Ramey Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2006

The brilliant 2001 Chardonnay Russian River (5,600 cases) is multidimensional, exhibiting a sexy bouquet of honeysuckle, tangerine skins, citrus oils, hazelnuts, and smoky, spicy oak. Rich, full-bodied, and delicious, it should be consumed over the next several years.

Distinctive for its display of earth, leaf, citrus, pear and fig flavors that are well-focused, with a feel of vibrancy and a tasty, minerally aftertaste. Drink now through 2006.

Bright green-tinged yellow. Musky aromas of citrus skin, smoke, spices, flowers and minerals. Dry, cool, dense and brisk, with sappy citrus and fresh herbal flavors. A bit youthfully austere. Offers a very refreshing sugar/acid balance and excellent length. It is no easy trick to make 2,400 cases of chardonnay at this level of quality.

Spicy and intense, with rich meat, fig, apricot and pineapple flavors that are well-focused, long and lively, if shy on the extra dimensions typically found in Ramey's single-vineyard bottlings. Drink now through 2005.

(bottled the week prior to my visit) Explosively aromatic nose of sappy yellow plum and smoky, charry, resiny oak. Very rich, generous and expansive on the palate but thoroughly dry and airy. Succulent, harmonious acidity frames the fruit. Finishes with a firmly stony note and excellent length. Richer and longer than the 2000 version of this wine.

David Ramey believes in showing off the differences in terroir for his wines, and because of this, each Chardonnay from different sights is vinified the same. The Russian River is a cooler climate, resulting in a Chardonnay with a fresh acidity, with notes of honeysuckle and citrus.

Bright yellow. Smoky, leesy, mineral-driven aromas of orange, buttery brioche and iodine. Deep and chewy, with concentrated citrus and orchard fruit flavors braced by chalky minerals. Gains weight and a buttery, nutty quality on the long, sappy finish. This could pass for a suave Meursault. Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, May Jun 08