Rutini Malbec 2006

Smoky and big on the nose, with crusty black-fruit flavors backing that up. The wine is less deep and more hard and scratchy than some Mendoza Malbecs, but itrsquo;s solid and sure-footed even if the mouthfeel is stark. Probably better with food than others due to its leaner, less opulent style.

Winemaker Mariano De Paola has a way with La Consulta-area Malbec. His are structured, tight when young, and elegant when they hit three years in bottle. This youngster is full of pop and color. It's true Malbec, with broad shoulders, layered fruit and a toasty, full finish. A drink-or-hold type, and not expensive for what you're getting.

Concentrated aromas of wilberries, tobacco and vanilla. A full palate with rich, black fruit flavors and a long, lingering finish with a touch of black pepper spice.

The dark side of malbec, this tastes like roasted black cherries and minerals. Give it air to reveal its sweet red fruit, and serve it with steak.

This is an excellent example of high-altitude malbec, grown in the Alto Valle de Uco above 3,200 feet, full of fresh, almost mineral acidity, juicy cranberry aromas and foresty character on the palate; its incisive tannins create a firm, athletic structure. Drink it now with a steak, or save space in your cellar, as it will most likely evolve with age.

Fine core of raspberry and blackberry, with ample structure as well. Good mineral, toast, briar and meat hints underneath. Shows more muscle but stays nicely balanced through the finish. Drink now through 2007.

There is an intriguing aromatic character here, a sophisticated mix of roses, violets and cherry notes spiced by cinnamon and black pepper. Velvety in texture, the ripe red flavors feel round and profound. A stylish malbec for an evening on the terrace.