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Riesling Trocken Schmitt Selbach-Oster 92swj 2009

Winemaker's Notes:

"Bone-yellow hue. Presents a fascinating array of gooseberry, petrol, and honey scents. Taut and serious on the attack. Excellent concentration and grip on the midpalate, where notes of guava and ripe pears coalesce nicely...92" SWJ 7/11 "After the string of remarkable successes that Johannes Selbach has scored with block-pickings from this particular parcel it’s perhaps not surprising both that he essayed this year a dry version – 2009 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling trocken Schmitt – and that, warming up to his narration, he now refers to “this parcel behind the church and above the cemetery” where his father, Hans Selbach is buried as “the best in the Schlossberg if not at our estate. Papa – who had plenty of experience and was no follower of trends –used to say ‘you all go on about terroir; then you make three passes on the vineyards carrying three buckets, selecting with fancy finger work, then afterwards you say “so, that’s how the vineyard tastes.” Not a bit true! If you want the taste of terroir, keep your fingers out of it and pick everything en bloc.’” Not that this product of a November 18 picking is an exercise in methode ancienne, though, because Selbach decided to vinify both this and his “Anrecht” bottling from the Himmelreich entirely in stainless steel – a treatment generally accorded to at most a handful of chosen wines each vintage; the rest receiving at least in part a traditional fuder-elevage. His notion was that this might permit a clearer look at their terroir character. Grapefruit, quince, mirabelle, nut oils, wet stone, green tea, shrimp shell reduction, and smoky suggestions of peat and smoldering embers inform an intriguing nose and a densely-layered, silken-textured palate. This finishes in myriad registers, powerful yet focused and saliva-inducing. As it opens, it continues to display a greater sense of interactive complexity. Not only does this crave air, it also demands attention. Follow it and be fascinated for the next dozen or more years. ..91" WA 12/10

Region: Germany » Mosel

Vintages

  • 2009

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Winery: Selbach-Oster  
Color: White
Varietal: Riesling
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Selbach-Oster:
At Weingut Selbach-Oster we can trace wine-growing in the family back to the year 1660. We grow Riesling on 20 hectares (50 acres, as per harvest 2007) of steep, south facing mountain slopes that face the Mosel River . The Selbach-Oster vineyards are located on some of the best vineyard land in the heart of the Mosel wine country called “ Mittelmosel”: Zeltingen (with Sonnenuhr, ... Read more
At Weingut Selbach-Oster we can trace wine-growing in the family back to the year 1660. We grow Riesling on 20 hectares (50 acres, as per harvest 2007) of steep, south facing mountain slopes that face the Mosel River . The Selbach-Oster vineyards are located on some of the best vineyard land in the heart of the Mosel wine country called “ Mittelmosel”: Zeltingen (with Sonnenuhr, Schlossberg and Himmelreich), Wehlen (with Sonnenuhr), Graacher (with Domprobst and Himmelreich) and Bernkastel (with Badstube). With 55% proportion we still use the traditional “Fuder “ barrel made from German oak (This is old oak since we do not want woody flavours to mask the purity of fruit and soil flavour. A “Fuder” holds 1000 litres). The balance in our cellars is stainless steel and a little bit of fi-berglass tanks with a maximum size of 3000 litres per unit, ensuring low temperatures dur-ing fermentation and with it the preservation of freshness and delicacy of aroma. More than 50 % of Selbach-Oster vineyards are still planted with very old, ungrafted vines, yielding very concentrated fruit from small berries. Weingut Selbach-Oster is ranked by the German press as one of the best three dozen produc-ers in all of Germany and amongst the top ten in the Mosel. In the international press, Sel-bach-Oster is rated correspondingly high (Hugh Johnson, Robert Parker, Wine Spectator) and regularly ranks amongst the top two dozen German estates. Read less

"Bone-yellow hue. Presents a fascinating array of gooseberry, petrol, and honey scents. Taut and serious on the attack. Excellent concentration and grip on the midpalate, where notes of guava and ripe pears coalesce nicely...92" SWJ 7/11 "After the string of remarkable successes that Johannes Selbach has scored with block-pickings from this particular parcel it’s perhaps not surprising both that he essayed this year a dry version – 2009 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling trocken Schmitt – and that, warming up to his narration, he now refers to “this parcel behind the church and above the cemetery” where his father, Hans Selbach is buried as “the best in the Schlossberg if not at our estate. Papa – who had plenty of experience and was no follower of trends –used to say ‘you all go on about terroir; then you make three passes on the vineyards carrying three buckets, selecting with fancy finger work, then afterwards you say “so, that’s how the vineyard tastes.” Not a bit true! If you want the taste of terroir, keep your fingers out of it and pick everything en bloc.’” Not that this product of a November 18 picking is an exercise in methode ancienne, though, because Selbach decided to vinify both this and his “Anrecht” bottling from the Himmelreich entirely in stainless steel – a treatment generally accorded to at most a handful of chosen wines each vintage; the rest receiving at least in part a traditional fuder-elevage. His notion was that this might permit a clearer look at their terroir character. Grapefruit, quince, mirabelle, nut oils, wet stone, green tea, shrimp shell reduction, and smoky suggestions of peat and smoldering embers inform an intriguing nose and a densely-layered, silken-textured palate. This finishes in myriad registers, powerful yet focused and saliva-inducing. As it opens, it continues to display a greater sense of interactive complexity. Not only does this crave air, it also demands attention. Follow it and be fascinated for the next dozen or more years. ..91" WA 12/10

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