Angelica Cellars

• October 2009

  Five Decades of Oddero with Isabella Oddero Isabella Oddero in the cellars   I had the pleasure of welcoming Isabella Oddero to New York last month. I have tasted with Isabella in the cantina at Oddero for several years but his was the first time we were able to sit down and share... Read moreFive Decades of Oddero with Isabella Oddero Isabella Oddero in the cellars   I had the pleasure of welcoming Isabella Oddero to New York last month. I have tasted with Isabella in the cantina at Oddero for several years but his was the first time we were able to sit down and share a few glass here in New York. Preceding dinner was an in-store tasting at New York’s Chambers Street wines where I was able to revisit the 2007 Bianco and 2006 Barbera d’Alba that I had previously tasted in the cellars. For those of you not familiar with Oddero it’s a historic Cantina of La Morra, in Piemonte, yet produced wines from many of the villages that constitute Barolo. The wines are made in a fairly traditional style, though their base Barolo is quite fruity and they even produce a Cabernet Sauvignon based wine called Fureste: The foreigner in the local vernacular. The real stars of the Oddero line-up are the single vineyard Barolo and Barbaresco. These are beautiful wines that may not be terrible expressive in their youth but blossom wonderfully with age. These earlier vintages are testament to the quality of the vineyards, coming from the family’s holdings in La Morra and Castiglione that are now bottled as Cru wines.   For more information on the wines of Oddero please see the previously published : A Killer Visit with Oddero     2007 Langhe Bianco Fruity on the nose with floral tones and pear fruit. Huge acids in the mouth give this great cut with a faceted quality to the mineral laden white fruits. This is assertively mineral on the backend and into the long finish.  89pts 2006 Barbera d’Alba Sweet and sour fruits on the nose are uncomplicated yet pure and bright. The classic Barbera acidity keeps this bright and zesty on the palate as well with a clear, slightly bitter black cherry tone and nice accents of tar, earth and violet than add nice length on the finish. 88pts 1961 Barolo A bit high toned on the nose and showing some volatility yet very aromatic with leafy tones of tobacco some sweet medicinal notes and a lovely array of assertive truffle and sweet angelica root tones. There’s a touch of teriyaki that emerges with air as well. While this retains a nice tannic bite it is fairly well resolved with a clear quality in the mouth that allows the bright sweet/sour cranberry tones to take center stage with hints of licorice and tar adding some detail around the edges. The fruit is fading a bit and doesn’t have great persistence in the mouth with a limestone mineral note taking over on the moderately long finish.  A very enjoyable,, fully mature bottle of Barolo. 92pts 1967 Barolo This starts off bit funky on the nose transitioning from the barnyard to a leathery, seaweed flecked bouquet that exhibits some classic mint and truffle tones before surrendering to a deep beef bouillon, dried onion and allspice tone. In the mouth this still has some flesh, which is well balanced by the relatively soft structure that remains. It gains more richness as it sits in the glass and the sweet edge of maderization gives an impression of sweetness to the cranberry/rhubarb fruit. There is a nice spice element that adds to the moderately long finish and a touch of burnished orange peel on the finale. The palate is fresher than the nose here but if this bottle is indicative these should be consumed sooner rather than later. 88pts 1970 Barolo The aromatics here present quite a contrast with a fresh, crisp celery note intertwined in the sweet black cherry core of fruit. There are hints of sweet tea, veal stock and fresh shitakes adding complexity but there is also a touch of rum on the nose that is a little off-putting. On the palate this is large scaled if soft with a wonderfully plush texture to the cherry and rhubarb fruit with hints of tar and subtle spice tones drawing out the moderately long finish. 90pts 1971 Barolo The cork on this bottle was pristine and the condition of the wine was exceptional. Such a deep color and such reticence on the nose that one would be forgiven thinking this was decades younger. The nose opens with a huge fresh celery note that is slowly subsumed by wonderfully sweet and fresh black currant and black cherry fruit tones.  With air the nuances of coffee, cigarette ash and burnt raisin tones add their detail to the bouquet though a touch of volatility does emerge, adding lift but also a bit of glue to the nose. In the mouth this is elegant with superb balance. The ripe, round tannins remain well concealed in a plush core of fruit. The lovely mouthfeel is complimented by the earthy floral tones and bitter cherry fruit the wine retains but the finish does reveal a bit of heat and the tannins gain a slight powdery edge with time in the glass. This is filled with fruit yet it lacks a touch a detail. It may very well continue to improve in the bottle. 91pts 1974 Barolo This really has a lovely fruity quality on the nose with a lightness and brightness that still makes this smell quite youthful. There are nice notes of dandelion, pigskin, dry earth and licorice that add nice detail to the fresh black cherry fruit. In the mouth this has such purity and real finesse. It is clean and polished with a great core of mineral tinged black cherry fruit, superb length and a sleek, refreshing feel. It is elegant; a touch simple and perhaps even delicate by Barolo standards but is pure joy to drink. Each note is so precise and clear here that you don’t need any more complexity to be completely satisfied. 94pts 1978 Barolo Reticent on the nose yet evolving rich hints of macerated flowers, sandalwood, tar and wet animal fur in the glass. This is continues to be decidedly matte feeling with plenty of fleshy fruit backed up by rich, slightly chewy tannins. The fruit is dark with earthy, leathery tones and excellent length but this still has a touch of an undeveloped feel. It’s rich and lusty if a touch rustic and may remain so. 92pts 1989 Barolo Vigna Rionda The aromatic on this are superbly layered and still very fruity with hints of iron, smoke, smoldering herbs and dusty earth embedded in sweet notes of cherry, candied strawberry and strawberry and cream fruit tones. In the mouth the tannins remain ripe yet rigid giving the mouth an excellent, precise feel. This is rich and powerful and the fruit is just beginning to yield the stage to the emerging tertiary notes but remains wonderfully youthful. 93pts 2001 Barolo Mondoca di Bussia Soprana The nose combines very fruity and intense notes of candied black raspberry fruit and cactus leaves with hints of cigarette smoke, clove and vanilla giving this a bit of a modern appearance. Big, rich and chewy in the mouth with big tannins and a dark core of confiture of black fruits. There are nuanced of espresso foam, licorice and backing spices adding accent notes on the long finish but this is still very youthful and showing lots of baby fat. 92pts 2004 Barolo Spicy on the nose, with jammy red currant fruits and a touch of carob. Lovely fresh tannins and rich fruit give this a soft, round feel with ripe wild cherry and boysenberry fruit that is fresh and intense if a bit simple and dilute on the finish. A fine Basic Barolo 88pts 2004 Barolo Villero A real step up in refinement over the base Barolo with red fruits on the nose accented with clay soil tones rose petals, sweet sassafras, spicy savory tones and a liquory black fruit top note. This offers up a really layered and complex. Set of aromatics.  Deceptively soft at first, the wine snaps together on the mid-palate with well-balanced, crisp, faceted tannins and prominent yet integrated acids framing the bitter cherry fruit. There are lovely herbal, medicinal tones that draw out the inner core of sweetness of the fruit and add resonance on the long finish. A very promising wine but one that is best left alone for a decade. 91pts    (hide)

  From the article Isabella Oddero Visits New York

  
  

• July 2009

  California’s Sierra foothills appellation spans across some of the least heralded great wine producing regions of the state. Unlike Napa and Sonoma, Cabernet Sauvignon did not serve as a historic touchstone here, though the history of wine production is almost as long. In contrast... Read moreCalifornia’s Sierra foothills appellation spans across some of the least heralded great wine producing regions of the state. Unlike Napa and Sonoma, Cabernet Sauvignon did not serve as a historic touchstone here, though the history of wine production is almost as long. In contrast to the hype and glitter of “newer” regions propelled to fame by faddish whims, the Sierra Foothills continue to stake their claim to fame on old vine Zinfandel, as they did during the gold rush, as well as newer plantings of grapes from across Europe that adapt well to the favorable climate of the region. photo courtesy of: El Dorado Winery Association The fact that these counties, eight in total, three in particular, from north to south El Dorado, Amador and Calaveras counties, are leading the way in planting exciting, new to the state, varieties, captures the pioneer spirit that continues to infuse not only the people of these beautiful hills but also the wine they produce. For example, as opposed to competing with the so much of the state, not to mention the world, by planting Cabernet Sauvignon (not that Cabernet doesn’t have it’s spots in this ranging AVA) one finds Rhone style blends based on Grenache and Syrah, Vermentino, Sangiovese, and even Tempranillo!  This “prospecting for riches” carries over a long tradition, going back to Sutter’s mill and the original 49er’s, that’s 1849, who braved the variable climate of this rugged region in search of gold. Today’s gold comes more frequently in a bottle, and some is even of the golden persuasion. All the wines of the region share a certain character that expresses the unique terroir of this interesting AVA that admittedly crosses many county borders as it travels from meso-climate to meso-climate.  One reason for such an extensive AVA is that the rolling foothills here are the key to providing welcome relief from the heat of California’s central valley. This slice of the foothills, where vines thrive in the moderate climate between 1400 and 3000 feet of elevation, is double blessed. Not only do the warm days and cool night preserve the acidity in the grapes but these conditions also extend the growing season by slowing down the ripening during the final days of the growing season. This is especially beneficial with Zinfandel since the grape clusters on many Zinfandel vines tend to have berries of varying ripeness as harvest approaches. These hillsides are also blessed with a variety of soil types that give the wines produced here a distinctive character.  Around the 2000-foot level many patches of decomposed granite are to be found. These poor soils offer great drainage forcing the vines to struggle a bit for their survival, yielding fruit that, when mature, gives rich, rugged flavors and balanced structure to the wines they produce. At higher elevations several regions have soils of volcanic origin that can add a spicy tone to the wines and a crispness to the tannins that makes them distinct and unique additions to the pantheon of California wine. Situated as they are between the heavily populated coastal areas of northern California and the rich beauty of the Sierra Nevada range, the foothill wineries are ideally located to be part of a true California adventure. Escaping from the herd mentality that drive tourists to Napa, Sonoma and San Francisco provides that savvy wine tripper not only a chance to taste great wines at a pace more akin to that of 1950 but serves as a gateway to some of the most impressive natural beauty one is able to find in the vast land of ours. So next time you’re thinking of a California vacation consider adding the Sierra Foothills and visits to Yosemite to your plans.  I know I will. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Amador Foothill Winery -  Leading the way with innovative wines! With plantings that range from Aglianico to Zinfandel, it should come as no surprise that Amador Foothill Winery is leading the way with innovative wines from the Sierra Foothills. From Rose to Rhone Blend, and never forgetting the Zinfandel, this is a winery that delivers. Amador Foothill 2008 Rosato of Sangiovese Amador  13.5%  Soil, oil, dusty earth, pollen, wild raspberry, lovely subtle spice ad herb tones,  a tuch of leather, a bit of Swedish fish, wild cherry+,  A touch sweet up front then the wash of acid cuts through the weight leaving very pure wild berry fruit tones, great interplay of acid/fruit on the palte, really zippy style with duge refreshing acids that lead to a brick finish full or wild raspberry tones with hints of earth and spice.  A lighter style in the mouth and a great rose that may lack a touch of complexity but more than makes up for it with it’s extremely pretty pure fruit and texture that makes you want to drink more. A great rose 92pts ~ ~~ ~ Amador Foothill  Winery 2006 Katies Cote Shenandoah Valley  14.4% Lots of cigar box and sweet vanilla laced tones on the nose dominate the blackberry and black plum note though intriguing notes of violet, black pepper and thyme slowly emerge from the glass.  Slinky entry is immediately delicious with crisp herb inflected black fruits that have great intensity yet are not clumsy or thick. The wood adds a bit too much sweetness here yet the ample spice tones with hints of cinnamon, black pepper and juniper add a nice contrast on the back end. This finishes with a touch too much wood induced sweetness again but the tannins are lovely and crisp so this should take another year or two of age well, allowing the wood tones to soften and integrate. Very aromatic and cedary in the mouth at times, this is a rich, gutsy wine with good promise. 51% Syrah/49% Grenache 88pts ~ Bantam Cellars - A new winery making Shenandoah wine scene. With only 3 vintages under their belt bantam Cellars are the new kids on the block. Following in the path blazed before them they are offering an array of Mediterranean varieties yet continue the great tradition that Zinfandel has developed in the region. Bantam cellars 2008 Vermentino  Amador County12.5% Quite intense mineral, almond, pear and light spiced white peach fruit on the nose. This is lovely and balanced on the nose. Good acids, a touch grapey fruit, quite grapey fruity in fact but with lemon shaded juicy Asian pear notes that are rich and satisfying.  Finishes with a touch of raspy mineral, a hint of gooseberry and surprising length. A delicious wine perfect for casual sipping and light fair. 88pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ C. G. di Arie - From the creator of Cap’n Crunch, no kidding! Set to celebrate their first decade in business C.G di Arie makes the most of their estate fruit. With the major red varieties planted here at 1700 feet the focus here is on getting a consistent expression from these vines while relying on partner grower sto provide top-quality fruit for their non-estate wines. G D di Arie 2008 Sauvignon Banc Shenandoah valley 13.8% Starts out with sweetish notes of powdered sugar a sage that are joined by tropical fruit notes.  Soft and broad in the mouth with a velvety texture and juicy orchard fruit tones. A simple wine in an easy to drink style 85pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ G D Di Arie 2008 Rose Di Arie  Sierra Foothills 13.7% Earthy sweet raspberries and fleshy black grape tones right off the bat are joined by a touch of herbs, black pepper and peach fruit.  A rich, soft style with tones of sweet red currant and plum fruit tones that are a touch spicy and hold a nice earthy center. Rich and fruity with a touch of RS yet also a nice hint of tannin to add some contrast to the texture. A touch sticky on the finish but with lingering jammy blackberry tones. If you love a fruity rose this is for you.  50% Syrah/40% Tempranillo/10% Zinfandel 86pts  ~ ~~ ~ Cooper Vineyards - Offering a complete array of wines Cooper Vineyards produces and impressive line-up of wines encompassing 17 varieties. From Pinot Grigio and Roussanne to Cabernet and Zinfandel, naturally, there is a wine for every palate. And in that inclusive spirit one can also find a pair of dessert wines, one white, and one red to tempt your taste buds. Cooper vineyards 2008 Pinot Grigio Amador 14.9% Rather intense citrus zest and ripe herb notes with lovely floral top notes some alcohol shows but surprising well-balanced nose.  Lots of sweet fruit up front, green berries and green plum combine with a rich, plush mouthfeel to produce a rather unusual wine. One that feels over-ripe yet maintains surprisingly good freshness of flavor; inner mouth perfume is very sweet with notes of green tea and jasmine. The wine lacks some freshening acidity but is bursting with apricot and almost guava tones. The alcohol is more apparent in the mouth but this still manages to pull it off. The finish is a touch short but this is quite an interesting wine, though certainly not for everyone. 88pts ~ Deaver Vineyards -  Four generations and 150 years later still going strong! If any name should be associated with the wines of the Sierra Foothills it should be Deaver. With a proud lineage extending back to the first years of wine production in the region it’s no surprise that Deaver continues to be at the forefront with great new Italian and Rhone varietals as well as the classics. Deaver Vineyards 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Amador 13.3% Light kiwi and grassy notes on the nose, fresh almost earthy clumps of sod tones that are less herbal than manner SB. Bright zesty and fresh on entry with a very lively and refreshing mouthfeel. Classic medium bodied Sauvignon Blanc feel with modestly fruity flavors and a nice hint of lemon pith and sweet grapefruit that leads to a medium length finish. Actually has good persistence to the modest flavors but the appeal here is drinkability. 86pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Deaver Vineyards 2007 Sierra Foothills Chardonnay with an ATTITUDE 14.5% Smells lemony and floral like some Muscat or Viognier made it into the blend.  The fruit is citrussy and the nose quite high pitched with salty undertones and a touch of honey, toasted spices and green anise seed.  Rich yet lively in the mouth with an impression of sweetness accentuating the deep fruit yellow fruit tones. A mouthfilling wine but well balanced with interesting layers of citrus and peach fruit.. Very clean and crisp on the finish with a touch of lingering almost coffee like toasted spice 88pts ~ ~~ ~ Deaver Viognier 2007 Amador County 14% Smells sweet with a leather fruit tone that recalls dried apricot, a hint of lanolin and a touch of water chestnut add some complexity. This gains a nice pale honey note with hints of pollen and light tobacco. Very light with an attractive airy quality even though the wine is noticeably viscous with obvious RS., but it is well balanced by the integrated acidity. Lovely honied flavors of quince, candied lime and peach round out thee mouth. The finish is a bit gentle but with nice feathery complexity and a very friendly disposition. The sweetness is a bit much for a table wine but this finishes fairly read more...dryly so it can work but is better suited as a very light dessert wine particularly well structured for a cheese course. 90pts   Deaver Vineyards NV Orange Muscat Amador 12.5% Gorgeously fragrant nose full of black tea, orange blossom, light passion fruit and pink grapefruit tones. Really intense and fresh and gently frizzante with a honied tone to the warm citrus fruit tones and  an easy appeal. Some tea notes add a bit of depth but this is a rather sweet and slightly rich style of Moscato with long honied flavors yet not much detail. 85pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Ironestone Vineyards - A pioneer growing premium grapes in the Foothills. Ironstone Vineyards is one of the Sierra Foothill’s premium producers of Bordeaux blends. By intelligently adding small amounts of blending grapes and allowing the wines time to age in barrel in the deep, cool caverns under the winery, Ironstone has created nuanced wines in a satisfyingly smooth style. Ironstone 2006 Cabernet Franc Reserve Sierra Foothills 14.5% Dark, toasty, grilled fruit notes with spicy herbs lurking, and something very meaty about this wine, Nicely gamy smells like grilling lamb over eucalyptus. Lush in the mouth with lots of rich fruit, plums, cassis, black cherry with hints of dried tomato, herb, mint, and oak,. Very nicely balanced both texturally and favor wise with there is a touch of barbq sauciness on the backend but the bright cherry tones and light vanilla note power through and dominate the long finish. A big velvety richly fruited yet fresh wine with a touch of earth at its core, and just a hint of mint chocolate shavings helping read more...to frame the fruit. Certainly is ripe Cab France 89pts ~ Ironstone 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Sierra Foothills 14.5% Reticent and minty with an interesting mineral edge to the nose, smells granitic.  A touch leaner and more transparent than the CF with a redder fruit profile. Bright acids and nicely measured tannin yield a firmly medium plus bodied wine with a touch of cola/root beer spice helping to frame the astringent red fruits. The wood is really well integrated here and while this is neither super complex or super rich (a good thing) it is very well behaved in the mouth. Not particularly varietal either but rich, polished and fruity. A well-made and enjoyably drinkable wine that finishes a touch short with a Mexican cocoa note.87pts. ~ ~~ ~ Morse Wines -  A leader in Rhone varieties from the Sierra Foothills Morse Wines is a new label being utilized by the Il Gioiello Winery to differential their Rhone Varietals from their Italian bottlings. Determined to make a name for both schools in the Foothills, Morse offer carefully crafted small lots of wines that offer a new interpretation of French Classics. Morse 2007 Ensemble Blanc 55% Viognier/45% Roussanne Sierra Foothills 15.1% A bit slow to open with soft floral tones married to deep, almost honied, quite smoky baked banana peel, and preserved lemon tones, Gains a big acacia tone with air. Rich with good acidity and a nice mineral edge to the deep orchard fruit tones. Real snap to the flavors and fine balance with rather restrained kwi and goosebbery notes that gain the upper hand on the back end with an interesting candied floral top note and lingering sweet/mineral tension on the moderate finish. Excellent complexity and balance in this very solid wine. 90pts  ~ ~~ ~ Shenandoah Vineyards- A pioneering winery in California’s Shenandoah Valley With a broad array of small lot reserve wines, Shenandoah Vineyards offers a complimentary line-up to the Sobon family’s eponymous winery. Actually the first of the 2 brands Shenandoah Vineyards continues as a leading producer of wines that represent a classic style that can only be associated with California’s Shenandoah Valley. Shenandoah Vineyards 2007 Special Reserve Zinfandel Amador 14.4% Subtle and soft blackberries, peach and black plum skins contrast with a hint of baking spice and coconutty oak tones on the nose.   Very sweetly fruited entry, nice balance with good acidity and very soft tannins give the moderately spicy but very fruity style with a soft, friendly feel.  Full of sweet, vanilla toned black plum and blackberry fruit, on the short finish. Classic Amador Zin though. 86 pts ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Sobon - a family affair dedicated to sustainable farming, and great wine! The Sierra Foothill’s forte has always been their deep, flavorful old vine Zinfandel. Many of these hillside vineyards were originally planted to supply the 49ers and now are gloriously mature. Sobon has consistently captured the wonderful fruit of these vines, allowing them to express themselves in classic style. Sobon Estate 2008 Roussanne Amador 14.1% Great nose, lots of boiled chestnuts and toasted chestnut shells, intense with a noticeable yet integrated oak backdrop. Lilacs, white pepper and very light mangosteen fruit.  Decidedly soft in the mouth with a rich, viscous feel and initial honied fruit note that yields to an almost strawberry tinged mid-palate with rich orange tones and a touch of butter cream.  The finish returns to a more citrussy vein with a nicely floral inner mouth perfume of almost tropical orange blossoms. Big rich balanced and different this is a winner 90pts ~ ~~ ~ Sobon Estate ReZerve 2008 Rose Amador 13.6% Mineral, strawberry, herb and roast pork with a hint of rosemary and a hint of flowers on the nose give this a succulent and savory appeal.  Dry and crisp with good focus in the mouth. This is a touch tight even with a subtle richness and lovely, slightly tannic red berry and sweet pomegranate tones with a touch of papaya and papaya seed spice. Wonderful fruit and subtle spice tones linger on the moderately long finish. Great balance and freshness here make this really lovely. Grenache/Syrah/Carignan 90pts ~ ~~ Sobon Estate 2007 Old Vines Zinfandel Amador 14.9% A touch of fudge and moist earth with lovely brambly notes of sapwood, herb and wild black raspberry fruit edged with a touch of pipe tobacco. Pure black raspberry fruit on entry, very good acids, lots of sweet fruit here, nice top notes of briar and bramble. Nice purity of well-expressed yet uncomplicated fruit. A wine for drinking, not for thinking about. Finishes with a slightly jammier tone and more wood spice but still nicely balanced and fresh 87pts ~ ~~ ~ Story Winery - A lovely white surprise from a great Zin producer. Story Winery has made a name for themselves producing small lots of old-vine Zinfandel from great vineyard sites in Amador county.  In true pioneer spirit they have also explored several white wines enjoying the fruit from these unusual head-pruned and dry farmed vineyards. Story Winery 2007 Chenin Blanc Shenandoah  15% A touch funky right out of the bottle with notes of caramel, butterscotch and quince paste over a funky chalky earth, seashell and herb base. Deceptively light bodied with gentle flavors of apple, apple butter and pressed flowers slowly building in the glass. Holds its 15% amazing well. The subtle flavors power through on the medium length finish adding notes or biter orange marmalade and a light cashew brittle tone. Before gaining a nice mouth grabbing chalky tone again. A very subtle wine that will rise to the occasion pairing well with a wide variety of foods. 87pts ~ ~~ Story Winery 2006 Picnic Hill Old Vines Zinfandel Shenandoah  Valley 16% Light vanilla tones are backed by lots of astringent red fruits, red currant and pomegranate, with a hint of herb and roast meatiness.  Enters with sweet red fruits, slightly exotic berries fruits, fruit di bosco, nice freshness and good balance that help to hide it’s 16% Very candied but in a fresh way, sugared raspberries with a peppery cinnamon edge for balance, Nice crisp tannins and a lovely stemmy tone add length to the finish.  88pts ~ ~~ ~ Story Winery 2006 Creekside Vineyard Old Vines Zinfandel 16% Really briary aromas in the glass are joined by smoky earth tones and reduced wild raspberry notes with hints of lightly spiced cranberry and orange rind.  Rich and velvety, this has power and depth with a slightly sweet character that accentuates the rich wild cherry and astringent, spicy red fruit tones. A mouthfilling wine that is a touch minty and medicinal on the finish with a nice tannic bite that helps balance the RS. This is a monster wine; serve it with cheese or instead of dessert. Really spicy notes gain prominence on the midpalate.  Finishes with a really intense red hots tone. A divisive wine for sure but it’s pretty cool. 90pts ~ ~~ ~ Story Winery 2006 Alitia Vineyard Zinfandel Shenandoah Valley 16% Smells like leather and ass and not in a bad way. Slow to open, with slightly buttery licorice tinged tight black fruit. Tight concentrated and velvety with a deep savory core folded up with black currant and dry, not terrible sweet mulberry fruit. This is reticent yet with excellent balance that gives it an elegance that their other wines lack. Shares a touch of that peppery cinnamon with lovely dried herb notes and lots of potential but this needs another year to express itself. 88pts ~ ~~ Vino Noceto - This Tuscan styled estate is a relative newcomer to the region. Recognizing that the climate of Amador County’s Shenandoah Valley was Mediterranean in nature, family owned Vino Noceto took a brave and unique path, choosing to focus on premium Sangiovese based wine as opposed to sticking to the Zinfandel roots of the region. Noceto 2008 Pinot Grigio Clarksburg/Amador 13% Light rainwater, clay and floral tones on the nose give this an airy note before they are joined by fragrant pear fruit with a hint of dried pineapple.  Round and soft but not flabby, in fact nicely balanced on a rich if medium bodied frame that supports soft, juicy fruit flavors with grace notes of mint and almond and herb that lead to a slightly sweet finish that hints at baked apple with a nice almond tone. 86 ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Noceto 2006 Sangiovese Shenandoah Valley 14% Very intense sweet cherry, vanilla and soft toast notes greet the nose.  There is a slight medicinal note that combines with the black cherry fruit to give this a slight cough lozenge note. A nice hint of herb adds complexity.  Big, rich sweet cherry fruit with just a hint of oak is well supported by tannins are a touch astringent, as they should be, and good acidity giving this a refreshing feel. Very medium bodied and with lightness that keeps this centered in the mouth despite the intensity of the rather simple yet pure cherry fruit. On the backend it turns a bit spice with a nice flourish of strawberry and herb adding to the long finish.  Very solid wine and great for the bar-b-q this summer. 90pts   Noceto 2008 Frivolo Moscato Bianco California 7.1% Delicious smelling with note of lemon, lime leaf, powder sugar and hints of angelica root and white tea, with a gently biscuit note. Just ever so softly frizzante with good acidity balancing the rather light, fresh citrus driven flavors. Plenty sweet but with a touch of lightness on the palate, really attractive flavors of subtle ginger inflected candied citrus fruits, with good length, lovely and freaking delicious 88pts  ~ ~~ ~~~ ~~ ~ Gregory Dal Piaz Community Manager Snooth    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Strike it rich in the Sierra... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• November 2008

  Rocche Costamagna Wines tasted Dolcetto d’Alba Murrae 2006 – 86pts Dolcetto d’Alba Rubis 2006 – 87pts Barbera d’Alba Annunziata 2005 – 86pts Barbera d’Alba Annunziata 2006 – 88pts Barbera ‘Alba Superiore Rocche delle Rocche 2005 – 89pts Langhe Nebbiolo Roccardo... Read moreRocche Costamagna Wines tasted Dolcetto d’Alba Murrae 2006 - 86pts Dolcetto d’Alba Rubis 2006 - 87pts Barbera d’Alba Annunziata 2005 - 86pts Barbera d’Alba Annunziata 2006 - 88pts Barbera ‘Alba Superiore Rocche delle Rocche 2005 - 89pts Langhe Nebbiolo Roccardo 2007 - 89pts Langhe Rosso Merlot 2005 - 87pts Barolo Rocche Dell’Annuziata 2004 - 88pts Barolo Bricco Francesco 2004 - 91pts The energetic Alessandro Locatelli has undertaken the continued restoration of the Costamagna cellars. With a history that goes back almost 150 years it was not a task to be undertaken lightly. Allowed to lapse into inactivity following the Second World War, Alessandro’s parents chose to begin anew in 1969. While it took awhile for the vineyard, 9 acres owned and 6 leased, to return to the qualitative level warranting bottling under the Costamagna Brand, finally bottling resumed in 1975 under the New Label Rocche Costamagna. Being in La Morra and having vineyards in the famous La Morra cru of Rocche del’annunziata, the Locatelli family wanted to reinforce not only the connection to the history of the old estate but also to the famed land of La Morra. This respect for history extends beyond the winemaking as the family compound includes not only the cantina with it’s panoramic view of the Langhe but also a treasure trove of books in their Cultural Center that serves as a reference center for the food, wine and history of the territory. The wines have a somewhat modern take to them. Respectful of the terroir of La Morra never forced and the style is seeing a move towards a more traditional expression. Currently the wines Dolcetto d’Alba Murrae 2006 - 86pts All in Stainless from La Morra, 16,000 bottles produced 4-5 day maceration Roasting plum on the nose, a sweet tarry core of fruit, slightly jammy with clay driven earth tones 2 Soft and easy in the mouth with small tannins and integrated acids 2 A bit on the dark and earthy side with an edge of austerity to the tannins, neither particularly fruity nor complex, but fresh 2 Finished in a more mineral register with plum and cherry pit notes 2 http://www.snooth.com/wine/rocche-costamagna-dolcetto-dalba-murrae-2006 Dolcetto d’Alba Rubis 2006 - 87pts A selection of fruit from higher elevations and older vines, 35 years and up, 8,000 bottles produced 1 week maceration, ageing in stainless More mineral driven on the nose with greater depth and complicating floral and balsamic tones 2+ Gentle texture with ok acidity and well managed tannins 2 Soft in the mouth but elegant with good intensity to the dark berried fruit notes with an earthy edge 2 Light on the finish but with some length and a light floral finale 2 http://www.snooth.com/wine/rocche-costamagna-dolcetto-dalba-rubis-2006 Barbera d’Alba Annunziata 2005 - 86pts 8,000 bottles produced, 5-6 week maceration, 12 months in barrique of second and third passage. Smoky on the nose with a dark, hot tar and light toast initial aroma under which are fresh notes of green ivy and light vegetal tones but the wood is a bit too assertive and obscures the core of fruit 1+ Big and plush entry with finely integrated acid and nicely managed tannins 2+ Intense candied fruit flavors, slight violet pastille note, good oak contrast in the mouth as it doesn’t dominate the almost chewy fruit 2+ Zesty acids pop on the finish refreshing the mouth and adding length to the asphalt finish 2 http://www.snooth.com/wine/rocche-costamagna-barbera-dalba-2005-1/ Barbera d’Alba Annunziata 2006 - 88pts Fresh and crisp on the nose with green herbs, green tobacco, laurel leaf, and citrussy red berry fruit 2+ Elegant and juicy in the mouth with lovely acids and a whisper of tannin Juicy and pure amarena cherry and lingonberry fruit in the mouth with a balsamic edge 2+ Lovely bitter edge on the finale with strong notes of freshly cut red fruits and decent length, excellent typicity 2+ http://www.snooth.com/wine/rocche-costamagna-barbera-dalba-2006-1 Barbera ‘Alba Superiore Rocche delle Rocche 2005 - 89pts Cigar ash and a bit of sour wood on the nose then very slightly fudgy with astringent red berry fruit accentuated by cigar, cigar box and a touch of dried juniper 2 Big and intense in the mouth without much weight, great acids, very fine tannins and a touch of sweetness 3 Dark fruited, coca tinged plums, slightly astringent, rhubarb note, layered but fresh 2+ Tight and a bit short on the finish with nicely integrated wood and a subtle ribbon of fruit that blossoms on the finale 2+ http://www.snooth.com/wine/rocche-costamagna-barbera-dalba-superiore-rocche-delle-rocche-2005 Langhe Nebbiolo Roccardo 2007 - 89pts 8,000 bottles produced, 5-day maceration then ageing in wood for 6 month, half botte half used barrique A bit reticent on the nose with a sweetness to the ripe fruits, touch of watermelon rind and green herb offering freshness, just a touch of wood 2 Deceptively suave in the mouth, elegant with luxurious richness yet fine, measured structure underneath 3 Classic array of small red fruits in the mouth, a bit of nopale, spicy vegetal hints, dried tar, fresh hints of anise seed, very good Nebbiolo 2+ Tight and short with emerging tannins and succulent acid 2 http://www.snooth.com/wine/rocche-costamagna-langhe-nebbiolo-roccardo-2007 Langhe Rosso Merlot 2005 - 87pts From vines planted in 2002, 18 months in barrique then 2 years in botte Cocoa, plum compote, maraschino sherry, just a whiff of vegetal notes then toast, cinnamon toast, a bit of cigar wrapper, turns a bit jammy 2 Sweet attack, almost velvety but the solid acidity keeps it lively, fine tannins, a bit weighty 2+ Deep and darkly earthy with a touch of licorice, bit of baking spice, blackberry, plums and a touch of graphite 2 Solid intensity of plumy fruit on the finish with gentle spice notes, long and engaging 2+ http://www.snooth.com/wine/rocche-costamagna-langhe-rosso-2005 Barolo Rocche Dell’Annuziata 2004 - 88pts 23,000 bottles, 7-8 day maceration, 2 years in Slavonian oak botte Nice intensity on the nose with some dried fruits and rose petals but pretty shy 2 Feels right in the mouth, good acids, ripe tannins, slightly angular, Medium-medium full body and building tannins 2+ Slightly liquory wild berry fruits, a touch of clay driven earthiness, a savory edge recalling green tea and tobacco 2+ A bit tight on the finish with good length and a finale of tar and licorice driven soil tones 2+ http://www.snooth.com/wine/rocche-costamagna-barolo-rocche-dellannunziata-1/ Barolo Bricco Francesco 2004 - 91pts A selection of 35 year old vines, massale selection, cluster trimmed before harvest, with a later harvest, 7-10 days, 7,000 bottles produced, 8 day maceration, 2 years in Slavonian oak botte Bette freshness on the nose, more calcium driven mineral tones, a touch of confiture to the wild strawberry/strawberry seed fruit, very aromatic, some dried rose and a bit of poppy seeds 2+ Elegant, refined and juicy in the mouth with medium full body and excellent balance 3 Freshly fruity, cherry juice, clay earth notes, a savory edge, a touch of woodsy licorice/angelica root 3 Lon finish with savory tannin notes, a touch of bitter rots, the acid peaks out a bit on the finale 2+ http://www.snooth.com/wine/rocche-costamagna-barolo-bricco-francesco/    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Rocche Costamagna returns to... by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

• October 2008

  Cavallotto has been a winery on the verge of a break-through for several vintages and it is with mixed feeling that a say this. Long a little known producer of great, traditionally styled Baroli, Cavallotto has finally become a mature player on the world’s stage. A recent... Read moreCavallotto has been a winery on the verge of a break-through for several vintages and it is with mixed feeling that a say this. Long a little known producer of great, traditionally styled Baroli, Cavallotto has finally become a mature player on the world’s stage. A recent re-release of back vintage Barolo just highlighted how well these wines age and to now have to share them with all the world leaves me just a touch melancholy. Situated just north of the Village of Castiglione Falletto, the Cavallotto family’s Bricco Boschis estate is ideally situated with a west-southwestern exposition in a concave depression that flows down from the top of a ridgeline. A fifth generation of Cavallotto, Alfio and Giuseppe now represent the estate and continue the traditions, started by their grandfather in 1948, of producing, bottling and selling their own wine. Spending time with the brothers is an experience as the intense and slightly contrarian character of Giuseppe is balanced by the steadfast sagacity of Alfio. Together they are a virtual encyclopedia on wine making and the region. During a recent visit I was able to taste through several of the wines currently on offer and got a unique glimpse of meters upon meters of excavated hillside that is making way for a slight expansion of the cellars. The layers of sedimentation revealed the alternating bands of quick draining sand and absorbent clay that allows this fantastic terroir to adapt to seasonal variation. The Cavallottos are obsessed with understanding the particular microclimate of their hillside and are quick to pull out charts indicating the relative similarities between; for example, the temperature swings through the growing seasons of 1989 vs. 1990. This attention to detail is one element that has allowed the Cavallottos to move from strength to strength with each passing vintage. Working the same land for generations has created an intimate understanding within the family that is simply impossible to duplicate. While some might lament the intrusion of modernity here the truth of the matter is often far more complex than what meets the eye. For example the use of roto-fermentors in the cellar is no secret and has had many questioning, and some even “perceiving” a change in the style. The truth is that while roto-fermentors are indeed used they are set at such a slow turn, one revolution per day, that they are simply mimicking the time honored tradition of cappello semi-sommerso! A walk through the vineyards with Alfio and Giuseppe reveals their true colors. The health and vigor of the land is a testament to the harmony with which it is allowed to grow, harmony that ultimately finds its way into every bottle. Wild grasses offer a natural ground cover and the encouragement of indigenous predators help maintain the health and vitality of the vines. Alfio comments in an almost backhand way that if there was the time and the want the vineyards could be certified as Organic today. Certified organic or not, Modern, traditional or not the truth is of course in the glass and while I was not able to try the whole line-up today the wines certainly lived up to my expectations. One aside, I didn’t taste the Freisa this time but drink it by the case at home, and especially for my Birthday party of all things! Simply put it is one of the great wine values of the world. If you are even the least bit curious about Italian wines you owe it to yourself to try it! Langhe Bianco 2007 Pinot Noir vinified as a white wine. This sees only stainless and is bottled the May after harvest so this sample had been recently bottled. Produced since 1989 with the exception of 1991, 1993, and 2005 when the fruit was vinified as a red wine. This strikes a decidedly Champagn-esque tone with its accessible aromatics of chalk, acacia flower, apricot and just a hint of musky gooseberry. The palate profile on the other hand is lush and round with soft acidity that gives this an almost decadent feel. The fruit is expressive with tones of apple and grape over a small core of moist soil tones that turn a touch more mineral on the pretty long finish with it’s notes of drying fruits adding some complexity. Easy to like and easy to drink just lacking a touch of complexity. 87pts Langhe Pinot Nero 2005 This has spent 2 years in botte. This offers up a distinct contrast to the Bianco with it’s initial burst of sweet and spicy aromatics, a touch of wild black berry and wild flower notes are joined with mineral, eucalyptus, and licorice tones. An interesting blend of Pinot fruit and Barolo terroir. In the mouth this is easy with soft acids and mild tannins and again there is the balsamic forest floor that marks this as Piemontese. Some gentle red fruits add complexity; notes of seared raspberry and wild strawberry compliment the earthiness and lead to the finish where the tannins become a touch more obvious and slightly angular. The finish is long and turns a touch savory with a cola/coriander note on the finale. Certainly an interesting bottle but I am not sure this speaks enough of Pinot, as the Cavallotto character seems to dominate. 86pts. Dolcetto d’Alba Vigna Scot 2006 4-6 day fermentation then aged for approximately 6 months in stainless. This smells powerful with a hint of exotic spiciness reminiscent of candied ginger that pops over the lovely wild berry fruit. A touch sweet and almost apricotty then turning more masculine with a core of scorched forest floor. This is surprisingly light and elegant in the mouth with good acidity and moderate tannins, that are a touch drying, supporting intense, dark Italian plum fruits that are gently accented with mineral and soil tones. Finishes very clean and fresh with excellent focus if a touch short but the mineral thread continues through the finale. Very drinkable and wonderfully balanced. 88pts Barolo Bricco Boschis 2004 This starts off very slowly with dusty earthy tones dominating but evolves in the glass offering up a little potpourri with floral and balsamic tones then building crushed cherry fruits that gain an asphalt tarry note turning the fruit towards scorching cherry pie juice and finally an uplifted bolt of roses. Great evolution on the nose! Very bright acids in the mouth frame the polished soft tannins and offer great cut to the dark, earthy cherry fruit. There are tones of plum skin and melon rind to the unevolved fruit but there is great purity here. The tannins turn a touch fuzzy on the long finish, which offers up glimpses of incipient complexity with its mineral and balsamic tones. A very complete Barolo at a compelling price, drink 2012-2-24 92pts. Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis San Giuseppe 2001 Produced from vines averaging 50 years of age. This spends about a month on the skins and is aged in Slavonian Botte for almost 4 years. Deep and high-toned with great tobacco, wet cigar, and cigar ash components on the nose which closes up in the glass leaving a touch of mineral and menthol topnotes Dense and layered in the mouth with juicy acids and very fine tannins There is a superb core of fruit here hiding behind very complex notes of earth, medicinal herbs, quinine, licorice and angelica root. Not particularly fruit driven today but everything is there for this to blossom with age. The finish is a bit tough and drying with excellent length. The imposing structure is absolutely beautiful offering up power without weight and just breath-taking balance in the mouth. If you are into classically structured Barolo this is a must buy! This will probably need until 2012 to really get going and should evolve positively for two decades more. 94pts. Barolo Riserva Vignolo 2001 Produced from vines averaging 40 years of age. This spends about a month on the skins and is aged in Slavonian Botte for almost 4 years. This is much more open than the San Giuseppe revealing a very savory element with smoky/ rubbery tones to the core of red fruits. Develops well in the glass revealing layers of flowers, Middle Eastern spices and cardamom. Elegant in the mouth with very fine, very ripe tannins and solid, vibrant acidity that gives this mouth filling volume without much weight. Richly fruited with notes of red plum and wild strawberry vying for dominance all nicely accented with grace notes of maduro tobacco, anise seed and a dried fruit edge that turns very dried strawberry on the long finish which gets a touch of mouthgrab from the emerging tannins that could use a few year to fully integrate. Drink from 2010-2020 92pts.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Cavallotto moves to the fore by Gregory Dal Piaz

  
  

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