B3 Wines Winery

• September 2009

  In Valencia you can find: Tienda Verema Address: Calle de Seneca 7, 46021 Valencia Contact: Tel: (+34) 963697977 Fax: (+34) 647476569 They carry a fairly typical, quite modern selection of wines but here are some of the more interesting selections... Read moreIn Valencia you can find: Tienda Verema Address: Calle de Seneca 7, 46021 Valencia Contact: Tel: (+34) 963697977 Fax: (+34) 647476569 They carry a fairly typical, quite modern selection of wines but here are some of the more interesting selections http://tienda.verema.com/4_29_796_1_2/Alion%202004%20-%20Bodegas%20y%20Vi%C3%B1edos%20Ali%C3%B3n.htm http://tienda.verema.com/4_29_619_1_2/Casa%20de%20la%20Ermita%20Petit%20Verdot%202004.htm http://tienda.verema.com/4_29_784_1_2/Frontos%20tinto%20Clasico%20Baboso%20Negro%202007.htm http://tienda.verema.com/4_29_667_1_2/Prado%20Enea%20Gran%20Reserva%202000.htm http://tienda.verema.com/4_29_851_1_2/Mauro%202006%20-%20Bodegas%20Mauro%20.htm http://tienda.verema.com/4_29_751_1_2/Aalto%202005.htm http://tienda.verema.com/4_29_734_1_2/Pintia%202005.htm    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Wine on the ground in... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• August 2009

  !http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2553/3874571299_1cd4d7c77d_o.jpg! What: Bidding begins for charity auction When: Now through September 10th. Where: online: http://www.hdhwine.com/content.cfm/content.cfm?ContentAlias=charitycatalog&ioa=1 Why: (Straight from the email:) "On... Read more!http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2553/3874571299_1cd4d7c77d_o.jpg! What: Bidding begins for charity auction When: Now through September 10th. Where: online: http://www.hdhwine.com/content.cfm/content.cfm?ContentAlias=charitycatalog&ioa=1 Why: (Straight from the email:) "On Thursday, September 10th, we will be holding our annual charity wine auction benefiting Camp Independence. The auction features a variety of collectible wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and California. Highlights include a case of 1986 Château Mouton Rothschild, 1995 Dom Pérignon in jeroboam and a Chicago Fine Dining Package. We hope you are able to participate and support this important cause." "Online bidding will close at 12:00pm CDT, Thursday, September 10th. Please submit bids prior to this time. To arrange phone bidding please contact Marc Smoler at 312.482.9766 or email him at msmoler@hdhwine.com." Some Highlights: Chateau Margaux Vertical Château Margaux 1982 (1 b) Château Margaux 1983 (1 b) Château Margaux 1985 (1 b) Château Margaux 1990 (1 b) Château Margaux 1996 (1 b) Araujo Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Eisele Vineyards Araujo Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Eisele Vineyards 1994 (1 mag) Araujo Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Eisele Vineyards 1998 (1 dbl mag (3L)) Araujo Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Eisele Vineyards 2000 (1 dbl mag (3L)) Araujo Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Eisele Vineyards 2003 (1 mag) Araujo Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Eisele Vineyards 2004 (1 mag) Three magnums and two double magnums (3L) (You get the picture).    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Bidding now open for... by ChipDWood

  
  

• August 2009

  The rare wine company just released their current newsletter with the 2004 Capellano Barolo... Read moreThe rare wine company just released their current newsletter with the 2004 Capellano Barolo offer.http://rs6.net/tn.jsp?et=1102679813201&s=4252&e=001B2sxU6UcKB1IgFKKbL_HFAurWHndnzoTRje0FHZMnxEb1ce_WwZpXGlfCqPnzp1Ge_br-vnBeHt415GdU557LvrSTrluhmC3iLK4jDhHily6b0NDkDxU5GYZKVzHLgMU4-DZrel37uTH9AWBMvbPauqWOo7WIzSaVzKKynj9RSI= The prices are the best I have seen. The wines outrageously good from cask. 2004 Barolo Rupestris from botte - What a huge nose, redolent of frutti di bosco with violets hint and a feral, earthy, animal driven character. Bright with acids in the mouth, packed with dense fruit and grippy, angular tannins. While very fruit driven the midpalate is full of crisp, black mineral tones. Excellent concentration and balance. Finishes with grippy tannins and power to spare, very pure and clean. Exceptional wine. http://www.snooth.com/wine/cappellano-barolo-pie-rupestris-2004/ 2004 Barolo Pie Franco from botte - More sudbued on the nose than the Rupestris yet sharing it’s feral quality with a more autumnal quality to the aromatics leaning towards tobacco and earth note before blooming into a full on sottobosco array. Elegant in the mouth but with excellent concentration of fruit, tons of fine grained tannins with sweet fruit just peaking out from the wall of tannin. Bright acidity supports almond skin/amaretto tinged wild berry fruit that finishes with strong minerality and grace notes of tobacco and cocoa. The finish is full and long and strikes a fine baloance between sweet fruit and aggressive and refreshing minerality. Exceptional wine. http://www.snooth.com/wine/cappellano-barolo-pie-franco-2004/ I have no affiliation with The Rare Wine Company nor with Cappellano other than my being a very satisfied customer of both. I offer this up simply as a recommendation of a great deal on a potentially monumental wine.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic PSA It's expensive but a deal by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• July 2009

  California’s Sierra foothills appellation spans across some of the least heralded great wine producing regions of the state. Unlike Napa and Sonoma, Cabernet Sauvignon did not serve as a historic touchstone here, though the history of wine production is almost as long. In contrast... Read moreCalifornia’s Sierra foothills appellation spans across some of the least heralded great wine producing regions of the state. Unlike Napa and Sonoma, Cabernet Sauvignon did not serve as a historic touchstone here, though the history of wine production is almost as long. In contrast to the hype and glitter of “newer” regions propelled to fame by faddish whims, the Sierra Foothills continue to stake their claim to fame on old vine Zinfandel, as they did during the gold rush, as well as newer plantings of grapes from across Europe that adapt well to the favorable climate of the region. photo courtesy of: El Dorado Winery Association The fact that these counties, eight in total, three in particular, from north to south El Dorado, Amador and Calaveras counties, are leading the way in planting exciting, new to the state, varieties, captures the pioneer spirit that continues to infuse not only the people of these beautiful hills but also the wine they produce. For example, as opposed to competing with the so much of the state, not to mention the world, by planting Cabernet Sauvignon (not that Cabernet doesn’t have it’s spots in this ranging AVA) one finds Rhone style blends based on Grenache and Syrah, Vermentino, Sangiovese, and even Tempranillo!  This “prospecting for riches” carries over a long tradition, going back to Sutter’s mill and the original 49er’s, that’s 1849, who braved the variable climate of this rugged region in search of gold. Today’s gold comes more frequently in a bottle, and some is even of the golden persuasion. All the wines of the region share a certain character that expresses the unique terroir of this interesting AVA that admittedly crosses many county borders as it travels from meso-climate to meso-climate.  One reason for such an extensive AVA is that the rolling foothills here are the key to providing welcome relief from the heat of California’s central valley. This slice of the foothills, where vines thrive in the moderate climate between 1400 and 3000 feet of elevation, is double blessed. Not only do the warm days and cool night preserve the acidity in the grapes but these conditions also extend the growing season by slowing down the ripening during the final days of the growing season. This is especially beneficial with Zinfandel since the grape clusters on many Zinfandel vines tend to have berries of varying ripeness as harvest approaches. These hillsides are also blessed with a variety of soil types that give the wines produced here a distinctive character.  Around the 2000-foot level many patches of decomposed granite are to be found. These poor soils offer great drainage forcing the vines to struggle a bit for their survival, yielding fruit that, when mature, gives rich, rugged flavors and balanced structure to the wines they produce. At higher elevations several regions have soils of volcanic origin that can add a spicy tone to the wines and a crispness to the tannins that makes them distinct and unique additions to the pantheon of California wine. Situated as they are between the heavily populated coastal areas of northern California and the rich beauty of the Sierra Nevada range, the foothill wineries are ideally located to be part of a true California adventure. Escaping from the herd mentality that drive tourists to Napa, Sonoma and San Francisco provides that savvy wine tripper not only a chance to taste great wines at a pace more akin to that of 1950 but serves as a gateway to some of the most impressive natural beauty one is able to find in the vast land of ours. So next time you’re thinking of a California vacation consider adding the Sierra Foothills and visits to Yosemite to your plans.  I know I will. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Amador Foothill Winery -  Leading the way with innovative wines! With plantings that range from Aglianico to Zinfandel, it should come as no surprise that Amador Foothill Winery is leading the way with innovative wines from the Sierra Foothills. From Rose to Rhone Blend, and never forgetting the Zinfandel, this is a winery that delivers. Amador Foothill 2008 Rosato of Sangiovese Amador  13.5%  Soil, oil, dusty earth, pollen, wild raspberry, lovely subtle spice ad herb tones,  a tuch of leather, a bit of Swedish fish, wild cherry+,  A touch sweet up front then the wash of acid cuts through the weight leaving very pure wild berry fruit tones, great interplay of acid/fruit on the palte, really zippy style with duge refreshing acids that lead to a brick finish full or wild raspberry tones with hints of earth and spice.  A lighter style in the mouth and a great rose that may lack a touch of complexity but more than makes up for it with it’s extremely pretty pure fruit and texture that makes you want to drink more. A great rose 92pts ~ ~~ ~ Amador Foothill  Winery 2006 Katies Cote Shenandoah Valley  14.4% Lots of cigar box and sweet vanilla laced tones on the nose dominate the blackberry and black plum note though intriguing notes of violet, black pepper and thyme slowly emerge from the glass.  Slinky entry is immediately delicious with crisp herb inflected black fruits that have great intensity yet are not clumsy or thick. The wood adds a bit too much sweetness here yet the ample spice tones with hints of cinnamon, black pepper and juniper add a nice contrast on the back end. This finishes with a touch too much wood induced sweetness again but the tannins are lovely and crisp so this should take another year or two of age well, allowing the wood tones to soften and integrate. Very aromatic and cedary in the mouth at times, this is a rich, gutsy wine with good promise. 51% Syrah/49% Grenache 88pts ~ Bantam Cellars - A new winery making Shenandoah wine scene. With only 3 vintages under their belt bantam Cellars are the new kids on the block. Following in the path blazed before them they are offering an array of Mediterranean varieties yet continue the great tradition that Zinfandel has developed in the region. Bantam cellars 2008 Vermentino  Amador County12.5% Quite intense mineral, almond, pear and light spiced white peach fruit on the nose. This is lovely and balanced on the nose. Good acids, a touch grapey fruit, quite grapey fruity in fact but with lemon shaded juicy Asian pear notes that are rich and satisfying.  Finishes with a touch of raspy mineral, a hint of gooseberry and surprising length. A delicious wine perfect for casual sipping and light fair. 88pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ C. G. di Arie - From the creator of Cap’n Crunch, no kidding! Set to celebrate their first decade in business C.G di Arie makes the most of their estate fruit. With the major red varieties planted here at 1700 feet the focus here is on getting a consistent expression from these vines while relying on partner grower sto provide top-quality fruit for their non-estate wines. G D di Arie 2008 Sauvignon Banc Shenandoah valley 13.8% Starts out with sweetish notes of powdered sugar a sage that are joined by tropical fruit notes.  Soft and broad in the mouth with a velvety texture and juicy orchard fruit tones. A simple wine in an easy to drink style 85pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ G D Di Arie 2008 Rose Di Arie  Sierra Foothills 13.7% Earthy sweet raspberries and fleshy black grape tones right off the bat are joined by a touch of herbs, black pepper and peach fruit.  A rich, soft style with tones of sweet red currant and plum fruit tones that are a touch spicy and hold a nice earthy center. Rich and fruity with a touch of RS yet also a nice hint of tannin to add some contrast to the texture. A touch sticky on the finish but with lingering jammy blackberry tones. If you love a fruity rose this is for you.  50% Syrah/40% Tempranillo/10% Zinfandel 86pts  ~ ~~ ~ Cooper Vineyards - Offering a complete array of wines Cooper Vineyards produces and impressive line-up of wines encompassing 17 varieties. From Pinot Grigio and Roussanne to Cabernet and Zinfandel, naturally, there is a wine for every palate. And in that inclusive spirit one can also find a pair of dessert wines, one white, and one red to tempt your taste buds. Cooper vineyards 2008 Pinot Grigio Amador 14.9% Rather intense citrus zest and ripe herb notes with lovely floral top notes some alcohol shows but surprising well-balanced nose.  Lots of sweet fruit up front, green berries and green plum combine with a rich, plush mouthfeel to produce a rather unusual wine. One that feels over-ripe yet maintains surprisingly good freshness of flavor; inner mouth perfume is very sweet with notes of green tea and jasmine. The wine lacks some freshening acidity but is bursting with apricot and almost guava tones. The alcohol is more apparent in the mouth but this still manages to pull it off. The finish is a touch short but this is quite an interesting wine, though certainly not for everyone. 88pts ~ Deaver Vineyards -  Four generations and 150 years later still going strong! If any name should be associated with the wines of the Sierra Foothills it should be Deaver. With a proud lineage extending back to the first years of wine production in the region it’s no surprise that Deaver continues to be at the forefront with great new Italian and Rhone varietals as well as the classics. Deaver Vineyards 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Amador 13.3% Light kiwi and grassy notes on the nose, fresh almost earthy clumps of sod tones that are less herbal than manner SB. Bright zesty and fresh on entry with a very lively and refreshing mouthfeel. Classic medium bodied Sauvignon Blanc feel with modestly fruity flavors and a nice hint of lemon pith and sweet grapefruit that leads to a medium length finish. Actually has good persistence to the modest flavors but the appeal here is drinkability. 86pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Deaver Vineyards 2007 Sierra Foothills Chardonnay with an ATTITUDE 14.5% Smells lemony and floral like some Muscat or Viognier made it into the blend.  The fruit is citrussy and the nose quite high pitched with salty undertones and a touch of honey, toasted spices and green anise seed.  Rich yet lively in the mouth with an impression of sweetness accentuating the deep fruit yellow fruit tones. A mouthfilling wine but well balanced with interesting layers of citrus and peach fruit.. Very clean and crisp on the finish with a touch of lingering almost coffee like toasted spice 88pts ~ ~~ ~ Deaver Viognier 2007 Amador County 14% Smells sweet with a leather fruit tone that recalls dried apricot, a hint of lanolin and a touch of water chestnut add some complexity. This gains a nice pale honey note with hints of pollen and light tobacco. Very light with an attractive airy quality even though the wine is noticeably viscous with obvious RS., but it is well balanced by the integrated acidity. Lovely honied flavors of quince, candied lime and peach round out thee mouth. The finish is a bit gentle but with nice feathery complexity and a very friendly disposition. The sweetness is a bit much for a table wine but this finishes fairly read more...dryly so it can work but is better suited as a very light dessert wine particularly well structured for a cheese course. 90pts   Deaver Vineyards NV Orange Muscat Amador 12.5% Gorgeously fragrant nose full of black tea, orange blossom, light passion fruit and pink grapefruit tones. Really intense and fresh and gently frizzante with a honied tone to the warm citrus fruit tones and  an easy appeal. Some tea notes add a bit of depth but this is a rather sweet and slightly rich style of Moscato with long honied flavors yet not much detail. 85pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Ironestone Vineyards - A pioneer growing premium grapes in the Foothills. Ironstone Vineyards is one of the Sierra Foothill’s premium producers of Bordeaux blends. By intelligently adding small amounts of blending grapes and allowing the wines time to age in barrel in the deep, cool caverns under the winery, Ironstone has created nuanced wines in a satisfyingly smooth style. Ironstone 2006 Cabernet Franc Reserve Sierra Foothills 14.5% Dark, toasty, grilled fruit notes with spicy herbs lurking, and something very meaty about this wine, Nicely gamy smells like grilling lamb over eucalyptus. Lush in the mouth with lots of rich fruit, plums, cassis, black cherry with hints of dried tomato, herb, mint, and oak,. Very nicely balanced both texturally and favor wise with there is a touch of barbq sauciness on the backend but the bright cherry tones and light vanilla note power through and dominate the long finish. A big velvety richly fruited yet fresh wine with a touch of earth at its core, and just a hint of mint chocolate shavings helping read more...to frame the fruit. Certainly is ripe Cab France 89pts ~ Ironstone 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Sierra Foothills 14.5% Reticent and minty with an interesting mineral edge to the nose, smells granitic.  A touch leaner and more transparent than the CF with a redder fruit profile. Bright acids and nicely measured tannin yield a firmly medium plus bodied wine with a touch of cola/root beer spice helping to frame the astringent red fruits. The wood is really well integrated here and while this is neither super complex or super rich (a good thing) it is very well behaved in the mouth. Not particularly varietal either but rich, polished and fruity. A well-made and enjoyably drinkable wine that finishes a touch short with a Mexican cocoa note.87pts. ~ ~~ ~ Morse Wines -  A leader in Rhone varieties from the Sierra Foothills Morse Wines is a new label being utilized by the Il Gioiello Winery to differential their Rhone Varietals from their Italian bottlings. Determined to make a name for both schools in the Foothills, Morse offer carefully crafted small lots of wines that offer a new interpretation of French Classics. Morse 2007 Ensemble Blanc 55% Viognier/45% Roussanne Sierra Foothills 15.1% A bit slow to open with soft floral tones married to deep, almost honied, quite smoky baked banana peel, and preserved lemon tones, Gains a big acacia tone with air. Rich with good acidity and a nice mineral edge to the deep orchard fruit tones. Real snap to the flavors and fine balance with rather restrained kwi and goosebbery notes that gain the upper hand on the back end with an interesting candied floral top note and lingering sweet/mineral tension on the moderate finish. Excellent complexity and balance in this very solid wine. 90pts  ~ ~~ ~ Shenandoah Vineyards- A pioneering winery in California’s Shenandoah Valley With a broad array of small lot reserve wines, Shenandoah Vineyards offers a complimentary line-up to the Sobon family’s eponymous winery. Actually the first of the 2 brands Shenandoah Vineyards continues as a leading producer of wines that represent a classic style that can only be associated with California’s Shenandoah Valley. Shenandoah Vineyards 2007 Special Reserve Zinfandel Amador 14.4% Subtle and soft blackberries, peach and black plum skins contrast with a hint of baking spice and coconutty oak tones on the nose.   Very sweetly fruited entry, nice balance with good acidity and very soft tannins give the moderately spicy but very fruity style with a soft, friendly feel.  Full of sweet, vanilla toned black plum and blackberry fruit, on the short finish. Classic Amador Zin though. 86 pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Sobon - a family affair dedicated to sustainable farming, and great wine! The Sierra Foothill’s forte has always been their deep, flavorful old vine Zinfandel. Many of these hillside vineyards were originally planted to supply the 49ers and now are gloriously mature. Sobon has consistently captured the wonderful fruit of these vines, allowing them to express themselves in classic style. Sobon Estate 2008 Roussanne Amador 14.1% Great nose, lots of boiled chestnuts and toasted chestnut shells, intense with a noticeable yet integrated oak backdrop. Lilacs, white pepper and very light mangosteen fruit.  Decidedly soft in the mouth with a rich, viscous feel and initial honied fruit note that yields to an almost strawberry tinged mid-palate with rich orange tones and a touch of butter cream.  The finish returns to a more citrussy vein with a nicely floral inner mouth perfume of almost tropical orange blossoms. Big rich balanced and different this is a winner 90pts ~ ~~ ~ Sobon Estate ReZerve 2008 Rose Amador 13.6% Mineral, strawberry, herb and roast pork with a hint of rosemary and a hint of flowers on the nose give this a succulent and savory appeal.  Dry and crisp with good focus in the mouth. This is a touch tight even with a subtle richness and lovely, slightly tannic red berry and sweet pomegranate tones with a touch of papaya and papaya seed spice. Wonderful fruit and subtle spice tones linger on the moderately long finish. Great balance and freshness here make this really lovely. Grenache/Syrah/Carignan 90pts ~ ~~ Sobon Estate 2007 Old Vines Zinfandel Amador 14.9% A touch of fudge and moist earth with lovely brambly notes of sapwood, herb and wild black raspberry fruit edged with a touch of pipe tobacco. Pure black raspberry fruit on entry, very good acids, lots of sweet fruit here, nice top notes of briar and bramble. Nice purity of well-expressed yet uncomplicated fruit. A wine for drinking, not for thinking about. Finishes with a slightly jammier tone and more wood spice but still nicely balanced and fresh 87pts ~ ~~ ~ Story Winery - A lovely white surprise from a great Zin producer. Story Winery has made a name for themselves producing small lots of old-vine Zinfandel from great vineyard sites in Amador county.  In true pioneer spirit they have also explored several white wines enjoying the fruit from these unusual head-pruned and dry farmed vineyards. Story Winery 2007 Chenin Blanc Shenandoah  15% A touch funky right out of the bottle with notes of caramel, butterscotch and quince paste over a funky chalky earth, seashell and herb base. Deceptively light bodied with gentle flavors of apple, apple butter and pressed flowers slowly building in the glass. Holds its 15% amazing well. The subtle flavors power through on the medium length finish adding notes or biter orange marmalade and a light cashew brittle tone. Before gaining a nice mouth grabbing chalky tone again. A very subtle wine that will rise to the occasion pairing well with a wide variety of foods. 87pts ~ ~~ Story Winery 2006 Picnic Hill Old Vines Zinfandel Shenandoah  Valley 16% Light vanilla tones are backed by lots of astringent red fruits, red currant and pomegranate, with a hint of herb and roast meatiness.  Enters with sweet red fruits, slightly exotic berries fruits, fruit di bosco, nice freshness and good balance that help to hide it’s 16% Very candied but in a fresh way, sugared raspberries with a peppery cinnamon edge for balance, Nice crisp tannins and a lovely stemmy tone add length to the finish.  88pts ~ ~~ ~ Story Winery 2006 Creekside Vineyard Old Vines Zinfandel 16% Really briary aromas in the glass are joined by smoky earth tones and reduced wild raspberry notes with hints of lightly spiced cranberry and orange rind.  Rich and velvety, this has power and depth with a slightly sweet character that accentuates the rich wild cherry and astringent, spicy red fruit tones. A mouthfilling wine that is a touch minty and medicinal on the finish with a nice tannic bite that helps balance the RS. This is a monster wine; serve it with cheese or instead of dessert. Really spicy notes gain prominence on the midpalate.  Finishes with a really intense red hots tone. A divisive wine for sure but it’s pretty cool. 90pts ~ ~~ ~ Story Winery 2006 Alitia Vineyard Zinfandel Shenandoah Valley 16% Smells like leather and ass and not in a bad way. Slow to open, with slightly buttery licorice tinged tight black fruit. Tight concentrated and velvety with a deep savory core folded up with black currant and dry, not terrible sweet mulberry fruit. This is reticent yet with excellent balance that gives it an elegance that their other wines lack. Shares a touch of that peppery cinnamon with lovely dried herb notes and lots of potential but this needs another year to express itself. 88pts ~ ~~ Vino Noceto - This Tuscan styled estate is a relative newcomer to the region. Recognizing that the climate of Amador County’s Shenandoah Valley was Mediterranean in nature, family owned Vino Noceto took a brave and unique path, choosing to focus on premium Sangiovese based wine as opposed to sticking to the Zinfandel roots of the region. Noceto 2008 Pinot Grigio Clarksburg/Amador 13% Light rainwater, clay and floral tones on the nose give this an airy note before they are joined by fragrant pear fruit with a hint of dried pineapple.  Round and soft but not flabby, in fact nicely balanced on a rich if medium bodied frame that supports soft, juicy fruit flavors with grace notes of mint and almond and herb that lead to a slightly sweet finish that hints at baked apple with a nice almond tone. 86 ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Noceto 2006 Sangiovese Shenandoah Valley 14% Very intense sweet cherry, vanilla and soft toast notes greet the nose.  There is a slight medicinal note that combines with the black cherry fruit to give this a slight cough lozenge note. A nice hint of herb adds complexity.  Big, rich sweet cherry fruit with just a hint of oak is well supported by tannins are a touch astringent, as they should be, and good acidity giving this a refreshing feel. Very medium bodied and with lightness that keeps this centered in the mouth despite the intensity of the rather simple yet pure cherry fruit. On the backend it turns a bit spice with a nice flourish of strawberry and herb adding to the long finish.  Very solid wine and great for the bar-b-q this summer. 90pts   Noceto 2008 Frivolo Moscato Bianco California 7.1% Delicious smelling with note of lemon, lime leaf, powder sugar and hints of angelica root and white tea, with a gently biscuit note. Just ever so softly frizzante with good acidity balancing the rather light, fresh citrus driven flavors. Plenty sweet but with a touch of lightness on the palate, really attractive flavors of subtle ginger inflected candied citrus fruits, with good length, lovely and freaking delicious 88pts  ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Gregory Dal Piaz Community Manager Snooth    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Strike it rich in the Sierra... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• July 2009

  We'll be blind tasting some red wines this Thursday 7/16 in our Conference room here in NYC. 4 flights of 3 wines as usual, looking like Syrah, Malbec and Zinfandel though there may be a ringer or two thrown in for good measure. If you are interested in joining us please let me... Read moreWe'll be blind tasting some red wines this Thursday 7/16 in our Conference room here in NYC. 4 flights of 3 wines as usual, looking like Syrah, Malbec and Zinfandel though there may be a ringer or two thrown in for good measure. If you are interested in joining us please let me know. It's 6:30-9 on Madison at 32st. There is no charge for this tasting.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Snooth blind tastes Bar B Q... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• June 2009

  A great idea and potentially strong feature amongst Snooth's growing bevy. I imagine a lot of work has already gone into what we now see, and even more is intended for the future. With all that, it still seems like there are a few bugs to work out at the present. I just did a quick... Read moreA great idea and potentially strong feature amongst Snooth's growing bevy. I imagine a lot of work has already gone into what we now see, and even more is intended for the future. With all that, it still seems like there are a few bugs to work out at the present. I just did a quick and dirty scan of a few arbitrary wines that I know well, listed in order of viewing: --Cakebread cabernet --Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle --Chateau Latour (Pauillac) --Chalone chardonnay I got less impressed as I went along, I'm afraid, though things shouldn't be all that hard to fix. First of all, I only saw offerings from Epicurious, a site that I've used several times as reference for dishes I want to create, so I have a feel for them. I agreed with the suitability of the dishes for Cakebread, but wondered how many people would actually make them. I disagreed with two of the three for La Chapelle, wondering about the range proferred and also the content of those two in match with the wine. Then when I went to the Latour I was surprised to see 3 chicken dishes (out of a total of three shone) offered for the '82 (one with a vinaigrette sauce!), three chicken dishes for the '70, three chicken dishes for the 2000 and two chicken dishes plus a vegetable meatloaf for the 2005 (which shouldn't be suggested for serving for years, anyway, I suppose). I then jumped to a link from the Latour page to a *'28* Chateau Mouton Rothschild. Surprise! Three chicken dishes. I don't think I'd want any food with a '28 Mouton, myself. ;-) Then I went to the Chalone chardonnay, and again surprise! Two chicken dishes and (yikes!!) a meatball hero sandwich... My idea of matches, such as in the La Chapelle case, may reflect only my sensibilities, and not be representative of any major segment of the population. But I think you might be able to quickly improve things by: a) *at least* doubling in number the sampling of recipes, b) adding sources other than Epicurious (though I realize several of the issues in keeping your partners happy), c) having some live person who really knows wine and food do the grunt work of auditing things on a regular basis, d) setting up a hotline button at the same location on the page where the recipes are cited for user feedback (being sure to respond to the feedback in some reasonable fashion), e) trying to factor in different matching requirements for a 5-year-old vs. a 40-year-old vintage of the same wine, f) perhaps adding some comments at the top of the recipe list about the philosophy behind (that is, the principles and requirements for a match with this type of wine) and elements of a match with the wine, g) while broadening the range of food-choice options, also trying to leaven the recipe mixture with a few simpler offerings to draw more people who are less into food preparation into the process, and not scare them off, and h) including proportionately less chicken, please! Not being privy to your planning, some or all of these ideas may not be entirely new. Just reacting off what I see now. Good luck with all the new work, and I'll be looking forward to seeing some inspirational matches!    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Food and Wine by dmcker

  
  

• April 2009

  So Philip, it comes down to what you are trying to accomplish with your fridge. Do you have too many bottles lying around? Is your regular fridge clogged with wine? As dmcker points out, there's no substitute for a proper cellar for aging things. The idea of leaving a Cab or Bordeaux... Read moreSo Philip, it comes down to what you are trying to accomplish with your fridge. Do you have too many bottles lying around? Is your regular fridge clogged with wine? As dmcker points out, there's no substitute for a proper cellar for aging things. The idea of leaving a Cab or Bordeaux in a fridge to age for a decade has always seemed artificial to me. Moreover, with the amount of $ spent on electricity, you could probably afford to start buying aged wines. As mentioned previously, Stephen and I picked up this http://tinyurl.com/3b8nag from the wine enthusiast a few years back. It was on sale for $199 and we went to Elmsford to pick them up (because shipping is half the price on these little suckers). However, it is clearly a rebadged Avanti that you can pick up in many places for $180 to $200 (get a zipcar and go to costco or home depot). No complaints about the little guy - the dreaded Perche thermoelectric system makes it quiet enough to survive in the living room (where it lived for 3 years). However, I don't keep anything valuable in there. I have many whites and champagnes in there, but since the system only goes down to 54 degrees, they need a little fridge or freezer time to be ready to drink... however far less than starting from room temperature. Since my regular fridge usually has a few open, but vacuvin'd bottles of white, I have removed the lower shelves of the wine fridge to allow it to hold open but vacuvin'd bottles of red wine, port, sherry, vermouth, etc standing up at 54 for mild preservative effects... but it also leaves them closer to drinking temp. Also, thanks to a tip from Greg, I've been keeping those little silica gel packets from packaging and throwing them in the back of the fridge to regulate humidity better. @dmcker - Since everything rotates through my Perche pretty quickly, I haven't seen the browning. I'd love to hear more about your experiences. Couldn't find any other Perche horror stories on the net. Maybe the newer systems are better? Doesn't make much sense since electromagnetism is electromagnetism.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Wine fridge? by RBoulanger

  
  

• March 2009

  Macaron, where are you located? I did my diploma studies through the International Wine Center in NYC. There's an increasing number of locations offering courses around the world. You can pursue the WSET Diploma one of 2 ways - self-study or attend weekly classes. It is not a... Read moreMacaron, where are you located? I did my diploma studies through the International Wine Center in NYC. There's an increasing number of locations offering courses around the world. You can pursue the WSET Diploma one of 2 ways - self-study or attend weekly classes. It is not a full-time commitment, but it does take up a sizable chunk of your free time outside of work depending on a) your study habits, b) your efficiency, c) you existing wine & spirits knowledge & d) how much you are exposed to wine (tasting especially) during your day job. N.B. - The WSET Advanced Certificate (nee Higher Certificate) is a requirement for the Diploma. This takes 1 semester with a couple of hours a week of study outside of class. If you chose self-study, the tuition fees are lower and you can study more at your own pace. You will in contact via e-mail with tutors to answer your questions and critique your work. However, this requires a lot of self-discipline and any savings on tuition will be easily eaten up by what you have to spend to purchase and taste the wines in the curriculum. At the end of each course, you'll have to go to an exam site (NYC, San Francisco, London, etc) to sit the exam. Colin Smith's excellent blog details his experience as a recent self-study Diploma student: http://grapefan.blogspot.com/ If you are attending a class, your wine tasting costs will be partially defrayed, you'll get to interact with other students, and you might get some great instructors. It will also be easier to form a study group or tasting group with your fellow students. Classes are once a week for ~3 hours in the evening. If you are really dedicated, you can finish in 18 months (Units 1 & 2 the first semester, Unit 3 or Units 4, 5, & 6 the following semesters. I found that Units 2, 4, 5 & 6 didn't require as much work outside of class (say 3 to 5 hours a week) as Units 3 and 1 (assessed by research papers) which I'm spending up to a dozen hours a week on.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic The WSET Diploma –... by RBoulanger

  
  

• March 2009

  One of the advantages of setting up a vertical w/ ‘lesser’ chateau is that it is easier to incorporate the best vintages, as opposed to going the route of tasting top chateau from less than ideal years. Grand Puy Lacoste and Pontet Canet will never get the top billing of the... Read moreOne of the advantages of setting up a vertical w/ ‘lesser’ chateau is that it is easier to incorporate the best vintages, as opposed to going the route of tasting top chateau from less than ideal years. Grand Puy Lacoste and Pontet Canet will never get the top billing of the famous firsts or super seconds in their storied commune, but they’re formidable, downright affordable Medocs that merited our attention. Our vertical encompassed top vintages, including: ’82, ’90, ’95, ’96, ’00, ’03 and ’05, which served single blind. The wines, for the most part, did not disappoint. Pontet Canet has caught fire, beginning w/ the blockbuster ’03 vintage, and hasn’t skipped a beat from ’04-’06 under proprietor Alfred Tesseron’s guidance. Although the estate’s prices have caught up to the wine’s quality, it still represents excellent value relative to its more illustrious Pauillac neighbors. I regard the ’05 as one of top 3 or so wines of the vintage for the money, and taking into consideration how stiff the competition in ’05 is, that is some lofty praise. That being said, my experience w/ Grand Puy Lacoste could be labeled as anemic at best. If this vertical left me w/ one prevailing conclusion, it is to drink more Grand Puy Lacoste. This estate’s wines were consistently showy, yet pure, and bested its streaky opponent in the majority of the vintages that we tasted. I don’t know if any Bordeaux fanatic would consider it to be an under the radar Chateau, but I can say one thing for sure…it is no longer just a blip on my screen. My blind white, from the venerable Ferret estate: I brought this for a couple reasons. First, I felt like being a bit of a weasel and tricking the crowd a bit by bringing a Burgundy (white Rhone & white Bordeaux were obvious guesses by default). Second, this is one of the final vintages made under the Ferret family label, as this estate was bought out by Domaine Jadot in ’07. The nose of subtle brioche, lanolin, honeysuckle and green fruits rose from the glass w/ brightness in pitch that sang of its structured youth. The warmth of the fig fruit enveloped the palate w/ a creamy, yet piercing profile that turned my cheeks inside out from its lively acidity. The wine finished exceptionally strong, leaving the impression of green apple skins and rocks skipping along a river stream. The ’05, Les Moulins showed beautifully, but the best is yet to come, 91+ points. The ’82 and ’90 Grand Puy Lacoste were served side by side, and their differing characteristics revealed themselves immediately. The ’82 was aromatically brilliant, w/ a perfume of freshly cut cedar, truffles, smoky plum and cherry fruit that picked up a dusty note upon palate entry. This particular bottle revealed more evolution than the one I tasted this past Saturday, drying out a bit on the compressed finish, 88 points. The ’90, on the other hand, took a bit of coaxing to reveal its beautiful core of crème de cassis, pencil lead, crushed berry and anise. The palate was exceptionally round and full, building incrementally to the broad and persistent finish, 95 points. The ‘95s were served side by side, beginning w/ the exceptionally pure Grand Puy Lacoste. Primary, yet fabulous, the palate revealed the essence of cherry fruit, as if each sip were the flesh of a cherry itself. The juicy, succulence of the flavors were framed by long, shapely tannins that were underscored by a flinty suggestion of minerals, 94 points. The Pontet Canet followed well, yet lacked the harmony and intrinsic beauty. Chunky and flashy flavors of seared beef, licorice root, blackberry, spice box and toasty oak screamed through the attack, but lost a bit of steam on the narrowing finish. Whether or not time will help stretch out this savory gem is debatable, 91+ points. As we approached the 1996 vintage, we did so under a microscope, as selecting a favorite required fairly exacting science. Both were decidedly funky, w/ the Grand Puy Lacoste revealing a wild mushroom, cassis and spicy anise nose that shifted to a soft, enveloping caress on the palate. The Pontet Canet, perhaps even gamier aromatically, possessed similar supple texture but more structure, reinforcing its plumy, cocoa flavors w/ excellent freshness and length. I put them at 91 and 92 points, respectively. We had labeled wines as A & B up to this point, but this flight had a 3rd musketeer which was dubbed as ‘?’. The first in line from the 2000 vintage was one of the biggest disappointments of the evening, with a transient nose of espresso roast & blackberry that sparked up initially, and then tucked itself away for the evening. The mouthfeel was ungenerous at best, becoming gaunt on the mid-palate, chipping away on the narrow, squat finish. Pontet Canet is certainly in a dumb phase & didn’t show me enough life to breathe much optimism into its future, 84 points? This was followed up by the exceptionally balanced, precise Grand Puy Lacoste, demonstrating that classic nose of crème de cassis just as the ’90 did. While mouth-filling and frankly opulent, the deep core of flavor never steers away from its grounded, exacting focus, 93+ points. As for the ‘?,’ it was a dark, nearly inky explosion of layer upon layer of menthol, blue and black fruits, w/ awesome palate penetration & sheer flavor authority. Perhaps in the vein of ‘under-classified’ Pauillac, Ben Goldberg tossed a 5th Growth, Lynch Bages, into the 2000 bunch, and I think it is best labeled w/ one word, powerhouse, 95+ points. Finishing things up w/ ’03 and ’05, the vintages couldn’t have formed a starker contrast. The ’03 Pontet Canet, perhaps the vintage that put this estate on my map, still has the seething, exceptionally rich nose of black cherry liqueur, sweet earth, milk chocolate and roasted nuts that I found enticing a few years back. While the entry is creamy and fat, the palate takes a shrill turn, as the flesh that I once adored is a bit hidden, completely exposing the underbelly of the wine on the grippy, almost mouth-searing finish. The Grand Puy Lacoste’s ’03 was doomed from the start, smelling of Turley’s Juvenile Zinfandel cuvee w/ its brambly, wild berry fruit which receded in the palate faster than Andre Agassi’s hairline. At this point, the finishes are really killing the ‘03s, w/o the exuberant make-up to hide their drying, almost coarse tannic shells. Rating these wines in this state of their evolution isn’t exactly fair, but the superiority of the Pontet Canet is obvious and bears noting. The ‘05s, crammed with potential, are going to be nothing short of breathtaking. The Grand Puy Lacoste began at a disadvantage, revealing next to nothing at first, save for the char of the new oak it was just housed in. As it sat in the glass, it remained compact, but its raw power and depth became more and more impressive, in a brooding, fascinating way, 94+ points. The Pontet Canet ’05 is a bright shining star, as everything is there, brilliant fruit, acidity and exceptionally sweet tannins that frame the package with sheer artistry. This wine is a modern classic and tastes like it has the stuff that legends are made of, 96+ points.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Pauillac’s top values go... by Brad Coelho

  
  

• January 2009

  I was delighted to be able to join so many Nebbiolo lovers at Convivio last week for a wonderful look back at the Produttori wines from 1978-1990. I have long been a fan of and proponent for the Produttori and it is great to see them getting the respect that they deserve. We had a... Read more I was delighted to be able to join so many Nebbiolo lovers at Convivio last week for a wonderful look back at the Produttori wines from 1978-1990. I have long been a fan of and proponent for the Produttori and it is great to see them getting the respect that they deserve. We had a broad range of both vintages and vineyards prepared for this tasting and while most of the wines showed very well there were issues with more than a few bottles. Some wines were too damaged to be included in the line up. Others obviously underperformed, damaged by storage over the years. Others still were excellent but obviously not up to the level that these wines can perform at. Case in point was the line-up from 1978. Having enjoyed a spectacular array of wines from this hallowed vintage just a few months ago I was able to recall the pristine clarity and depth those wines offered. They were also served in better stemware which certainly played a part in their performance that evening but there was no denying that as a group they were fresher, more interesting wines. I am fortunate to have participated in that event but without that insight I still would have come away from this tasting confident in the knowledge that the Produttori del Barbaresco wines comfortable perform at the second tier of Barbaresco producers while, costing significantly less. I say historically since it does seem that the prices have risen noticeably over the past 3 years, yet still these are wines that offer very fair value, as the quality has never been better. While the current release wines are the 2005 Barbaresco Normale, and the 2004 Cru Riservas, a brilliant selection of wines, this evening was focused on mature and maturing vintages. We began the evening with a flight of 1996s. 1996 was a watershed vintage for Piedmont. It was the first truly great vintage of the internet era, released as they were in 1999 and 2000 after 5 vintages that ranged from abysmal to just plain difficult to appreciate. It’s not that these wines were easy or fun on release, they were and remain fiercely structured wines whose reputation is built on their complexity, balance and potential for improvement. None-the-less when they were released they were accompanied by accolades from much of the press, who had been storing up accolades for several years blissfully unaware of the impending flood of accolade rich vintages that mother nature was poised to unleash. Much of the enthusiasm really sprung from the narratives of the producers. Recalling the great vintages of the past, these meticulous producers knew that the huge tannin and acid structures that accompanied the perfectly ripened fruit of the vintage would one day yield marvelously expressive wines in a classical vein. So how are they coming along? We had 4 examples to judge 1996 Ovello http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-ovello-1996/ This was wonderfully musky and gamy on the nose with a somewhat closed, dusty, earthy aspect to its rather masculine perfumes of asphalt, orange blossom and mortadella. Bright acids on entry with a lightly chewy mid-palate that offers up great, just ripe fruit supported by fine, stiff tannins. Austere and slightly rustic yet with lovely purity to the bitter cherry fruit that leads to a lovely tar and licorice tinged finish of moderate length. Quintessential 1996 and quintessential Ovello. Really textbook stuff but not in a particularly popular model. Just coming out of it’s shell this should be particularly long lived though I would recommend drinking 2011- 2025 92pts Pora http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-pora-riserva-1996/ In contrast to the closed and wild Ovello this was offering up a fruity nose with hints of almost jammy cherry and red plum fruits, big rose notes and gentle tones of forest floor, leather and candle wax adding complexity. Soft and rich in the mouth this is ripe and round with a dark, slightly tarry quality to the ripe fruits. A touch austere with moderate tannins and a crisp finish with lovely notes of bay leaves on the finale this appears to be at the beginning of it’s drinking window and offers less potential for improvement. The 1996 I would drink first 2009-2020 90pts Paje http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-paje-1996/ A return to a more closed nose with chalk and sand tones serving as a base for subtle lilac and baby powder tones to build apon. With air this turns lightly medicinal and offers up smoke and spice tinged notes of pomegranate. Soft and rich on entry then turning quite austere and structured as the tannins pop on the palate. This has a decidedly dark and earthy core of fruit supported by vibrant yet integrated acidity. The finish returns to a bit of a softer character with wonderful inner mouth perfumes persisting on the long finish. 2012-2024 89pts Rabaja http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-rabaja-1996-1/ Sweet at first then turning a bit deep this nose offers up compelling complexity with layered notes of tar, dried rose, slightly roasted beef and ripe cherry tones, a touch of anise and a hint of leathery brett. Really superb clarity and precision on the nose. Tight and taut in the mouth with a fine balance yet it’s packed with fruit. Still awkwardly youthful and tight there are feints of wild berry fruit that wash over the tongue only to be slapped away b the waves of ripe tannin that follow. A very long if particularly lean tobacco toned finish lingers with fine, fruit driven inner mouth perfumes. Really fantastic stuff 2012-2024 94pts. As a group these wines revealed the lean, structured nature of the vintage. There is no doubt that 1996 is a great classic vintage but these wines will require time and will never appeal to a broad audience. With our next flight we moved on to what is undeniably one of the truly great vintages of the post war era, 1989. A complete vintage combining brilliant balance, exceptionally deep fruit, and superb structure that is just coming into it’s own. Expectation ran high in the room when we were presented with this flight! 1989 Ovello http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-ovello-1989/ A decidedly leathery tone initially but then this really began to unfold aromatically yielding a fleshy, slightly dried cherry/sour cherry core of fruit with complicating notes of forest floor, bat leaf, menthol and cigar ash. In the mouth the attack features big acids and big though superbly ripe tannins. The structural elements are balanced and really well integrated into the tight core of dark wild berry fruits. There is a succulence on the long finish that draws one back to the glass for another sip. This would have benefitted from a better glass and more time to breath but is really lovely right now and still has significant potential for positive development. 2009-2023 91pts Pora http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-pora-1989/ Our bottle was decidedly advanced with a nose full of soy tones but there was a sneaky note of truffle lurking low in the glass. In the mouth the wine showed a touch fresher and in a pinch would have been drunk but it’s soft, earthy palate really showed this to be evolved and certainly not indicative of the potential quality. NR Asili http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-asili-1989/ This on the other hand was totally rocking, pumping out layered aromatics of dried orange rind, angelica root, floral tones, rosehips, sweet bay leaf, fleshy dark fruits and fine balsamic candle wax top notes. Aromatically fine and precise. Racy entry with superb balance that leads to an elegant mid-palate with rich ripe fruit flavors that dance around the mouth with wonderfully vibrant energy This is so lively and complex without huge weight. It is simply authoritative. Brilliant stuff 2009-2020 95pts Montestefano - from magnum http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-montestefano-barbaresco-1989/ This was tight and dusty at first slowly revealing subtle tones of dried rose, roast meat, and a horsy, saddle leather tone. Over the course of the tasting this retained an earthy core that recalled dirty root vegetables and become a touch tarrier. Big and powerful in the mouth with fine, ripe tannins and bracing acidity supporting fresh, slightly astringent wild berry fruits laced with notes of earth, tar and fresh mushrooms. Really nice cleansing finish. Certainly at or close to peak this should develop a bit more aromatic complexity but in the mouth it’s built to deliver power rather than complexity and I don’t see much upside on the palate, particularly from 750ml. 2009-2019 91pts Our third flight, the 1988’s, certainly split the room. This is an austere, structured vintage that has matured relatively quickly. The wines are not as consistent as the best vintages but the wines do deliver fine, traditional representations of Nebbiolo. 1988 Rio Sordo http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-rio-sordo-riserva-1988/ Strong tobacco notes waft immediately from the glass. With air they are joined by notes of leather, tree bark, dried wild flowers, coffee and salted plums. In the mouth this is dark and precise with a cool bitter cherry core of fruit that is bright and fresh but rather uncomplicated. This is fine and really does capture the essence of bitter cherry with perhaps a touch of bitter melon rind but it’s also a bit short. At peak and lovely for it’s captured fruit. 2009-2016 89pts Paje http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-paje-1988 This seemed a bit closed with its dusty tone but opened slowly if grudgingly to reveal a soapy floral tone, old dried asphalt, hot rocks, and subtle herbal/rubber notes. In the mouth there is the sweetness of age wrapped up in a soft, flannelly palate impression. Wild berry and lingonberry fruit with bright, supporting acids and complicating suggestions of dried funghi and forest floor. There is nice tension in the mouth and while my initial impression was that this was a bit short there was a sneaky return of wild raspberry fruit. A very nice wine that would have developed with a bit more air. 2009-2017 90pts Moccagatta http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-moccagatta-1988/ Floral and citrus aromas dominate the nose at first then fresh mushroom tones blossom to be joined by a bit of smoldering campfire and slightly roasted wild plum tones. With air this really gains depth and intensity with briary notes and a brilliant blackberry hard candy note. Lean and linear at first this was noticeably tannic and a bit low intensity at first but the core of dark berry and slightly jammy wild strawberry fruit really grew with time. This eventually offered elegance and enveloping depth. Still with a few years of upside potential. 2011-2020 92pts Trentennio http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-selezione-del-trentennio-30-1988/ Deep and earthy on the nose with roasted meat, minerally cigar ash, cigar smoke, and dried mushroom notes framing the blackberry fruit. With air this turns muddied and gains a dank still water tone. Fresh and rich in the mouth with integrated tannins supporting a very nicely preserved core of fresh, if simple, loganberry fruit. The finish has a bit of the bitterness of apricot pit or the nuttiness of amaretto with tarry, muddy accents. A fine bottle of wine in great shape but simply not at the level of the Cru wines. I would drink this sooner rather than later but it will remain intact for a very long time. 2009-2014 87pts Our next flight, the 1985’s, suffered from a double whammy of a quickly evolving vintage and a new winemaker. For this vintage the typical 4-5 week maceration was shortened to only 2 weeks, still reasonably long but not enough to extract all that Nebbiolo has to offer. In addition 1985 is a vintage whose star is fading. Lauded as a nearly perfect vintage on release and blessed with favorably press coverage since the simple truth is that the wines are fun and beautiful but the vast majority lack the depth, complexity of the finest vintages and simply have not evolved in the bottle but have aged and in many cases, simply faded away. 1985 Ovello http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-ovello-riserva-1985/ Fleshy and gamey on the nose with background notes of old wood, earth and mineral. Just a few haunting berry tones recall the fruit. Decidedly better in the mouth with a velvety feel and bright red cherry and orange rind tone. This is round and mouth filling with crisp, moderate tannins and zesty acidity that leads to a zesty finish with fine herbal accents. Really lovely transparency and purity here. 2009-2014 90pts Pora http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-pora-riserva-1985 A touch tight on the nose with sandy notes and a good violet tone adding some lift. The wild raspberry and lingonberry fruit remains intact and assertive. In the mouth this offers up a rich, sweet core of dark berry fruit. It has more obvious tannin than acid so it sits a bit heavily on the palate and finishes quite short, though there are appealing notes of licorice. This is a bit simple if fun and delicious. 2009-2014 87pts Rabaja http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-rabaja-1985 Lovely aromatics here with seared cherry fruit built over layered oyster shells, rosewater and nori. The fruit takes on a wild tone and gains fine top notes of black tea and dried leaves. In the mouth this seems a bit washed out with a rich weighty palate impression yet subtle flavors of dark cherry and mineral. The acidity here is just adequate yielding a wine that is big, powerful and ungainly. 2009-2014 88pts 1978 is one of those rare vintages when many wines transcended their humble origins. The small crop of tiny berries yielded uncommonly powerful wines packed with tannins and all the compounds required for a complex, deep richly flavored evolution. And evolution is the key word there. These were not easy wines in their youth. They were not easy in their adolescence, and, for some, they remain a bit tough to appreciate but they continue to testify to the greatness of this watershed vintage. I love the wines and have found many examples that have only recently entered their prime drinking windows. This is certainly an unusually long dumb period but with classically structured wines from such a fantastic vintage it was certainly worth the wait! 1978 Pora http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-pora-barbaresco-1978/ Decidedly citrussy on the nose with scorched orange rind and classic notes of earth, mineral, sandalwood, talc, campfire ash and dried, fading flowers. Big and round on entry with bright acids and lovely ripe tannins belying it’s age. There is plenty of spicy red berry fruit here and touches of tar and dried herb adding complexity. This has really fine length but ultimately comes off as a bit heavy and clumsy 2009-2016 89pts Montefico http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-montefico-riserva-1978/ A bit baked on the nose with notes of clay tile, baked raspberry and hints of burnt marshmallow and, leather and cooked bean starch. Sweet with lovely integrated structure and a fine lightness, this remains fresh and elegant with round fruit but does have a bit of a drop out on the middle. The rich wild berry and wild plum tones pick up again and lead to a fine finish with notes of clay and flowers but the dip is a bit troubling. This probably is at or just passing peak so drinking sooner rather than later is advised. 2009-2013 88pts Rio Sordo http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-rio-sordo-1978 This was wonderfully layered with a deep base of dried fruits and baked plums over which one found dried bay leaf, smoky earthy tones, asphalt and top notes of herbs, nettles and just a touch of ass. Aggressive and a touch astringent in the mouth this none-the-less is wonderfully precise and faceted with deep, extracted black fruits and spice tones. This was firmly at peak and really epitomized the power of the vintage. 2009-2017 91pts Rabaja http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-rabaja-1978/ Again offering a wonderful array of aromatics this started off with notes of leather and dried rose then turned smoky and exotic with tea tones, some chamomile and even a hint of jasmine. Eventually turning savory and deep with a tarry edge and a hint of shoeblack. Richly fruited though still slightly drying this offered up waves of layered flavor with chunky plum tones, earth, aromatic lift in the mouth from the VA. Turning a bit spicy with a touch of black pepper and a hint of roasted herbal tones adding some length. This is broad and muscular with fine balance. Firmly at peak and with a good future. 2009-2017 93pts Montestefano http://www.snooth.com/wine/produttori-del-barbaresco-barbaresco-riserva-montestefano-1978/ This offered up a rather unusual combination of beef broth, dried tomato, and cooked bean starch tones that may be due to this bottle seeing a bit of heat along the way. None-the-less there are nice hot iron and faded baking spice notes that keep the nose fresh and interesting. In the mouth this comes off rather soft and elegant with a tapered, lean, feathered feel. There are dark savory tones of coffee and dried olive on the palate but this neither feels nor tastes like a representative bottle. Certainly still drinkable 87pts. Well that was it. In all honesty the flight of 1978’s I enjoyed last year performed at a higher level. All in all the wines were a delight to try, reinforcing my enthusiasm for the Produttori del Barbaresco as a benchmark producer for the region. While the 85’s certainly underperformed, and the 88’s are a slightly difficult expression of Nebbiolo to appreciate, the 78’s, 89’s and 96’s can certainly compete with the finest wines of those vintages. The wines produced since then are also superb examples of each vintage, and with the exception of 2002 every vintage since 1995 has produced wines worth experiencing. I want to thank The Rare Wine Company, one of my favorite stores, for putting this together and finally offering a tasting here in New York City. Kudos also go to Convivio for providing a fine setting for these wines and wonderful dishes to accompany them. Special thanks should go to Levi Dalton, Sommelier, for orchestrating the wine service and Aldo Vacca, Managing Director of the Produttori del Barbaresco, for talking us through the wines. A memorable night for all of us myself included! Thank you all.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic The Rare Wine Company... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

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