Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Riesling Spätlese Graacher Himmelreich 2009

At only 7.5% alcohol, the Richter 2009 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese manages to handle 70 grams of residual sugar with remarkable aplomb thanks to brash acidity and presumptive underlying extract. Bright pineapple, grapefruit, and lemon inform the nose as well as a vigorously refreshing, feather-light palate, finishing with satisfying persistence and the promise of a good two decades of high performance. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg - particularly due to peronospora - and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer - whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced - has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling.

A 2005 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese - like all of Richter's wines from Himmelreich, originating in the superb and distinctive Goldwingert parcel that is actually high above several of the top vineyards of Bernkastel - smells enticingly of fresh lemon, sea breeze, and black currant. Very ripe but sleek and refined on the palate, with unusually lively acidity for the vintage, it leaves behind impressive traces of lemon, tart berry skin, and wet stone, all bound together by considerable honeyed sweetness. This illustrates the lightness and lift that are hallmarks of so many top-flight 2005s, and I would not hesitate to cellar it for two decades.

Pale yellow. Subtle aromas of nectarine, blackcurrant and clove. High-toned flavor of sweet papaya, with a honeyed texture. Nicely balanced and pleasingly long wine, with a splash of mineral salt and lemon on the finish.

At only 7.5% alcohol, the Richter 2009 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese manages to handle 70 grams of residual sugar with remarkable aplomb thanks to brash acidity and presumptive underlying extract. Bright pineapple, grapefruit, and lemon inform the nose as well as a vigorously refreshing, feather-light palate, finishing with satisfying persistence and the promise of a good two decades of high performance.