The Bitch 2009

Amber-edged red. Candied strawberry and raspberry on the nose. Light-bodied but slightly syrupy red berry flavors are uncomplicated and a touch slippery. Finishes somewhat abruptly but leaves sweet, confectionery red fruit notes behind. Drink this very cold, as you would a simple rosé.

Bitch Grenache is sourced from 40- to 60-year-old vines from the Ebenezer sub-region of the Barossa. With the price of Cotes du Rhone soaring due to the weak dollar, I am hard pressed to think of a better value in full-flavored Grenache. The 2006 Bitch Grenache received no oak treatment. Medium ruby-colored, it presents an alluring bouquet of earth, smoke, rhubarb, cherry, and strawberry. Supple, sweet, and tasty, this wine totally over-delivers for its humble price and is an exceptional value.

The nose and palate are a delicate mix of fruit characters; perfumed raspberries, peach, and poached quince. The palate extends to a juicy, fleshy texture with confectionary flavors of strawberries and cream and finishes with spicy, cloves, and nutmeg.

A spectacular bargain, this 100% Grenache (from 40-year-old vines) has nothing "bitchy" about it. Gorgeous kirsch liqueur intermixed with pepper and soil undertones result in an Australian Grenache that tastes like a Vacqueyras on steroids. Medium to full-bodied, supple-textured, and silky, this is a stunning example of a value-priced Barossa red. The good news is there is 4,000 cases, and the packaging was designed by someone with considerable imagination. Drink it over the next 1-2 years.

Light red. Easygoing red berry and herb aromas, with a touch of mocha. Candied strawberry and raspberry flavors betray some heat, which builds through the jammy red fruit-dominated finish. Supple, straightforward and easy to drink, if a touch hot.

The 2008 Bitch Grenache is about as good as it gets for $10. Earthy, herbal, sage and garrigue-like aromas mingle with lovely rose petal and cherry scents. Smooth, ripe, flavorful, and seamless on the palate, this friendly effort is all about pleasure. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.

Opaque ruby. Super-ripe plum and dark berry aromas show a slightly stewed quality. Broad and fleshy on the palate, offering syrupy blueberry and plum flavors and a touch of bitter licorice. Finishes slightly greasy and sweet, with a vague burning sensation. This jammy wine would be a great one to crack open after everybody was too hammered to notice its confectionery character, or to friends whose booze preferences run toward Frozen Mudslides and double B-52s. Rumor has it that some people are into this style.