2 2 2 10Go Winery

• November 2009

  Goulash: The ultimate comfort food Zinfandel: The ultimate comfort wine Nostalgia is a powerful thing, especially when it comes to food.  Having grown up only blocks away from some of the best German restaurants in New York City, many of my nostalgic... Read more Goulash: The ultimate comfort food Zinfandel: The ultimate comfort wine Nostalgia is a powerful thing, especially when it comes to food.  Having grown up only blocks away from some of the best German restaurants in New York City, many of my nostalgic memories from childhood are of German cuisine and one in particular, Goulash.  To this day, a rainy autumn afternoon or snowy winter night will always stir in me the desire for a warm bowl of goulash.  Its moderate heat is perfectly tempered by the rich sauce and natural sweetness of the onions.  When perfectly cooked the meat nearly melts in your mouth and becomes part of the sauce.  This is the ultimate comfort food.  The recipe included below may be very different from what a chef would learn in school, or what the typical cookbook may provide, but I assure you that it will create a Goulash of incredible depth and richness.  The ingredients are simple, but it requires a certain amount of patience from the cook, and passion for the food.  This preparation wasn’t taught to me by one person; instead it was constructed from an old traditional recipe and then fortified by the knowledge of a number of people that credit themselves as Goulash aficionados.  One may have wanted nutmeg, another to brown the meat, but in the end I took the knowledge of all of them and, through experimentation, constructed what you see below.  What to expect: Zinfandel Zinfandel is considered America's own great indigenous grape, even though its origins lie on the Adriatic coast. Planted throughout California and the Pacific Northwest, Zinfandel is at its best in warm regions with cooler temperatures during harvest. The wines can range from off-dry Rosés (aka White Zinfandel) and light bistro styled wines, to big, rich powerful wines - and even luscious dessert wines. The flavors range from plummy to raspberry, although deep blackberry fruit and brambly spice tones are most common. Find more Zinfandel However, there has always been one piece missing in this equation: what wine should I pair with it? Firstly, my experience with German reds is limited and most restaurants I’ve dined at consider beer to be the beverage of choice. Even the wine list at one of my local favorites, and possibly the best German Restaurant in New York City, has only a small number of Rieslings and one or two German reds. Secondly, a good Goulash will usually have a certain amount of heat to it, which poses another problem, where it might overpower the average red. Then it dawned on me: Zinfandel. A wine and food match pairing rich, earth partners. 2007 Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel Ponzo Priced from $29.99 This wine complimented the Goulash by standing up to its big bold flavors and providing a contrast of lush fruit and firm tannin between each bite of savory beef.  This Ridge Ponzo Vineyard was a big, structured, rich, full-bodied Zinfandel with a long red fruit finish.  It’s a wine that will age for years in your cellar but probably only moments in your glass. Hungarian Goulash This recipe can be made the same day you plan to serve it; however I highly recommend making it the night before so that the sauce and meat can truly come together and develop a deeper, richer flavor.  This also frees you up to better entertain your guests, while also impressing them by how effortlessly you are able to produce such a wonderful meal I choose to pair two wines with this dinner because, like most varietals, Zinfandel is made in many different styles.  The one style I wouldn’t recommend with this dish is the heavily fruited and almost sappy sweet Zinfandels that sometimes cross your path.  Instead I went with one of my most trusted producers, Ridge, and a bit of a wild card that I discovered this year while in Napa Valley, Trespass.   2006 Trespass Zinfandel, from Napa Valley was, surprisingly, a light ruby red color with aromas of bright red fruit, cranberry sauce and a bit of chalk dust. With time the fruit became darker with clove spice and plum, providing beautiful contrast to the heady, rich, beefy aromas of the goulash. On the palate it showed dark blue fruit, cedar and clove, adding complexities to the dish’s earthy flavors of rosemary and paprika.  It's full-bodied and zesty acidity worked wonders, carrying the fruit through the spicy heat of the goulash to end in a long finish reminiscent of sour cherry cough drops. This was a beautifully nuanced and complex zinfandel that ended up as the majority favorite of the night.   2007 Ridge Zinfandel Ponzo Vineyard was in many ways the yin to the Trespass Zinfandels yang.  The wine was a dark purple color in the glass and wafted aromas of black cherry fruit followed by confectioners sugar, sage, and a bit of nail polish remover (I mean that in a good way) which added a floral perfume and kept me with my nose to the glass for minutes on end.  On the palate it delivered big, lush brambly fruit with spicy vanilla and dark chocolate flavors.  The wine complimented the Goulash by standing up to its big bold flavors and providing a contrast of lush fruit and firm tannin between each bite of savory beef.  The Ridge Ponzo Vineyard was a big, structured, rich, full-bodied Zinfandel with a long red fruit finish.  It’s a wine that will age for years in your cellar but probably only moments in your glass. In the end, I have to say that both wines performed equally well but for totally different reasons.  Each wine is, in my opinion, a superior expression of Zinfandel and while the Trespass will capture your soul in its web of elegant fruit and spice, the Ridge will quicken your pulse with its racy perfume and palate of rich bold flavors.  The most difficult part of this pairing was deciding what to do next, eat or drink. The Hungarian Goulash captured us all in our own way.  For me it was nostalgia while, for one guest, it was a wild and new experience, and another saw it as a taste of home.  And for a fellow chef, it was trying to figure out how it was possible to achieve such complexity with so few ingredients.  I think it’s time you try it for yourself. Hungarian Goulash To download a printable pdf file of this recipe please click here. The first thing to understand is that this recipe is all about patience and low, even temperature.  The best cooking vessel to use depends mainly on how much you want to make.  The recipe below is made to serve 7 – 8, and the reason I choose this high yield is that you can always use the extra as leftovers and, due to the time it takes to make it, you might as well have extra.  For the 7 –8 servings I suggest using a heavy stainless steel roasting pan that can span across two burners on your stove.  However, if you were to choose to cut this recipe in half for a small group then I would suggest a cast iron or earthenware vessel such a Le creuset. Secondly, this recipe can be made the same day you plan to serve it; however I highly recommend making it the night before so that the sauce and meat can truly come together and develop a deeper, richer flavor.  This also frees you up to better entertain your guests while also impressing them by how effortlessly you are able to produce such a wonderful meal. 5 pounds beef chuck (fat trimmed, cubed or cut about 1 ½ inch long, ¾ inch thick) 5 large yellow onions (sliced thick wedges) 8 Tbls tomato paste 3 Tbls hot paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika) 1 Tbls sweet paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika) 2 tsp dried oregano ¾ tsp fresh grated nutmeg 3 branches fresh rosemary about 4 tsp salt Pepper to taste 5 cups water 2 Tbls AP flour Extra Virgin Olive Oil (as needed) 4 Tbls sweet butter (for the finish) 1 lb fettuccini (Can use egg noodles; serve with potato dumplings or even rice) Place roasting pan over two burners on your stovetop and pour enough olive oil to coat entire bottom of the pan. Set burners to low-medium flame. Once the oil is heated, add onions with a healthy pinch of salt and toss to coat in the oil. Cook over low-medium flame until onions turn translucent but do not allow them to take on any color. Reduce flame to low. Make sure the onions are evenly spread out on the pan bottom and add the beef slices by placing them on top of the onions in an even layer. The beef should cover the onions completely but make sure that none of the pieces touch the side of the pan. The onions should create a cushion between the pan bottom and the beef. Sprinkle another pinch of salt over the beef. Next, sprinkle all the paprika over the beef evenly (I like to use a sifter for this to create a fine and even layer.) Now add the oregano and nutmeg again, evenly over the beef. Lastly, place two (of the three) rosemary branches on top of the beef. (Do not disturb the layers you have created.) Cover the roasting pan tightly with aluminum foil. Check to make sure that the flame is on low. After about 3 – 5 minutes you should hear the mixture bubbling. Allow the mixture to cook like this for 35 minutes and then loosen the aluminum foil to allow a little steam out of the pan. After another 5 – 10 minutes remove the foil (do not discard) and turn all the pieces of meat over. Check to make sure the onions are not burning. You should notice that the meat and onions have released a lot of their juices. Place the foil back on top of the pan (loosely) and allow the mixture to cook over low heat for another 45 minutes. Now place a saucepot on the stove over medium-low flame, add the five cups of water and whisk in the flour slowly, making sure that no lumps form. Now add the tomato paste and again whisk until it is combined. Allow this mixture to come up to a gentle boil but make sure to whisk regularly. Remove the foil from the roasting pan, remove the two branches of rosemary from the pan and add the boiling water-tomato paste mixture. Turn the beef and onions over in the sauce. The cooking liquid should just barely cover the beef and onions. Bring this mixture back to a simmer over medium-low flame and cover loosely with the foil so that steam can escape from the pan. Cook this mixture for an hour to an hour and a half, and stir gently once or twice to make sure that the mixture is cooking evenly. It’s at this time that you should taste. Check to make sure that the beef is tender. Season with salt and pepper. Then turn off the heat. If you want to serve the same day, let this mixture sit for about an hour before going to the next step. If you want to use this for the following day, move the mixture to a bowl and place in an ice bath to cool it quickly, then cover it tightly and place in the refrigerator. When ready to finish, place the Goulash in a pot and set over low heat. Bring another pot of well-salted water to boil for the pasta. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the instructions on the package. While waiting for the pasta, set the butter out on the counter and cut into cubes. Strip the last branch of rosemary for its leaves and chop them. By the time the pasta is finished, the Goulash should be perfectly heated through. Taste for seasoning one last time and then add the butter and stir gently until combined. Strain your pasta and toss in olive oil. Set the pasta on a plate and hollow out a circle in the middle. Pour one or two (depending on the party) ladles of goulash into the center of the plate and sprinkle with the fresh chopped rosemary. Clean the rim of your plate with a warm, moist paper towel and serve. Be prepared for praise.    (hide)

  From the article Goulash, The ultimate comfort food

  
  

• October 2009

  Not really. I built the room pretty quickly but spent more time thinking about shelving and figuring the space needed for bins, for shelves, for racks, etc., vs what I could store on them. I got all kinds of measurements for bottles and put up bins on one side. Loaded them up and... Read moreNot really. I built the room pretty quickly but spent more time thinking about shelving and figuring the space needed for bins, for shelves, for racks, etc., vs what I could store on them. I got all kinds of measurements for bottles and put up bins on one side. Loaded them up and within a couple of days started to hate them. So for the other side of the room I decided to build shelves. I had plenty of wood around so it didn't seem like a big problem. Then found that some Beaujolais, some Turley zins, and some Pax syrah and some Hungarian wines are just too fat to fit in any "standard" spacing regime. So I used 5/8 plywood, ripped it into 10 foot shelves about 9 inches wide, and cut little spacers of about 3 3/4 inch, and put them in. The idea was that I'd lay out four or five bottles, put a spacer, etc. Didn't work out as well as I'd hoped. The bottles are just too variable in size Then I loaded those up and damned if once again there wasn't a problem. The weirder shapes, like Tokaji-aszu or some of the extra long bottles from Tokaj or Italy roll around too. And Port and Madeira. So you really don't win no matter what you do. And somewhere during this process I got a DVT and got stuck in the hospital for a week. But I looked at people's blogs and talked to people who build these things and they're just too complicated and dumb IMO. The best insulation is extruded polystyrene. It has an R value of 10 per inch. Fiberglass isn't nearly as good. So if you buy a 2 inch piece you have an R value of 20 and if you double that you get 40 which is pretty decent. You get them already sized to 24 inches, so just use steel studs. Lay in the insulation, pop in the next stud, and so on and you've built the cellar room in a day. They aren't load bearing walls so 24 inches is just fine with minimal work. Your ceiling should be insulated better because in a basement you are under a heated room, so I doubled the insulation but essentially did the same thing there. And because I was nervous about possible water in the basement, I used cement board along the floor inside and out, rather than something like drywall. Doesn't look so nice but it's covered with bottles anyway. And here's a trick because it's full of holes -- get a good mildew resistant paint, mix it with drywall mud, and paint your cement board with that. It's easier than doing a skim coat and you smooth out all the roughness. But I was only looking for something functional, not something to show off carpentry skills. I did that in the rest of the house. A wine cellar is just a refrigerator and I don't have some fetish where I like to go and look at my "collection" which is just haphazard wines that I like to drink. You can build it in a weekend. The hard part is building and hanging the door and the racking. Had I been a little smarter, i would have made it a tad bigger. My thinking was that I could get drywall in 10 foot lengths and cement board in five foot lengths, so I made it ten by five so I didn't have to cut anything. That plan didn't work out either. And when building a door, if you hinge the outside, the arc the door makes needs to be considered. For a regular door it isn't such a big deal. But if your door is six inches thick, like mine is, your're basically swinging a box. You need more clearance because the inside of the door scribes an arc with a different radius than the outside of the door. So you have to make your opening much wider than the door and then you're stuck trying to seal that. The solution is to angle the closing part of the door, but I hadn't figured that out when I built it.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Turning a closet into a wine... by GregT

  
  

• October 2009

  Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce Cutting the fat with Dry Rielsing Eric Guido returns this week with a stunning Fettucini in Truffled Cream Sauce recipe. Using the the theory of contrasting flavors Eric has paired this dish with a set of dry... Read more Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce Cutting the fat with Dry Rielsing Eric Guido returns this week with a stunning Fettucini in Truffled Cream Sauce recipe. Using the the theory of contrasting flavors Eric has paired this dish with a set of dry rieslings. In the wine and food pairing world there are two fundamental concepts that govern pairing decisons. One can choose to either contrast, or to compliment, the flavors and textures of a dish.In this case the rich creaminess of the sauce is contrasted against the brilliant mineral, and acid rich flavors of the wines. Other wines that would be worth exploring for this sort of dish, rich, creamy and laced with prosciutto, would include Pinot Bianco from the Alto Adige, Fiano di Avellino from Campania, dry Riesling from Australia or even a fine aged dry Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley What to expect: Riesling Riesling is a chameleon of a grape, able to produce world class wines that range from bone dry to unctuously sweet. Germany is most closely associated with Riesling, where all styles are made, and the range of flavors runs the gamut from steely and crisp with crunchy, mineral driven flavors to fresh lime, apple, and peach notes and beyond to the rich honied, candied fruit tones of the great dessert wines. Find more German Riesling Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce Autumn is truly a great season for food and wine lovers.  As the temperatures drop and the leaves begin to fall, we find ourselves craving the rich and hearty foods and wines that truly make life worth living.  Maybe it’s a creamy spiced squash bisque or a rich succulent braise that triggers those happy thoughts of good times and good friends.  For me it’s the foods of Northern Italy that always fit the bill.  One of my favorites is a pasta dish I mastered while working as a chef at T.H.O.R.: Fettuccine in truffle cream sauce. Fettuccine in Truffle Cream Sauce Not a dish you could eat every day or even every week but, when the cards are down and inhibitions are lifted, this is a plate that is sure to please with its bold flavors beautifully intertwined in an elegant, decedent, yet simply prepared sauce.  The woodsy, smoky and slightly salty flavors of the prosciutto combined with the fresh, sweet vegetal flavors of the peas, which balanced by the creamy sauce, wafts intoxicating aromas of truffles into the air.  The best part about this recipe is that the majority of the work is in the preparation, meaning you can prep your ingredients before your guests arrive, entertain them with a bubbly, and then return to the kitchen to finish the dish in literally 10 to 15 minutes. So what would you pair with such a dish?  I used this opportunity to experiment with Riesling, more specifically dry (trocken) Riesling from Germany, and I’m sure glad I did.  My theory was that the same lively acidity Riesling is known for would cut through the rich creaminess and intense flavors of the sauce, which it did in spades.  Also, Riesling is known for aromas and flavors different from most white wines, all of which added new dimensions to the truffle cream sauce.  For a dish such as this you would want to find a dry Riesling for its brisk acidity and citrus, mineral qualities.  Riesling is also known for being a wine that truly reflects the place in which it is grown.  This fact was truly apparent in the two wines I selected, as one was a single vineyard selection and the other a blend.  2006 Weingut Paulinshof Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Auslese Trocken The single vineyard 2006 Weingut Paulinshof Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Auslese Trocken sliced through the truffle cream sauce like a hot knife and added new dimensions to the sauce with it’s flavors of sour apple, orange zest, and hazelnut, leading to a sweet mid-palate with tongue curling acidity.  On the nose, it showed lime and melon, which managed to hold its own against the cream sauce’s heady aromas of truffle.  As you dig deeper the fruit is backed by the smell of chestnut, slate stone, and almond skins, which provide wonderful details and complexities.  This was everyone’s favorite of the night but, while not necessarily expensive, cost almost twice as much as the other wine. 2007 Peter Stolleis Haardter Herzog Riesling Kabinett Trocken The 2007 Peter Stolleis Haardter Herzog Riesling Kabinett Trocken was a light yellow straw in color with fresh aromas of peach nectar, lemon, and a bit of butter cookie.  The palate showed lemon rind and sweet pear but was all focused on the first impression with very little mid-palate performance.  The acidity was fresh and focused which did its job against the truffle cream sauce and followed through to a sour citrus finish.  Not a wine to think on but made for a wonderful simple sipper that paired well with the dinner and could have scored much higher in everyone’s book if it wasn’t evaluated against such stiff competition as the other wine. In the end, both Rieslings held their own and complimented the dinner quite well.  However, if it was up to me to make this again I would go for the 2006 Weingut Paulinshof simply because of its multiple levels of flavor and rich textures which truly complimented the decadence of the truffle cream sauce.  So next time you find yourself craving the finer things in life without spending hours in the kitchen, I invite you to try this recipe and pair it with a dry Riesling.  I think you’ll find it’s worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce.   Click here to download a printable PDF of this recipe. Fettuccine in Truffle Cream Sauce This recipe is all about planning and timing.  When working in fine dining, every plate is prepared separately in its own pan, no matter if the entire table orders the same thing.  However, at home, this would be nearly impossible, as you’d find yourself running out of burners very quickly.  I have adjusted my recipe, which was initially intended for a single plate for a party of four. When it comes to the truffles, look for white truffles.  If you have the funds to actually buy truffles for shaving over this dish then that’s great.  However, if you’d like to keep the cost of your meal outside of the stratospheric cost range, you can easily use truffle oil.  Be careful, though, when purchasing truffle oil by looking for a brand that has actual truffle in the oil, and stay away from anything that has ingredients that read “truffle flavoring.”  I use white truffle oil from Wild Forest Products. Lastly, a note on the prosciutto.  When you go to your butcher, ask for them to slice the prosciutto thick, about 1/8 of an inch.  At that size you will likely need about two slices for this recipe.  This will speed up your preparation.  Trim the fat and cut the prosciutto into a small dice. 1 lb bag of fettuccine (timing in recipe is for dry pasta) ¾ cup Prosciutto di Parma (small Dice) 1 cup peas (frozen is fine but go for a good quality brand) 1 shallot (fine dice) 3/4 cup white wine (if possible, use the same wine you are pairing) 1 cup vegetable stock 1 quart whipping cream (at room temperature) 1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano (grated) 4 tbls butter (cubed) truffle oil (see recipe instructions for use) salt and pepper (to taste) fresh parsley (minced) 1 tbls. canola oil. Preparation Start a pot of salted boiling water.  This is not for the pasta; it’s for the peas.  Also have a bowl half filled with ice water to create an ice bath.  Place the peas into the boiling water and let them par-cook for 4 - 5 minutes until they turn a vibrant green.  Immediately strain them and throw the peas into the ice bath.  Strain them again and set them aside, covered, in your refrigerator. Heat sauté pan over medium heat and add about a tablespoon of canola oil.  Carefully use a paper towel to coat the pan with the oil.  Add the small dice of Prosciutto di Parma to the pan and cook off.  You’re looking for a toasted appearance on each side.  While the prosciutto is cooking, cover a plate with a paper towel (think about how you cook off bacon for Sunday breakfast.)  Once the prosciutto is toasted on each side, take off the heat and move onto the plated paper towel.  Set the prosciutto aside. Have all of your ingredients ready and close to the oven.  Place your serving plates in an oven at the lowest temperature (this will keep the sauce from breaking when you plate the food.) Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil for the pasta.     Place a large saucier or sauté pan over medium low heat.  Melt 2 tbls of the butter in the pan and add the shallots and season with salt.  Allow the shallots to sweat in the butter until they are translucent. Turn the heat up to medium and allow the pan’s temperature to come up, but be careful to not let the shallot take on any color.  Add the white wine and allow it to reduce.  As the white wine is reducing in the pan, add the pasta to the boiling pasta water and set your timer to 2 minutes short of the recommended cooking time. (You are now at the point of no return.) Add the stock and whipping cream to the saucepan and raise the heat to a medium high.  Stay close to the pan and continue to mix regularly to make sure that the cream is not burning on the bottom of the pan.  The idea is to reduce the cream by 1/3. After about four minutes, add the pre-cooked prosciutto to the pan and continue to reduce.  If reduction appears to be going too quickly then turn down the burner to medium low.   Taste and season lightly with salt. The timer for your pasta should go off about the same time as the cream has reduced to desired level. Pour the pasta into a colander and quickly rinse out the pot with hot water.  Place pan back on the stovetop over a low flame. Drizzle pasta with truffle oil and toss.  Then add the pasta back to the pot and pour the reduced cream sauce over the pasta along with the par-cooked peas and stir to combine. Turn off the burner and add half of the grated Parmigiano Reggiano and last two tbls of butter.  Stir to bring the sauce together and taste.  Season with salt and pepper if necessary. Remove the plates from the oven and portion the pasta out with tongs.  (Don’t worry about the sauce at this time because it will collect at the bottom of the pan.)  Once you have portioned out all of the pasta, use a ladle to sauce each plate from what is left at the bottom of the pot, making sure to distribute the peas and pieces of prosciutto evenly. Drizzle each plate with truffle oil.  (Be careful not to overdo it.  Truffle and truffle oil can go from good to overwhelming very quickly.) Then sprinkle with the remaining parmigiano and then with parsley. With a warm paper towel, clean the rim of the plates and serve. Learn more about German wine and Food Pairing: On Snooth Learn to Decipher German Wine Labels An easy guide to help you find Dry Riesling German wines, whose labels offer you all the detailed information you need to make a great selection, can be very intimidating. It’s time to make it a bit easier. In case you missed our recent article, it helps one learn how to tell dry wines from sweet and find a Riesling to match your needs. Fettuccine in Truffle Cream Sauce By: Eric Guido Autumn is truly a great season for food and wine lovers.  As the temperatures drop and the leaves begin to fall, we find ourselves craving the rich and hearty foods and wines that truly make life worth living. For me it’s the foods of Northern Italy that always fit the bill.    (hide)

  From the article Worth every guilty ounce of truffle cream sauce

  
  

• October 2009

  yep! :), i've used that ice water in the wine glass trick, too! but man!, i sometimes get the funniest looks (you, too?), like i'm some sort of fool or neophyte, especially if i'm at a 'wine bar' (someone explain to me how a "wine establishment" doesn't know this basic thing?) but i... Read moreyep! :), i've used that ice water in the wine glass trick, too! but man!, i sometimes get the funniest looks (you, too?), like i'm some sort of fool or neophyte, especially if i'm at a 'wine bar' (someone explain to me how a "wine establishment" doesn't know this basic thing?) but i can't help but do it when i'm out: if i'm gonna pay 2-4 times retail for wine, i gotta have it the way i want it... my gf laughingly remarks that it's getting harder n harder for me to go out on the town as time goes on. the more n more i learn n accumulate experience in wine (and cocktail-making), the more n more i'd rather stay home, invite friends over, or go over to friends, n do it in the way i consider to be best (i guess i got too many taste buds on my tongue). it may come off snobby, but it truly is not my intention n certainly doesn't feel that way from my perspective. naturally, it all depends upon the where you're going and the appropriate expectations for that setting. but if i'm at a nice restaurant/wine establishment where wine is a definite component of the evening at hand, and given the choice between spending in public $50 - $100+ on a bottle that often isn't even that good for $10- $20 retail, having it served at a temp of high 70's to sometimes even the low 80's, then having to play dodge-ball w/ your wineglass because yr server, meaning perfectly well, wants to top yr wine glass off every few minutes (ok, i exaggerate a bit fr effect, but at least around or past half full every 10-15 mins ;p)... OR i can spend the time and money (think of just how ridiculously good a wine you can buy nowadays for $50-$100), serve it properly at the right temp, in the appropriate glassware, with enough time to breath ahead of time, and languidly enjoy n savor it at home or at friends'. it's a no brainer for me, at least. it's that or i have to bring my own bottle everywhere i go!    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic A few simple pointers for... by joss

  
  

• October 2009

  I wasn't going to post anything but since this thread is still going . . . You can find a million wines under $15 but the question is whether you yourself would like to drink them. The more people who answer, the more random the list becomes until eventually you end up listing... Read moreI wasn't going to post anything but since this thread is still going . . . You can find a million wines under $15 but the question is whether you yourself would like to drink them. The more people who answer, the more random the list becomes until eventually you end up listing every wine in the whole world that is under $15. That might not be a bad thing. Anyhow, here are some things I wouldn't mind drinking and I tried to explain why. I posted this somewhere else a few years ago so it may be dated - I would love to find a wine under $10 or so that is good enough to justify buying, but rarely is it possible, at least in reds. I tried 2 Buck Chuck and Yellowtail. Both went down the drain. The latter especially was way too sweet - they either left a lot of residual sugar in it or added some. Nothing else going on with the wine other than some horrific sweetness. It used to be possible to get decent values for that price, but over the past 10 years or so that has changed. So we define $10 - $15 as cheap enough for every day. At that range, there is a lot. Spain is a great source. Try looking for some garnacha - it's by far the most widely planted red grape in the country and consequently in the world, and as a result, there are some real bargains to be found - Artazuri Garnacha - several versions but the cheap one is fine, lots of dark cherry fruit and a touch of spice and earth. Borsao or Las Rocas or Leilia or Tres Picos - all produce inexpensive versions of garnacha with more complexity than you'd ever guess from the price - usually have a touch of earth, ash and spice over the fruit. The Las Rocas can be very uneven depending on which lot your bottle comes from. It's made in millions of bottle runs. Also try some monastrell - it was grown for centuries but usually made a rustic, unpleasant, stinky wine until a few producers attempted to reach a little higher. Because it comes from a region relatively unknown in the US - Murcia, there is not demand from collectors and prices can be great. Altos de Luzon - a blend of moslty monastrell and syrah and I think cab, very earthy and leathery on the nose, great balance, very good job and one of the best values on the market from anywhere IMHO. They do a cheaper version but it's nasty IMO. The bodega led by Juan Gil has been a pioneer in raising the quality of the wine from the grape, and the Juan Gil wine itself is under $20 and great. In addition Casa Castillo does an inexpensive version and Rafael Cambra does a great one but it's over $20. Most of all, don't overlook the great grape of Spain - tempranillo. Too many to list but the traditional crianzas or better, joven wines, from Rioja especially can be great values. E.g. Marques de Riscal, Marques de Murrietta, etc, from Rioja. Regarding the Riscal Reserva - I cannot think of another wine in the world that you can pay less than $12 for and keep for the rest of your life. And it improves w age. Look for Joven or Crianza from Ribera del Duero too - Bodegas Arrocal, Gormaz, and Casajus (which I sell), or the wines of Alejandro Fernandez, like Condado de Haza, or from Toro, his el Vinculo. Greg already mentioned Flavium, which is a really good job of mencia from the north of Spain. There aren't a lot of good value mencia wines out, but that's one and so is the Abad Dom Bueno, which was listed by the NYT as the best value and again, disclaimer - it's something I sell. And don't overlook the whites. Lots of great verdejo available - usually has a touch of grapefruit and a crisp quality - it's what a sauvignon blanc would love to be but never can. There are many Spanish whites around for under $15 and rather than list them I'd suggest that you simply go to the store and pick one up. If you like it, try another. They're often sold by grape variety, so you can learn fast. And don't overlook the rosados either - as a rule, try to get them as fresh as you can, but there are a few that can age, believe it or not. Australia is always a good source of value - Rosemount has really decreased in quality, but is still OK w the whites, Oxford Landing, Two Hands (the Lucky Country is their only low-end red and the new imnporter is raising prices), Mollydooker (the new label from Sparky Marquis who used to make Marquis Phillips), Grant Burge, Jacobs Creek, Lindemanns, Penfolds and Peter Lehman all make a range of wines and their low ends are good. They tend to be fruity and also very "clean", in that you don't get funky, leathery notes on the nose for the most part. Also in Australia, don't ignore the whites. They make some of the best value riesling and semillon on the planet - usually very dry. I'd say just pick up what you find and if you don't like it, try something else. Not much from Napa or Sonoma but if you go to somewhere else in California, you can do well - Fess Parker from Santa Barbara makes a number of wines, Michael Phillips from Lodi makes big, fruity, brawny zins and syrah and cab and petite sirah. And Cline, as mentioned makes pretty good stuff, especially their zin and syrah that come in at your price point. Ravenswoods lower end isn't great - some people like it but go for their better stuff - they've really come back after a few off years. BV is sometimes OK w the Coastal label, but spend a little more - I think their Rutherford cab may be one of the best values in Napa - you can find it for as low as $17 sometimes and worth it. Washington has good values - the Chat St Michelle companies which also include Villa Mt Eden from CA, and Columbia Crest, among others. All of their whites are solid values. The Eroica from Chat St Michelle wins awards every year - it's a riesling that's got a touch of residual sugar, like many kabinett wines from the Mosel these days, but it's always a nice wine and around $18. But if you spend less on the basic riesling, you won't be disappointed and you'll have a few bucks extra for a red. The Reserve cab and syrah from Columbia Crest lists over $25 but can often be found for much less and like I said, if you average out the price of the white and the red, you hit your price point. Italy is easy if you stay south - Sicily has decent wines made from Nero d'Avola like Morgante, with dark fruit flavors and great balance, as well as from other local grapes but their prices are inching up. A-Mano is a primitivo (zinfandel) that is made in Puglia by Chris Shannon from California - it goes for around $8 and is a great value every year. May be the best primitivo from Italy, although Appolonio is good too. Usually they have a little more acidity than some of the CA versions and for the price, a lot more complexity. Monte Antico is from Tuscany and is a pretty good value, as is Gabbiano - a Chianti. If you're looking at a cheap Chianti, you could do a lot worse. Hungary has a few interesting wines - Craftsman is a label that was created to develop good, inexpensive wines as an intro to their grapes and wine. All of them are decent values if you can find them. You can learn about grapes that most people have never heard of and enjoy yourself at the same time. I've had all of these many times and in general, the whites tend to be fruity and have a touch of residual sugar, but they're not sweet. And don't forget Argentina, maybe the best place for the US right now, given the currency rates and how we are suffering against the Euro. You can get any number of malbecs and cabs - Sur, Ox, Gascon, Altos las Hormigas, Altos de las Terrazas, Norton, Dona Paula, etc. All are actually nice. And if you spend a few bucks more for the reservas, you will have excellent wine. The Terrazas for example, makes a reserva that I get for $14.99 and it can hold its own with wines costing much more. These all tend to be fairly big wines with a good shot of oak and spice. Chile makes low-cost wines, but I find them frequently rather green and rarely buy them. They are quite different as a rule than the wines of Argentina, which are more lush and softer. Those from Chile, when ripe, still end to have a bit more in the way of herbal notes, but they also have less opulent fruit and a leaner profile. Can be quite nice in some cases if that's your thing. France remains a strange place. Of its most famous wine, some is the most overpriced on the planet and some represents outstanding value for the money. Beaujolais has a bad rap because people tired of the fashion for the cheap, young wine. As a result, there is little demand for the cru beaujolais and they represent outstanding values. Moreover, some of them are quite ageworthy and for the price of a bottle of Burgundy, you can get a case to lay down. In ten years you'll have a wine that will make your Burgundy drinking friends envious. Brun and Vissoux are 2 that I am happy to own. Syrah from the Northern Rhone is as expensive as Burgundy or Bordeaux, but syrah grows elsewhere and can be delicious. Garnacha, or as they call it, grenache, can be an even better value. There is a lot of swill produced but also a lot of great wine. Chapelle St Arnoux produces my favorite bottle of wine from the South Rhone in the Ventoux region. It's under $10 and drinks wonderfully and is a blend of garnacha and other "Rhone" grapes. It's worth remembering that except for syrah, the most important grapes in the Rhone cam from Spain, so look for the same grapes I mentioned for Spain - grenache, monastrell (which they call mourvedre) and carinena (which they call carignan). These are frequently blended together and in fact, most wines from the south of France are probably blends, so you won’t generally see a bottle that states the grape variety. Doesn’t matter - try them anyway. In the same way that the co-op wines produced in the millions can still represent value in Spain, those of France can also represent value. Many Cote du Rhones are surprisingly good and they have similar profiles to the Spanish wines I described earlier - earthy, strawberry/cherry fruit, spice. Most of the wines I've mentioned from France, Spain and Italy are made with little or no new oak. The cost of a French barrel is around $800 these days, so it can be a great savings to the winery if they use old, used barrels or cement tanks. France also has regions that are frequently ignored. The Loire for example produces great cabernet franc. It tends to have a green and herbal note to it, VERY unlike the wines from the south which are generally much fruitier and more pleasant up front, but if you like that quality, it's hard to find better values anywhere. The whites from the Loire, especially the far west, are outstanding values if you like super lean, crisp, minimalist whites. It's also the home of sauvignon blanc, and while I'm not a huge fan of the grape, the wines from that region can be exceptional. Lesser known areas like Jura, Savoie, Madiran, and others can be sources of value but as it's unlikely you'll find much, I'll not say anything about them. At any rate, if you buy a handful of wines from each of the areas I mentioned, you'll get a good overview and have enough to keep you busy for a long time.    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic What is your favorite wine... by GregT

  
  

• October 2009

  Spicy Green Chili Stew and a Fiesty Red Mencia from Spain tames this bold dish As the weather cools and my thoughts turn to hearty stews and braises, it’s nice to be able to transition slowly from the lighter fare of summer. My weeknight meal of a deep, long... Read more Spicy Green Chili Stew and a Fiesty Red Mencia from Spain tames this bold dish As the weather cools and my thoughts turn to hearty stews and braises, it’s nice to be able to transition slowly from the lighter fare of summer. My weeknight meal of a deep, long simmered dish can be just the ticket for welcoming the arrival of cool, crisp  weather. However it may not be the right time for me to go looking for the rich wines that are a easy match. In its place I look for something a bit more retrained perhaps, and certainly easier on the wallet. The 2005 Flavium Bierzo Crianza is great example of an affordable option, perfect for Wednesday night, but a wine I welcome any day of the week. Coming from the Bierzo region of Spain, and made with 100% Mencia, this wine captures the warmth and exuberance of Spain with its bold fruit but at the same time reflects a complex and historic past. Mencia is capable of producing deep, layered wines but even this Crianza, signifying the wine spent only at least 6 months in oak barrels, has a nuanced character that speaks to me and sets this apart from similar, fruit driven, wines. What to expect: Mencia Menica is the red grape of the Bierzo region in Spain. It produces a medium bodied red wine with good acidity and slightly rustic, though fine grained, tannins that support dark cherry fruit with complicating notes of spice, earth, tar and herbs.    Show me more wines from Bierzo Before diving deeply into the pantheon of Beef and lamb dishes that are the staples of winter, I always look to pork to help make the transition from lighter summer fare to the stick to the ribs dishes I use to fend off the chill of winter. Pork and green chilies are a wonderful pairing, I find the typical Pork in green chili sauce sometimes  lacks a little oomph for my tastes, so I’ve taken a bit of creative license here. With my busy schedule I try and make one pot dishes whenever possible so the addition of some beans, and posole is not only in keeping with the south of the border spirit of this dish but takes this Chile verde from oh! to Wow! In my book.   This dish can get a bit spicy so look for a fruity, full-bodied red with soft tannins to pair here though a big, rich white would work as well. I’ve chosen the Flavium Bierzo specifically because of its soft tannins, rich, subtly spicy fruit and great balance, and it’s a wonderful match.   I hope you enjoy it as much as I do. The subtle spice of this pork stew pairs perfectly with the plush fruit of Mencia. 2005 Flavium Bierzo Crianza Priced from $8.84 This is a lovely little wine with ripe fruit scents that waft from the glass, uncomplicated but fresh and pure. The palate is soft and enveloping with sweet red fruit tones, good acids and just enough tannin to give this some weight in the mouth. Spicy Pork and Green Chile Stew By: Gregory Dal Piaz This take on Pork in Salsa verde introduces an extra layer of spice and smoky heat to the traditional reecipe while making it an easy one-pot dinner with the addition of beans and posole. An autumn dish to warm the soul. To download a printable PDF file of this recipe please click here. Greg’s Great Green Chili Stew Ingredients to serve 4 ¼ cup olive oil 2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 chipotle chilies, crushed 1 tsp. dried oregano 2 tsp. ground coriander 1 tsp. ground cumin 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 medium onions, peeled and ½ inch dice 2 tsp salt 1 pound tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and quartered 1 qt chicken stock 2 bay leaves 1 16oz can posole (hominy) 1 16 oz can pink beans (All canned beans and posole should be rinsed with water in a colander, to wash way all traces of canning residue, before using them) 3 Poblano Chilies, roasted*, peeled and 1 inch dice Or-2 7 oz. cans California green chilies, seeded and chopped For Garnish: Fresh Cilantro leaves, Diced red onion, diced tomato, lime wedges Technique Over a medium high flame heat the Dutch oven. When it’s hot add 2 tbsp of the oil and then brown the pork cubes. You may have to do this step in batches to avoid crowding. Once the cubes are well browned on all sides remove them from the pot. Add the Crushed Chipotles, oregano, coriander and cumin to the fat that remains in the pot, adding the remaining tbsp of oil if necessary, and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minutes, keep stirring the spice mixture to prevent burning Add the sliced garlic and sauté with the spice blend until fragrant, about 90 seconds. Add the diced onions and salt to the pot and stir well. Continue cooking until the onions have begun to brown, approximately 8 minutes. Add the tomatillos to the onion mixture and blend well. Reduce the heat and simmer until the tomatillos have softened and released their liquid, about 10 minutes. Add the reserved pork cubes, chicken stock, bay leaves, pink beans, posole, and green chilies to the pot, blend well, and allow to simmer until pork is fork tender. Make sure that the stew doesn’t become too dry. Add water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve garnished with Cilantro, diced red onion and diced tomato with a squeeze of lime. This dish is actually better reheated so don’t be shy about doubling the recipe and saving some for leftovers! * Roasting Poblano chilies is easy to do on any open flame. Simply rest the chili on your stove top (or oven broiler) and leave in the flame until the skin is burnt and blistered. Once the chilies are charred on all sides remove them to a bag or closed container to allow them to steam while they cool. That will make peeling them all the easier. You can wash off the charred skin that remains on the chilies under running water but I like to leave some on for this dish as it adds a bit of extra smokiness to the finished product.    (hide)

  From the article Green Chili Stew and Mencia

  
  

• September 2009

  The Vegetarian Dilemma A recent challenge presented to me was to cook a four-course Italian meal, with wine pairings, for a vegetarian group. It's not often that I'm asked to prepare a vegetarian dinner. Even being a recovering vegetarian myself, I still find it difficult to wrap... Read moreThe Vegetarian Dilemma A recent challenge presented to me was to cook a four-course Italian meal, with wine pairings, for a vegetarian group. It's not often that I'm asked to prepare a vegetarian dinner. Even being a recovering vegetarian myself, I still find it difficult to wrap my brain around a meal that excludes meat in all forms. Also, we often don't realize how many dishes contain meat as a secondary ingredient, such as a chicken stock added to a risotto or pancetta in any number of Italian sauces. Outside of the Vegetarian Italian theme, the cuisine itself was left entirely up to me. I decided to go to my favorite region in Italy, Piedmont. A trick to pairing food and wine is to match a traditional wine from one region with a traditional food from the same region. Also, cooking vegetarian is easy with Italian foods since so many of them are truly simple preparations that rely entirely on the quality of a small number of ingredients prepared just right. If you know the profile of an ingredient, namely its flavor, aroma and texture, then you can usually substitute it for something similar. In the end, experimentation can yield amazing results, but I would recommend experimenting on yourself or friends before getting too creative. First Course: Bagna Cauda If you love roasted garlic and olive oil then you haven’t lived until you’ve tried bagna cauda. However, creating bagna cauda for a vegetarian party presented a bit of a challenge since a key ingredient to this traditional Piedmont preparation is anchovies. The goal was to create a similar flavor profile that the anchovies would lend to the dish. This was accomplished through the addition of finely chopped capers, rosemary, and a small amount of red pepper flakes. The end result was so close that I could hardly notice the difference. The bagna cauda was presented with a selection of items to dip consisting of raw carrots, Belgian endive, cauliflower, sweet peppers, fennel, and cooked beets. Wine Pairing: Bartolo Mascarello, Freisa Nebbiolata 2005 The wine was a bit of a wildcard, being that this was the first time that I had ever tasted a Freisa, and I was honestly quite worried that the pairing may not work. So much so that an Arneis was kept in private reserve, just in case. However, my worries were for nothing. The wine played the perfect partner with its zippy acidity and bitterness that cut through the rich oil and roasted garlic flavors of the bagna cauda. So you think, wait a second, red wine against raw vegetables? And you’re right, if these veggies were on their own then this would never have worked. However, with the combination of the velvety, rich, sweet garlic flavors of the bagna cauda, it was a perfect match. The Freisa was a dark ruby red wine with a nose of vibrant strawberry, cherries, olives, and fall leaves. On the palate, it was full of cherry and cranberry fruit with earthy oak and a gorgeous bitter finish that begged you to take another sip. Second Course: Risotto ai tre pomodori (Three Tomato Risotto) A new recipe in my collection, and sure to have many repeat performances, is the Three Tomato Risotto. This plate presents an intense flavor profile of sweet and sour caramelized tomato, which is obtained through the mixture of a strained tomato vegetable stock, roasted baby plum tomatoes, and sun-dried tomatoes. Each addition adds different complexities and is all brought together by a healthy addition of wine, preferably the same wine you plan to pair with the plate. Wine Pairing: Giacomo Conterno, Barbera D’Alba 2006 In my opinion, one of the best wines to pair with a risotto is Barbera for it’s lively, nearly electric fresh fruitiness that’s mixed with dark earthy notes. I also find that Barbera is the perfect accompaniment to anything tomato. It’s as if they were made to go together. This pairing was no different; the barbera’s juicy acidity cut through the rich layers of creamy tomato and added dark, woodsy nuances that you must taste to believe. The nose is almost smoky with plum, savory broth, mushrooms, and moist earth. On it’s own, the wine is full-bodied with raspberry, fig, more mushroom, and a sweet mid-palate of red fruit that carries this wine’s brisk acidity to the end. The finish is long and fresh with cherry and cedar. You cannot go wrong with this combination. Third Course: Robiola Due Latte & Parmigiano-Reggiano with poached figs and Italian plums. This plate is all about contrasts that work together to create harmonious flavors. Each item on its own is delectable, but when placed together they form complexities and a unity of flavors that excite and please the senses. One of the greatest cheeses coming out of Northwest Italy is Robiola: a soft rind cheese that coats the palate with a lush tangy and mildly sour flavor that ends with roasted nuts and earthy forest notes. When plated with any semi-sweet accompaniment, it really comes to life and accentuates the sweetness of that item, in this case, poached figs, Italian plums, and a Nebbiolo wine from a very ripe vintage. The Parmigiano-Reggiano is a complete opposite with a sharper, saltier fruit and nut flavor profile. It’s dressed with just a drizzle of 25-year-old acceto balsamico, which lends sweet wood and dark fruit notes. As the tasters work their way around this plate, their palates are constantly engaged by the drastic changes in sweet, salty and, sour. Wine Pairing: Aldo Conterno, Il Favot 2003 As for the wine, it showed a dark red color in the glass with aromas wafting up into the room after pouring into decanter. Everyone sat around waiting to take the official sniff. This bottle was open for three hours before serving and showed aromas of raspberry jam, roses, forest floor, mulling spices, and new leather. This is one of those Nebbiolos that you can smell, never taste, and still feel satisfied. On the palate, the flavors consist of blackberries and licorice with raisin, earth, leather, cinnamon, and a bit of charred wood on the finish, which is long with a tannic kiss. The combination with the cheese plate keeps the austere finish in check as the creamy texture of the Robiola coats the mouth or the salty sweet flavors of the Parmigiano-Reggiano makes it water. . Dessert: Torta di nocciole with Zabaglione al caffé nero. When left to my own devises I tend to stray from traditional dessert course, but in this case it was requested. So what better way to show off Piedmont than with a dessert made primarily from Hazelnuts. The flavor profile of this succulent dessert is a mix of hazelnut, citrus, and dark chocolate in a moist, not too sweet, cake. Paired with an Espresso Zabaglione and spiked with Marsala wine, this is not a dessert for the uninitiated. The two parts (amazing on their own) paired perfectly together to create a vibrant, powerful combination. After a successful evening, it was time to sit back and enjoy a few glasses of wine myself. It was fulfilling to have created a fine dining vegetarian meal that managed to retain the rich complexities and satisfying flavors of Northern Italy. And so there I sat with a glass of the 2003 Il Favot, happy to do nothing more than enjoy its enticing aromas for minutes on end.   Risotto ai tre pomodori (Three Tomato Risotto) Serves four as a main course. 2 c strained tomatoes (Go for Imported San Marzano) 8 – 10 Sundried tomatoes (not marinated) diced 12 baby plum tomatoes ¼ c Olive oil 4 c vegetable broth 8 tbls (unsalted) butter cut into 6 pieces 1 sweet onion (fine dice) 2 c vialone nano (risotto rice) 2/3 c Red Wine (use the same wine you plan to pair with the meal) ½ c grated Parmigiano-Reggiano ½ c chiffonade of basil (cut at the very last moment) Salt and pepper to taste 1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. In a bowl add the baby plum tomatoes, a healthy pinch of salt and cracked pepper. Pour ¼ cup of olive oil over the tomatoes and stir lightly to coat. Place tomatoes on the sheet pan making sure to leave space between them. 2. Pour the Strained tomatoes and 4 cups of vegetable stock into a pot and stir till they come together. Place over low heat. 3. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat. Add half the butter to this pan and allow it to melt and coat the bottom. Add the onion and sundried tomatoes. Season lightly with salt and stir to coat with the butter. Cook until onions turn translucent. 4. Place the Plum tomatoes into the oven and set a timer for 20 minuets. 5. Bring your attention back to the sauté pan. Add the rice to the pan and stir. Allow the rice to toast slightly but do not allow it to take on any color. 6. Add the wine and stir. Allow the wine to cook down and reduce. 7. Add a ladle full of warm stock and stir. (From this point an average risotto will take about 19 minutes.) 8. Continue to stir and add ladle after ladle of the stock each time the rice begins to dry out. I look for the point that trails begin to form when stirred to add more stock. 9. After about 10 minutes, season lightly with salt. You’re a little over half done. 10. When the timer goes off for the Plum tomatoes, pull them from the oven. This is also a good time to taste your risotto. The rice should be almost done, probably a bit too firm. Continue to add stock slowly and stir. 11. Once the rice has reach al dente, slight crunch to the rice, turn off the heat. Add half of the Parmigiano-Reggiano, and half of the remaining butter and a small amount of left over stock. Stir to bring the rice together. 12. Add half of the basil. Taste and season with salt and pepper. You can add the remaining butter if necessary to obtain the desired texture. 13. When you’re happy with the flavor, plate by splitting it up between four bowls. Place three of the baby plum tomatoes on top of each bowl of rice. Sprinkle with the remaining basil and then the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano and serve.    (hide)

  From the article The Vegetarian Dilemma

  
  

• August 2009

  Here is another selection of Côtes du Rhône wines with nice prices: - Domaine Gramenon - 2008 Les Laurentides red Syrah-Grenache (organic vineyards) (Parker loves it) Price around 8 euros - Côtes du Rhône Sablet, go to Domaine Paul Roumanille fot its Village 2006 (Parker rates... Read moreHere is another selection of Côtes du Rhône wines with nice prices: - Domaine Gramenon - 2008 Les Laurentides red Syrah-Grenache (organic vineyards) (Parker loves it) Price around 8 euros - Côtes du Rhône Sablet, go to Domaine Paul Roumanille fot its Village 2006 (Parker rates the 2005 90/100) - Around 8 euros - on Saint-Joseph, Domaine Pierre Gonon offers a splendid 2007 (around 15 euros) (organic vineyards and manual and horse vineyards work) see : http://www.20nobles.com/gonon.htm - in Crozes-Hermitage, Alain Graillot should seduce you with its 2007 (around 15 euros) - in Cairanne, an excellent choice is Domaine Marcel Richaud. Its 2007 (grenache, mourvèdre, syrah, carignan) is a very nice wine. Organic vineyards.10 euros. - in Ventoux, the Cave Coopérative Terraventoux produce for 2007 2 nice cuvées : TerraVentoux - 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah (5 euros) et Terres de truffes 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah (6,50 euros) http://www.terraventoux.com/    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Chateauneuf-du-pape... by po54

  
  

• August 2009

  For C9dp (Il love the way you write it...), I highly recommend wines from this domain : !http://www.sommelier-international.com/images/FichesDegustations/31.jpg! Patrick Coste's Le Pointu http://www.domaine-le-pointu.com Red or white, theese wines are wonderful, perhaps top of the... Read moreFor C9dp (Il love the way you write it...), I highly recommend wines from this domain : !http://www.sommelier-international.com/images/FichesDegustations/31.jpg! Patrick Coste's Le Pointu http://www.domaine-le-pointu.com Red or white, theese wines are wonderful, perhaps top of the best of c9dp !! Organic driven vineyards. - The white 2006 Feuilles d'or is an exceptional wine ! White grenache, white clairette. You'll keep it 2010-2018 according to the lengh of its finish. Exeptional first taste with sweetness and flavour of apple, anisseed, with excellent balance.(to be served at 10° C) In red, the Domain produce 2 jewels : - Cuvée Clément 2006. Come from selection of 90 years old vineyards. Black grenache, black cinsault. Nose fresh, delicate and fruity with flavoured notes of Kirsch. In mouth, marvellous, delicate tannins, rich structure, notes of fruit, with delicate toasted touches. The finish is long and delicate. Will last up to 2028 ! - Domaine Le Pointu 2006 - Black grenache, black cinsault. Nose very elegant, aromas of dried figs and dried fruits In mouth, it's powerful and fresh, fruity flavours similar to the nose, wonderful elegant tannins. The finish is exceptionally long. Its life will be 2010-2030 ! The red wines should be served at 15°C. For other c9dp, I would go to a white Château de la Nerthe 2008 and a red 2005, http://www.chateaulanerthe.fr/ a Domaine de Saint Siffrein 2006 red (to be drank now, up to 2012) and from the same a 2007 white. http://www.vigneron-independant.com/annuaire.php?page_annu=desc2&numadh=889 Another jewel : Domaine de Marcoux 2007 red, which is splendid ! Great talent and pure pleasure. Organic vineyards. In Vacqeyras, don't miss the Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux with its 2006 Cuvée de Lopy. Also from the same the Un sang blanc 2007 white will kick you up with its white flowers fragance and a touch of light acidity. http://www.sangdescailloux.com/    (hide)

  Forum post in the topic Chateauneuf-du-pape... by po54

  
  

• June 2009

  Gemischter Satz mit Shlag (Schlag) by Alice Feiring, June 24, 2009 About the wines of Vienna and the terroir hype of Wiener Gemischter Satz! Vienna has more than shlag, it has terroir. In fact the snow covered Alps stops at the Danube. It's almost like the mountain range gave a... Read moreGemischter Satz mit Shlag (Schlag) by Alice Feiring, June 24, 2009 About the wines of Vienna and the terroir hype of Wiener Gemischter Satz! Vienna has more than shlag, it has terroir. In fact the snow covered Alps stops at the Danube. It's almost like the mountain range gave a last burb and out of it emerged three defiant mounds of rock and loess. Kahlenberg Nussberg and Bisamberg are just outside of city limits. Cool, no? 1400 of acres of vines, a third of the acreage of Long Island, are in pitching distance of the thriving city of Vienna, home of the sacher torte, home to Freud's favorite cafe and home to some of the best of Josef Hoffman's designs. It serves to reason that the end of the Alps has got to have something special down under. And it deserves respect. But driving through the vines I saw farming that made Champagne look biodynamic. Yes, it was that bad. Except of course for the exceptions. Perhaps because he's in biodynamic conversion, Wien winemaker Fritz Weininger, has become a mentor to fledgling winemakers wanting to go chemical free. Part of this reawakening is a reinvigoration of a white field blend called Gemischter Satz. This GS, has always been the local glug of choice, especially in those Heurigens (those winery restaurants where schnitzel and GS go hand in hand). But the wine just didn't get a whole lot of respect, especially in a region where riesling and gruner are king. Now, this new breed of winemaker, the ones that believe organic or more is the way to go, are making the wines citified and cool. I was slated to lunch with one of them, Jutta Ambrositsch. Hopelessly lost, I arrived at the turn of the century, Schwarzes Kameel, soaked and forty-five minutes late. Ambrositsch, who looked no more than eighteen, sat quietly in a corner booth and was visably relieved when I showed up. So was I. She was a refugee from the graphic arts world. "I needed to work in nature," she told me, and started to play in the dirt in 2004. Wieninger actually donated 2.4 hectare to farm for the cause. She is going to start winemaking classes which I hope will not corrupt her instincts, but for now, Wieninger makes her wine. Yes, he yeasts, as most people there do. Yet, slow fermenters, her wines showed the quality of her passionate farming. The girl does good. She grows Gruners and Rieslings but it was her old-vine Gemischter Satz that spoke loudest to me. Hers comes from a group of vines near the Heurigen-rich town of Grinzing and planted with about twenty varietals. She's got two. My favorite was the Alte Reben, with two extra weeks of hang time. Gemischter Satz, Sommeregg, Reserve Alte Reben, 2006 This little puppy demanded attention. So I thought, I can do that. I'll give you some attention. The wine was intense, complex, bounced from this edge of mineral to honeysuckle with a touch of skunk. And that finish just didn't let go. Jutta's website: http://www.jutta-ambrositsch.at Her GS, as well as another I’m fond of, Rainer Christ’s are available through Darcy & Huber Selections. http://www.darcyandhuber.com In addition, below are other GS currently imported by darcy and huber selections: • Weingut Rainer Christ (Wien Preis 2008) • Weingut Cobenzl (Wien Preis 2008) • Weingut Edlmoser (Wien Preis 2008) • Weingut Hajszan (Austrian Salon Winner 2008) • Weingut Thomas P. Offner (Protege of Rainer Christ very limited inventory) • Weingut Mayer am Pfarrplatz & Rotes Haus (Wien Preis 2008) • Weingut Zahel (Wien Preis 2008) More about Wien Wein Group: http://www.wienwein.net/ More about Alice Feiring: http://www.alicefeiring.com About Alice Feiring From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Alice Feiring is an American journalist and author, for several years a wine and travel columnist for Time magazine,[1] and known as an advocate for "natural wine".[2] In addition to contributions to publications such as The New York Times, New York Magazine, San Francisco Chronicle, LA Times, Condé Nast Traveler and Forbes Traveler, her blog "Veritas in Vino" is considered among America's leading wine blogs,[3]and her voice described by Mike Steinberger as part of a new wave of "real flowering of high-quality wine journalism".[4] Her book published in May 2008,[5] The Battle for Wine and Love: Or How I Saved the World from Parkerization, described as "an opinionated look at the fight to preserve authenticity and diversity in wine",[4] due to its perceived "declaration of war" against critic Robert Parker found some controversy well before its date of release.[6][7] Reviewing the book, Eric Asimov later wrote, "Ms. Feiring is an uncompromising judge of wine and people who can no more stomach a lover’s preference for a wine she abhors than she can the presence of a microwave in her kitchen."[8] Feiring's critical statements against California wine as "overblown, over-alcoholed, over-oaked, overpriced and over-manipulated"[9] have also sparked controversy.[10][11][12] An article Feiring wrote for The Upgrader on Men.Style.com, online site of GQ and Details, titled "The Ten Most Overrated Wines in the World", which listed Bordeaux Garagistes, Australian Shiraz, Martinborough Sauvignon blanc, Super-Tuscans, Clos de Vougeot, Long Island wine,Albariño, Screaming Eagle, Sea Smoke Pinot noir and Chilean Cabernet,[13] chiefly drew response from defenders of Long Island wine.[14] ------------------------------------------ The Austrian Wines darcy and huber selections Carlo Huber m +1 401 440 3714 e carlo@darcyandhuber.com Paul Darcy m +1 917 364 1780 e paul@darcyandhuber.com w http://www.darcyandhuber.com Become a fan: http://www.facebook.com/AustrianWines Twitter: www.twitter/austrianwines Taste Live: http://www.tastelive.com Snooth: http://www.snooth.com ------------------------------------------    (hide)

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