Torbreck Shiraz Barossa Valley Woodcutter's 2003

Medium gold. Chamomile, acacia honey, quince, melon rind, pine nut and sweet basil aromas, gently accented by oak. Plump, fleshy and chewy, with round but nicely focused flavors of baked apple, poached pear, blood orange, licorice, floral honey and bitter quinine. Subtle, drawn-out flavors of Thai basil and honeyed pear close the deal. Does anybody else also find such a singular, out-of-step wine so compelling? I sure hope so.

Dave Powellrsquo;s winery is producing some of the most exciting wines coming out of Australia. The winemaking is masterful mdash; Parker considered him Australiarsquo;s best winemaker in 2001! Low yield, young vines fruit make up this Shiraz-based wine. A bit of Grenache and Mataro round out the blend. The wine is vinified in the same manner as the top cuveacute;es, in open-topped fermenters and basket-pressed, then aged 12 months in neutral hogshead casks.

Velvety, with a firm underpinning of acidity to support the ripe cherry and licorice flavors, finishing with some length. Drink now through 2009.

The 2003 Woodcutters Shiraz is a 9,000-case cuvee of sexy juice. Powell fashions this striking cuvee from some of Barossarsquo;s younger Shiraz vineyards. It is aged 12 months in old wood foudres prior to being bottled unfined and unfiltered. While meant to be consumed early in life, it does not sacrifice any flavor intensity or power. With a deep ruby/purple color, gorgeous plum, black cherry, raspberry and cassis-scented aromas as well as flavors, low acidity, medium to full body, good opulence, and no hard edges, it is about as sexy a Shiraz as one can buy for $20. Drink it over the next 2ndash;3 years.