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Siro Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino 2004
I had the pleasure of sitting with Giancarlo Pacenti, the 40-year-old vignaiolo of Siro Pacenti and son of Siro, at Vinitaly in Verona this year (April 2010). We tasted his 2004 Brunello PS, his 2005 Brunello, and his 2008 Rosso di Montalcino. Giancarlo Pacenti is best known in Montalcino for taking exception with the local wine making tradition of using Slovenian oak botte for aging, yet his 2004 riserva ”PS” Brunello adopts more closely the classic production methods. While still spending the required 36 months in wood for riserva status, in this case mostly new French oak, Giancarlo selected a single, old-vine plot near the Pelagrilli estate for his PS wine, his first-ever single vineyard Brunello. The bottle we tasted had been open for an hour or so, and the wine shows a fresh, fruit-driven nose that is rich in ripe plum and black cherry. In the mouth the elegance of the wine comes through, and while the 2004 PS will need a few years to evolve, already the flavors and aromas are well articulated. I was struck by the seemingly endless progression of sensations, with dense fruits of blackberry, currant, black cherry and pomegranate. Spice from the fruit and oak were subtle and pleasing, with light vanilla and a hint of nutmeg, and some floral notes of violet and fennel drift through the senses. Even with a good amount of tannin and the characteristic high acidity of Sangiovese, the silky texture of the wine is very pleasing and the finish goes on and on. As with refined, elegant Brunellos like this, you’ll want to pair the wine with rich meat dishes like T-bone steaks grilled over wood, wild boar stew, leg of lamb roasted rare, and dark meat birds like pheasant. Cin cin! Michael
External Reviews for Siro Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino
The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino is his best to date, quite dark in its ruby-garnet tonality and ample sensations of clove, vanilla, and sandalwood. though better integrated with the plum and raspberry fruit than in the past. The intense and powerful palate, concentrated, solid, and dense, is sweet and richly fruity and the depth and energy of the flavors indicate a significant life span ahead, a good fifteen years. Only a rise in the level of the oak on the finish keeps the score from going higher.
Pure fruit here with lot of currant and berry. Full-bodied, with loads of fruit and velvety tannins. Long and delicious. Needs time. Best after 2009.
Good medium ruby. Slightly high-toned aromas of dark berries, nuts and menthol. Dense, thick and powerful, with a lovely penetrating sweetness. Still a bit dominated by its structure and showing limited complexity today. Finishes with big tannins that are chewy, lush and sweet. Irsquo;d give this one six years in the cellar, at which point it may well merit an even higher score.
This estate began making a limited-production Brunello in the late 1980s from 5 acres of vines. Today, with nearly 50 acres of Sangiovese grapes, winemaker Giancarlo Pacenti has increased production of his top Brunello without affecting quality. Pacenti uses grapes from two estate-owned vineyards. He feels that one adds a full, ripe dimension to his wine, while the other adds a full, ripe dimension to his wine, while the other adds power and mineral character.
Very ripe and powerful style. Full-bodied, with lots of fruit and a chewy finish. An extracted style, but it will come around with bottle age. Impressive concentration for the vintage. Best after 2004.
Beautiful spice, berry, plum and raspberry character with hints of spices. Full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a long, long finish. This is always one of the greatest producers of Brunello and 1999 is no different. If you couldnrsquo;t get his 1997 (97 points) buy this. Best after 2006.
A stunningly complete, cool-as-can-be modern wine with great color, lush plum and berry fruit, and very little of the earth and leather notes that some Brunello-istas may be seeking. However, if you like texture, sublime flavors of chocolate and charcoal, and perfectly integrated oak, this is for you. Consider drinking in 2005 or 2006.
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