Terredora Dipaolo Loggia Della Sera Greco di Tufo 2009

As is to be expected, the 2006 Greco di Tufo presents a lean, mineral-driven profile of wet stones and white peaches. Drink this clean, focused white over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2008ndash;2011.

Apple and pear, with some mineral on the nose and palate. Medium- to full-bodied, with good acidity and a minerally finish. But falls off a bit. Drink now.

A grape native to Greece that has been growing in Campania for centuries, Greco (Italian for Greek) is one of the more popular white wines in all of Italy. From the hillside single vineyard of Loggia della Serra, this wine explains why the grape is so sought after. Bright gold color and sweet pineapple aromas, almost like a Jolly Rancher, are the first things you notice. On the first taste it is surprisingly dry, more than you might expect because of the sweet nose, with a zingy acidity intertwined with Bartlett pear and green apple flavors. The finish is long and cleansing, with fruit and minerality. Pair this wine with ham, grilled fish or poultry, or chilled salmon.

The 2007 Greco di Tufo Loggia della Serra is a racy, laser-like wine imbued with grapefruit, melon, mint and minerals. It offers excellent length and focus, with an inviting, refreshing finish. This is a classic Greco di Tufo that is loaded with character and personality. Anticipated maturity: 2008ndash;2012. Terredora boasts one of the most consistently strong line-ups in Campania. The estate was created when the Mastroberardino family split up some years ago. Lucio Mastroberardino gave up the right to use his familyrsquo;s illustrious name, but he kept the vineyards. Based on what I have tasted in recent years, I would say he got the better side of the deal, even if his wines arenrsquo;t as well-known they deserve to be.

Bright gold. Ripe stone fruits, honey and strong mango and papaya notes on the nose. Distinctly less minerally than most grecos, with densely packed, rather sweet flavors of quince, citrus and tropical fruits. This clean, medium-length wine will go nicely with elaborate fish dishes made with chutneys or fruit-vegetable salsas. From vines planted about 2,000 feet above sea level in the Montefusco area, a ldquo;grand crurdquo; for Greco.

A very ripe style, with dried pineapple, apricot and hints of milk and vanilla. Full-bodied, round and fruity, with a long, flavorful finish. Drink now.

This has an interesting nose, offering ripe citrus fruits and hints of apricot, with a light, spicy mineral edge. Full-bodied, with balanced acidity carrying the fruity flavors through to a long, intense finish. Drink now.