Reinhold Haart Riesling Kabinett Piesporter Gräfenberg 2009
"For the second vintage running – and despite the high overall must weights and low yields this year – the Haarts have bottled two different Goldtropfchen Kabinetts with closely similar analyses, of which the 2009 Piesporter Goldtropchen Riesling Kabinett A.P. #10 – despite having been bottled just days before I tasted it – is the more interesting A rhubarb-like tartness along with bittersweet pungency of pink grapefruit zest and huckleberry engage in a tense but static electric standoff with the wine’s residual sugar, and a suffusion of crushed stone as well as the wine’s sheer underlying density put one in mind – however metaphorically – of the steep slate slopes on which this Riesling grew. Look for a good 15 years of delicious fascination here. The wine will be put on the market at some point soon after the A.P. #8 sells out...90" WA 12/10
External Reviews for Reinhold Haart Riesling Kabinett Piesporter Gräfenberg
Very racy and powerful, displaying a pronounced ripe licorice aroma that leads to flavors of white cherry, smoke, fennel and glazed citrus. Winds up on the finish, with loads of slate and savory notes. Drink now through 2025.
Reflecting vintage ripeness in its nearly 60 grams of residual sugar despite 9% alcohol, the Haart 2009 Piesporter Grafenberg Riesling Kabinett throws up a yeasty, faintly sulfurous veil, but not for long, opening to reveal pink grapefruit, cherry, pineapple, and mint that follow on an effusive, subtly creamy, yet persistently bright, delicate palate. This finishes with succulence, refreshment, and lift while harboring lip-licking, saliva-inducing salinity and the sort of vivid crushed stone smokiness that makes one imagine kissing the red slate terraces that the Haarts recently rebuilt here. I suspect that despite the young age of vines here this wine will age well for at least 15 years.