We had this on a recent trip to a hotel near us in Scotland run by a South African chef, who keeps one of the largest SA-only cellars outside his mother country. I've always been a bit underwhelmed by South African wines -- partly owing to lack of knowledge, I have to admit. This, though, was an extraordinary, huge, blockbuster wine in the style of a white Chateauneuf -- with the addition of South Africa's signature Chenin. It doesn't overwhelm the palate so much as bewitch it, with honeyed tangs of stone fruit, orange, eucalyptus and a strong acidic backbone, belying its heady 14.5% alcohol. We drank it with the chef's tasting menu, redolent of perfumed sub-Saharan air -- scallops in a vanilla sauce, monkfish and morels. It was head-spinning, in more ways than one.