production of 24000 cases. The second wine is Les Tourelles de Longueville, introduced with the 1986 vintage, of which 12000 cases are typically produced. Les Tourelles might be regarded a groundbreaking wine by some; in early 2007 it was revealed that a proportion of the second wine, those bottles intended for the on trade (restaurants and the like, not retail sales) would be bottled under a screwcap closure, rather than the traditional cork. For a deuxième cru, even if it is only the second wine, this is a bold and admirable move indeed.

The style of the Pichon-Baron is one of contrast to sibling Pichon-Lalande, which has enjoyed a very strong following for many years because of is sensual, seductive nature. Baron, on clawing back the quality necessary to rival Lalande, has demonstrated a more masculine, structured, reserved although not quite reticent style of wine more akin to Latour than Lalande, and no doubt this is in part due to the significant proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, more than can be found in the sister wine. Pichon-Baron has a special resonance with me, as I recall it as being one of the earliest bottles of classed growth claret I ever purchased, the wine in question being the 1983 vintage at a price well under ten pounds per bottle. I must confess I wasn't very impressed at the time, but enjoyed another bottle more when I tasted it over a decade later. More recent vintages, however, have shown much more character and depth. Of all the vintages from 1997 through to 2005 there isn't a real disappointment, with even the 1997 proving that there were some palatable wines made in this rather questionable year.

A rather muted nose compared with Pichon-Lalande, although still showing exotic, perfumed and violet-infused black fruits with a roasted nut edge. Succulent, creamy, with firm tannins, quite well knitted together with the substance of the wine. Full, exotic, slightly brawny, but with good acidity. There is some finesse here, and overall it's a touch more exciting than young Pichon-Baron usually is. Lovely floral-tinged finish.    (hide)