Van Volxem Riesling 2007
courtesy CellarTrackerTN: Weinmanufaktur van Volxem-Roman Niewodniczansky, Saar Riesling; Mosel QbA; 12 pabv; AP 3567212 02 08. $20/750 ml; Crush, Manhattan. Angel's Share; Brooklyn, NY. The Crush people had a visit with Roman last month and got a taste of his estate single-vineyard wines. But if you want a glance at the talents of this seven-foot young workaholic vintner, this is definitely where to go. Notice I didn't say a glance at his style--because his style is surprisingly varied. This is definitely one of his more truly dry offerings. He is a believer in yeast--and where the yeast go, that's what ends up in the bottle. Most of his estate wines have a definite sense of the warmth of residual sugar that comes when wild yeasts simply get tired and stop working; but the most important variable he controls is yield, via a draconian selection process employed at all stages. He also believes in old wood--but I wouldn't be surprised if this one had a little less Fuder--aging than some of his bottlings that see a year or more. This is one of his non-Estate bottlings that are not labeled with the word 'Gutsabfüllung', and is part of his 'Weinmanufaktur van Volxem' project, which by and large used brought-in grapes grown on contract strictly according to Roman's specs. But if I'm not mistaken this wine is made at least in part from younger vines from another project--the Wawerner Goldberg vineyard plantation that had some folks quite excited at the Trier VDP auction last month. (The hammer price for his 170-Oechsle Auslese Auction Wine from the Goldberg was (wholesale, before fees and shipping) of $151 per bottle, which should result in a conservative retail of somewhere north of $200. So to the wine: I needed an Ah-So to get the oversize cork out entire, and so will you. I splashily double-decanted this one without hesitation. A slightly bitty, apparently unfiltered deepish green, with a warmth to the color. The wine starts out extremely closed, with nothing but energetic gasoline, forest floor, and rocks apparent at first, but with no reductive tendencies. A fuller-bodied white, with biggish, malic-dominated acids, a monolithic citrus kernel, and a huge but controllable tactile experience offered via white-wine tannins. Definitely reminds me of the energy of a fine Sybille Kuntz wine, with which estate this one has much philosophically in common. The stones and acids kick back in on the back end, showing a 30-plus second finish, something quite unusual for a dry Riesling. This wine needs days in an open decanter to show the stuff it's hiding inside. So I'll be following it over the next two or three days.Thanks to Angel's Share and whomever will be the West Coast distributor for getting Roman's wines back into the good old USA. And to Terry Thiese, and a few others, who helped show us what this estate could do in the meantime, even though long-term the wines weren't what Terry needed for his clients.92-94/100
External Reviews for Van Volxem Riesling
Roman Niewodniscanski’s Van Volxem estate is controversial. Not too far back, he purchased this estate, located on the site of a Jesuit monastery in the centre of Wiltingen (Saar) with the view to restoring it to make the sorts of wines it would have made when German Rieslings fetched higher prices than Bordeaux. He went back to the 19th century and consulted maps drawn up for tax reasons, which showed the best vineyards, many of which had been lost sight of in the 20th century. He’s given up on the Pradikat system, and instead makes wines that he reckons express their vineyard sites best, from late-harvested grapes fermented through to dryness (or relatively close to). These are a bit different to the classic Mosel-Saar-Ruwer style, but they’re pretty impressive, nonetheless.