Weingut Josef Leitz Riesling Dragonstone Rüdesheimer Drachenstein 2009

A whiff of almond gives way to tangy lime, grapefruit and peach flavors in this rich, yet focused Riesling. Picks up a creamy vanilla note on the finish, which lingers nicely. Drink now through 2012.

An exceptionally aromatic wine with a full flavor and perfect balance. It is easy to see why Johannes Leitz is considered one of the rising stars of the Rheingau.

Bright and refreshing , this light-bodied white shows grapefruit, apple and spice flavors. The vibrant structure drives the long finish. Drink now through 2015.

Named for its source, the Rudesheimer Drachenstein, Leitz's entry-level wine is a perennial favorite. Unfortunately, the price has crept up over the past few vintages to the point that it is no longer the screaming bargain it once was, but it is still a lovely wine, with citrusy, bergamot flavors and riper hints of apple. Long, clean and refreshing on the finish.

This year's rendition smells of cherry cider laced with orange peel and mulling spices. The palate is as frisky, bright and dynamic as both the vintage and preceding editions of this wine would lead one to expect. Apple, cherry, lime, and orange all inform a scintillatingly bright, sizzlingly spicy, and unabashedly sweet finish. This little study in fruit saturation and vim and vigor - now at 8,000 case production - once again represents a terrific value.

This contrasts crisp, cool fruit flavors with the earthy, broadly aromatic profile typical of the Rheingau. It's focused and cleanly defined, and as one taster said, "it overdelivers for the category," showing an unusual sophistication for an entry-level wine.

After a dozen vintages of what has long since become by far his largest-production wine; and following some very recent property acquisitions, Leitz now controls the better part of the Einzellage Drachenstein, and his 2009 Riesling Dragonstone returns to being entirely from that site as well as exclusively from estate-controlled acreage. At 45 grams of residual sugar, this years rendition is drier than some recent installments and once again displays the remarkable ability of Riesling - especially from certain sites - to simply swallow up any sense of sweetness. Luscious yet tart peach, cherry, and rhubarb are seem suffused with salt, crushed stone, and shrimp shell savor in this bright, invigorating, irresistibly enticing and far from simple Riesling. Hints of inner mouth floral perfume and the piquancy of peach pit add further depth to what has consistently counted as among the worlds most remarkable Riesling values. Thus far, Dragonstone seems to keep well for 6-8 years, though I realize that few wine lovers will have the interest or will power to test this assertion.