this land to ensure that future generations are able to enjoy the natural beauty of Sonoma Mountain and make wines that will live up to the proud reputation that the currant generations have established for the Benziger Family Winery. Biodynamic Farming Mike Benziger was one of the pioneering winemakers in California’s biodynamic movement. Biodynamics is a philosophy that treats all parts of an agricultural enterprise like elements of a single living, breathing entity. The theory posits that by fostering the health of the environment one can increase the vibrancy and quality of the production of that environment. In many ways a return to a simpler, more intuitive style of farming that abandons much of the commercial “progress” of the past century in favor of traditional methods that deliver unique, site-specific flavors, and more importantly, are sustainable. Gone, for example, are the monoculture vineyards, replaced by vines inter-planted with species that foster the development of vibrant populations of beneficial, predatory animals. These outposts are linked via pathways to allow these animals free access to all of the estate. Simple changes such as the re-introduction of these natural predators can have profound effects on the landscape that extends beyond the immediate benefits of crop diversification. To help further attract these beneficial predators, owl boxes and bat houses where placed within these oasis creating wildlife sanctuaries. The combined effect of harnessing these symbiotic animals and their ferocious appetite was the elimination of commercial pesticides, yet another tenet of Biodynamics. Adhering to the principles of Biodynamics requires the elimination of commercial fertilizers. The Benzigers use composted materials from the farm, grape canes from annual pruning, pomace from the previous years harvest, as well as manure from the farm’s goats and cattle, to replace nutrients that have pulled from the ground. This effort to “close the loop” extends to the estate’s water management system as well. Waste water from the wineries operations is captured and feed through a series of reclamation ponds were the water is filtered so that it can be used for irrigation, lowering the impact the winery makes on it’s surrounding. While much of Biodynamics is focused on maintaining the health of the estate as a distinct entity, the Benziger family is well aware of the impact they may have on the world around them and are working to limit that impact. While much of the fruit used to produce Benziger wines comes from the Estate, the family also relies on contract growers to supply fruit. In an effort to extend their impact beyond the confines of the Sonoma Mountain Estate the Benziger family has helped myriad growers move away from commercial farming techniques by incentivizing a switch to less impactful farming methods. Sustainable and Organic Benziger encourages its partner growers to move gradually from commercial farming to sustainable farming through a program they call Farming for Flavors™. The hope and goal is that each grower will eventually adopt the ever more stringent rules of organic and ultimately biodynamic farming. While the environmental impact is always at the forefront of these efforts, the simple fact is that the quality of the fruit improves as growers move away from commercial techniques. That exceptional grape quality makes the effort profitable, thus attracting and motivating growers to participate in the program. While this may extend beyond the recognized principles of Biodynamics, the effort to move people away from chemical pesticides and commercial fertilizers embodies the spirit of Biodynamics and illustrates the commitment the family has to the impact their winemaking leaves on the world around them. Winemaking plays its part The Benziger philosophy starts, not surprisingly, in the vineyards. Their faith in Biodynamics not only represents their belief that it is better for the soil, but also their belief that as a farming system it produces better, more site specific wines. They strive to capture this specificity, or terroir as it is frequently referred to, by practicing a low impact form of winemaking that begins among the vines. Grapes are harvested early in the day while still cool, and sorted before being crushed. Each block of the vineyard is fermented separately and with it’s own natural yeasts, a further allowing each site to fully express its unique traits. These individual lots are then aged and eventually blended to produce the wines that define the Benziger Estate style: Bold yet balanced, complex and elegant expressions of a people, a place and a time captured and to be shared with friends and, above all, family. Great Wines, Better pricing I was fortunate to be able to spend some time at Benziger during my recent visit to Sonoma, and got the opportunity to taste through several of their wines with winemaker Rodrigo Soto. Rodrigo is a recent addition to the Benziger team charged with further developing their Farming for Flavors™ program. His passion for wine was as obvious as his commitment to improving the program that has established Benziger as a leader in the return to intelligent, sustainable, low impact farming. If you are not familiar with Benziger this is your chance to get to know them. They should not only be admired for their efforts at improving the health of their vineyards, and the world around them, but also for the wines they produce. For a limited time they are extending fantastic discounts to Snooth members. I urge you to take advantage of this compelling offer. As a further incentive Benziger will upgrade your shipping from ground to 2nd day air when you buy a case of wines, 12 bottles solid or mixed. This deal expires Saturday, September 26, 2009 so make sure and get your order in before then and enjoy great saving and that free upgrade to 2nd day air shipping. It’s a deal that can’t be beat! 2005 Benziger Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County Normally: $49.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $24.50 Distinctly ripe on the nose with a light overlay of subtle oak and spicy, licorice nuances. This is full bodied and chunky in the mouth with a jammy, blackberry core and light notes of vanilla and cedary spice adding complexity. 89pts View Details 2006 San Remo Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Normally: $49.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $34.00 With lovely red fruits on the nose edged with cola, balsamic and dried meat tones this is open knit and attractively perfumed. Very fresh in the mouth with a soft texture that is so perfectly balanced by the slightly candied cranberry fruit tones that this fairly slides down the throat. There are nice nuances of sassafras and Mexican chocolate spice tones on the finish. This is perfect for current consumption and while it may not be the biggest, baddest Pinot on the block it makes up for it by being a simply delicious and fresh bottle. 91pts View Details 2005 Benziger 'Oonapais' Estate Sonoma Mountain Red, Sonoma Mountain Normally: $50.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $30.00 Initially revealing subtle smoky scents over sweet, dark, earthy fruit lightly threaded with woodspice, green herb, and seaweed tones this gains intensity that follows through on the palate. Big and polished in the mouth with a deep, velvety texture that features well-integrated acids contributing volume in the mouth. Rich and very fruity with notes of coffee, pine, and earth framing the dark wild berry fruits that lead to a great, mouthwatering finish full of dark cherry flavors and edged with cedar and spicy peppery nuances. This is a great value. It includes some of the wine that was intended to be part of Benziger’s top of the line bottling, Tribute, but just didn’t make the final cut. Already drinking very well this has definite upside potential over the next 3-5 years. 93pts View Details 2006 Benziger 'Obsidian Point' Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Mountain Normally: $65.00Exclusive Snooth pricing: $49.00 Clear and high toned aromatics greet the nose with well integrated oak tones juxtaposed against complex green coffee bean, herb, cocoa tones with a light suggest of underbrush. This is seamless in the mouth with superb ripe tannins and plenty of acidity to add brightness to the dark, spicy fruit on the palate. The purity of the black currant fruit is admirable with a really well defined mineral note that powers through the back end and leads to a tapering, long finish. This is wonderfully balanced and really transparent if a little tight at this point. Better to leave this for 2-3 years allowing it to blossom and fulfill all it’s potential. 94pts View Details   Summer Shipping Alert Due to warm weather across the nation, Benziger will upgrade all orders of 12 bottles or more to 2-Day Air shipping for no extra charge. (Except orders within Calif.) Also while the warm weather persists, Benziger will only ship wines on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Benziger ships to the following states: AK, CA, CO, DC, FL, GA, HI, IA, ID, IL, KS, MN, MO, NC, ND, NE, NH, NM, NV, NY, OR, SC, TX, VA, VT, WA, WI, WV, WY For shipping to CT, IN, LA & MI, please call Benziger's offices at: 800-989-8890 The offer also includes free upgraded from UPS Ground to 2nd Day air on Case purchases (can be mixed). This special promotion expires September 26, 2009    (hide)

  From the article Benziger - Leading the way on Sonoma Mountain

  
  

• August 2009

  Not sure how much influence the Gulf Stream has on Hungary, Austria, Croatia, etc. There are some that claim it extensively influences the troposphere, others that claim the influence is not so much. In any event grapevines tend to prefer maybe 100 or more days of sun with daytime... Read moreNot sure how much influence the Gulf Stream has on Hungary, Austria, Croatia, etc. There are some that claim it extensively influences the troposphere, others that claim the influence is not so much. In any event grapevines tend to prefer maybe 100 or more days of sun with daytime temps under 95°F or 35°C. Cooler nights seem to be better for the resulting wine. And those conditions are found right around the 45th parallel. However, I didn't say that all grapes must ONLY be grown on that parallel, I said that they grow around it. Move up or down much beyond ten degrees and you don't find as much. I mentioned that as you get much cooler or warmer climes, you change what you grow. If you can find conditions elsewhere that approximate those along the 45th, you can produce wine. Mendoza can produce grapes because in spite of their latitude, they've got some of the highest elevations on earth. Mosel doesn't ripen grapes because of the Gulf Stream, they ripen the grapes because they get the warmth of reflected sun from the river up to the hillsides. Michigan at the Leelanau Penninsula is roughly the same latitude as Bordeaux, but Bordeaux is at sea level and they're considerably elevated, so obviously don't grow the same grapes but of course, as they're right on the 45th, they do in fact grow grapes. Australia is influenced by the Arctic currents and in spite of that, they sure do seem to be a hot-climate producer, which makes perfect sense as they're roughly comparable to the south of Spain. So he wanted a short couple of talking points. If you want to talk about sun-hours, grape metabolism, soil types, microclimates, etc., that's all very interesting but a bit much for a simple answer. If it's clearer, one can say that grapes grow roughly between 35 and 55 degrees north or south. Both new and old world. The vines have specific requirements that determine where they grow.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic If you had to give a lecture... by GregT

  
  

• August 2009

  That question can't really be answered. I'll give you a list I like, someone else will give you a list he or she likes, and you'll end up with a random assortment that won't do you much more good than simply going into a store and buying randomly. If you want to understand the... Read moreThat question can't really be answered. I'll give you a list I like, someone else will give you a list he or she likes, and you'll end up with a random assortment that won't do you much more good than simply going into a store and buying randomly. If you want to understand the grape, you could do a lot worse than buying the Washington wines - Columbia Crest and it's big brother, Chateau St Michelle. The former is about $8 and the latter $14 or so, but worth the difference in price IMO. And there are a number from up there that are perfect examples of decent, drinkable, merlot - Canoe Ridge, Cougar Crest, etc. Chile makes some inexpensive ones but the only one I would drink is Casa Lapostole Cuvee Alexander - it's about $18 or so. Moving up in price, Whitehall Lane Reserve is plummy and delicious really, as is Stelzner's and any number of others. You can pay $50 or so for Pride. Most great cab producers produce a decent merlot. And then you can buy Petrus from Bordeaux, which is about $1600 or so. What you might try is to buy the merlot and the cabernet sauvingon of some of the above producers. Taste side by side and you'll see the difference in the grapes. Then take differing amounts of one blended with the other. That's what winemakers do. They often soften the cab with a bit of merlot, or toughen up the merlot with a bit of cab. See what combo you like. And remember that in the US, you can call something merlot or syrah or whatever, but it need not be 100%. And then move beyond merlot. Cheers.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Which Merlots are good? by GregT

  
  

prev 1 2 3 4 next