Tait Shiraz 2004

Medium bright ruby. Blackberry and licorice on the nose. Lush, pliant and highly concentrated; at once fat and fresh. Sweet, layered flavors of blackberry and black pepper. Shows none of the greenness displayed by the cabernet. An impressively dense shiraz that finishes with sweet, broad tannins and lovely aromatic purity and length.

Dense and chewy, a solid mouthful of cherry, mineral, game and pepper flavors under a swarm of tannin, finishing firm. Best after 2005.

The 2003 Shiraz is an ageworthy prospect. This big, rich, classic Barossa Shiraz reveals notes of blackberries, cassis, toasty new oak (new and used American wood is utilized) along with huge depth, a chewy, viscous texture, and loads of fruit, glycerin, and power. It should age nicely for a dozen years or more.

Dark purple. Expansive bouquet of plum jam, blackberry liqueur, blueberry, mocha, candied licorice, cured tobacco and damp earth. An imploded mass of dark fruit flavors on the palate, with earthy qualities struggling to emerge from the blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. The tannins are a bit aggressive right now, but so is the fruit. Clean, taut and packed with mineral-tinged berry fruit on the finish, which shows impressive length despite being youthfully musclebound.

An Aussie Shiraz with a big-time meaty, spicy character, showing great balance between exuberant Barossa Valley fruit and a pepper and earth dimension that adds depth and character. Wonderful now, and good for some short-term cellaring.

Firm and focused, with huckleberry and plum flavors that burst through a layer of firm, fine-grained tannins, shaded with licorice and black pepper as the finish persists. Best from 2008 through 2014.

Smooth and generous, a focused beam of bright plum and blueberry flavors playing against savory notes, hinting at smoke and roasted red peppers as the finish lingers. Drink now through 2015.