St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Kabinett Ockfener Bockstein 2009

The whiff of yeastiness in the nose of Weisrsquo;s 2009 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett (from the original Neuwied vineyard) proves perfectly delightful as an accent to apple and orange blossom; pineapple and cherry, all of which persist on an ultra-refreshing, generously juicy, delicate palate whose saline and seemingly crystalline mineral notes make for uncontrollable salivation. Look for 15 or more years of delight from this quintessential Kabinett and outstanding value, whose sweetness seems impeccably balanced despite its fully 50 grams of residual sugar. Despite Weisrsquo;s laudatory comments about Bockstein this vintage, he still sells its wines at the customary lower price than those of Goldtropfchen.

A Riesling wine from Mosel Saar Ruwer in Germany. 2009 St Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett 750ml

Enticing aromas and flavors of slate, lime and herb, in a very reductive style. Lacks expression now, but it's vibrant, concentrated, and lively on a lightweight frame. Long finish.

Terrific. Sleek, well-defined and expressive, this exhibits loads of slate and grapefruit notes allied to a firm structure. There's a density here too, which adds to the firmness. Good lingering finish. Drink now through 2012.

St.-Urbans-Hof, named for Germanyrsquo;s patron saint of winemaking, was founded in 1947 by the grandfather of current owner-winemaker Nik Weis. The estate comprises about 80 acres of vineyards, including a prime 15-acre portion of the renowned Bockstein, completed in 2009 with the purchase of the last 2.5 acres of Zickelgarten, considered to be the best parcel of Ockfener Bockstein. St.-Urbans-Hofrsquo;s other great site, Piesporter Goldtropfchen, usually garners the higher ratings, but in rsquo;09, Bockstein stars. 1,800 cases made.

St.-Urbans-Hof, named for Germanyandrsquo;s patron saint of winemaking, was founded in 1947 by the grandfather of current owner-winemaker Nik Weis. The estate comprises about 80 acres of vineyards, including a prime 15-acre portion of the renowned Bockstein, completed in 2009 with the purchase of the last 2.5 acres of Zickelgarten, considered to be the best parcel of Ockfener Bockstein. St.-Urbans-Hofandrsquo;s other great site, Piesporter Goldtropfchen, usually garners the higher ratings, but in andrsquo;09, Bockstein stars. 1,800 cases made.

The whiff of yeastiness in the nose of Weis's 2009 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett (from the original Neuwied vineyard) proves perfectly delightful as an accent to apple and orange blossom; pineapple and cherry, all of which persist on an ultra-refreshing, generously juicy, delicate palate whose saline and seemingly crystalline mineral notes make for uncontrollable salivation. Look for 15 or more years of delight from this quintessential Kabinett and outstanding value, whose sweetness seems impeccably balanced despite its fully 50 grams of residual sugar. Despite Weis's laudatory comments about Bockstein this vintage, he still sells its wines at the customary lower price than those of Goldtropfchen.