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Food Pairings for Weiser-Künstler Riesling Kabinett Trabener Gaispfad
TN: Weiser-Künstler Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese; 8 pabv; AP 2 601 562 05 08; US $34/750 ml; Age of Riesling; Valley View wine Sales, direcct import , 8 bottles. Importer: Bill Mayer.The Mosel's whimsically-named winemaking organization Klitzenkleiner Ring (which, if you haven't heard of it, you should have) has brought us another couple of young Turks, although perhaps that's not exactly the term to use in today's Germany. This couple (lAlexandra Künstler and Konstantin Weiser) looked for old, high-classed, ungrafted vines that could, with more handcrafting and hard work and restrained yields, have the potential to produce something special, and they found some lands to lease in the Enkircher Ellergrub, the Enkircher Zeppwingert, and the Trabener Gaispfad, all not far from the Wolf vineyards of Daniel Vollenweider, and totaling 2.5 ha (about 6.5 acres). They've been in production since 2005. This estate, which I've never tasted before, comes highly recommended from several knowledgeable people.Light straw with little or no spritz. Opens with generous scents of white peaches, with suggestions of Ratnapura (Sri Lanka) tea and wet grass. This wine is Auslese-dense, with soaring acidity crisp juiciness, energy, and balance to sweetness. The peaches are decorated with orange blossom, and show a nice tactile sense of its white-grape ripe skin tannins, giving it not exactly a sense of rusticity but more a sense of the ground reality of the winegrowing process, the same that you often encounter in wines like those of Nik Weis at St. Urbans Hof. In addition, there is a nice sense of old-vines harmony and integration in its considerable finish. You can sense that there's a certain spiciness in this wine which speaks of a rather unique blend of soils; I wish I knew more about that.This wine will drink well for about two more years and then it'll have a five-year awkward phase; by 2016-2017 it'll be a beauty, if you can leave it alone. It's still a little awkward and will get itself together over the next few months for the pleasures of early sipping. A strong 90 points.
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