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Michel Gros Nuits-St.-Georges Les Chaliots(2004)
- Winery:
- Domaine Michel Gros
- Varietal:
- Region:
- France > Burgundy > Côte de Nuits > Nuits St. Georges
- Type:
- Red Wine
- User Tags:
- serve chilled, lenoir grape, harvest, treat, normal, cellar, red grape, romanian cheese, acidic, green
Starting at
$40.12 USD
$40.12 USD
- Burghound
- Issue 21, Jan 01, 2006
- 86/100
-
May 2008
- Michel Gros loves working in the vines and most of my visits commence by him rushing back from one of his vineyards, replete with apologies of how this or that had to be done and couldn't wait and sorry for the (always brief) delay. As usual, he minced no words in describing 2004 as having the worst attack of oidium that I've seen in 30 years. We have to treat it in our chardonnay fairly often but it's rare in pinot. It undoubtedly contributed greatly to the variable quality in 2004. I can't emphasize enough that the number and timing of treatments was supremely important. You had read more...to treat when it was necessary to treat or you would immediately have a problem. And there were irregular storms, which meant your treatments were less effective and didn't last as long. Vigilance was key. There were rather cool temperatures in June and July which definitely slowed down maturation rates though September was exceptionally warm, indeed the warmth and clear, cool nights saved the harvest. There were very big bunches and plenty of them, which was very likely in compensation for the very tiny crop in 2003. Remember that many vines still had green leaves left after the harvest in 2003 and continued to photosynthesize and store energy for 2004. We were forced to do a severe green harvest and I calculate that we dropped around 35% of the potential crop on the ground as a consequence. We didn't start picking until September 26th and since oidium favors botrytis, there was plenty of sorting to be done. Because we had treated early and respected the necessary cadence of applications, we probably lost less than 2% of the harvest to oidium. Sugars were good at around 12% but polyphenols (tannins, pigments, etc) were lower than 2003 due to higher quantities and thinner skins. Across all of our appellations, including the Bourgogne and Hautes Côtes, we average 40 hl/ha. There was a lot of malic acid in the grapes and the winter of 2004/2005 was very cold, which chilled the cellars and contributed greatly to the long malos. The malos here did not finish until August and interestingly, the post-malo pHs were about normal at < 3.6. Indeed, I believe that the very cold cellars and long malos have retarded the development of this vintage by at least 6 months relative to a normal vintage. That is why the wines continue to put on weight and seem to be getting better every week. For my wines anyway, I believe they are true vins de garde as the tannins will require time to resolve and soften. 2004 reminds me quite a bit of 2001. (Martin Scott, Lake Success, NY, Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA, The Stacole Co., Boca Raton, FL; La Reserve and Thorman Hunt & Co., UK). A completely different aromatic profile as here the nose is somber, reserved and inexpressive with an earthy red fruit quality that combines with moderately firm flavors that are very Nuits in basic character underpinned by an edgy tannic spine and a moderately rustic finish. This is definitely much more primary than the prior wines and will require some time to round into shape. (hide)
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