Raphael Chardonnay North Fork Grand Cru 2006

light lemony-citrus aromas mingled with minerally salt air, a faint floral note. The oak is barely perceptible on the nose with only the slightest hints vanilla.The medium-bodied palate is a bit Chablis-like to me, rather than the richer Burgundian style many local winemakers shoot for. The flavors range from lemon zest to tangerines to green apple with minerals in the background and, again, just the faintest oak character, which comes through as vanilla and toffee. Plenty of acidity provides structure and keeps the wine lively. The finish lingers and is lightly tart. This wine's best days are certainly ahead, but it's drinking well now too.

The nose was taut at first, not wanting to give up much. But, as it warmed a bit and I swirled it in the glass, light lemony-citrus aromas mingled with minerally salt air, a faint floral note. The oak is barely perceptible on the nose with only the slightest hints vanilla.The medium-bodied palate is a bit Chablis-like to me, rather than the richer Burgundian style many local winemakers shoot for. The flavors range from lemon zest to tangerines to green apple with minerals in the background and, again, just the faintest oak character, which comes through as vanilla and toffee. Plenty of acidity provides structure and keeps the wine lively. The finish lingers and is lightly tart. This wine's best days are certainly ahead, but it's drinking well now too.

A clean, refreshing new white, Raphael's 2006 Grand Cru Chardonnay ($16) is made entirely in stainless steel tanks--the way winemaker Richard Olsen-Harbich thinks local chardonnay shines most brightly.The nose is somewhat austere, but offers lightly fruity pear and melon aromas with a wonderful smell of the sea in the background.That almost-salty minerality carries through and drives the palate with the pear and melon character taking a step back. Medium bodied with substantial--but balanced--natural acidity, this is an ideal summer house white that pairs well with a variety of seafood and lighter fare.