has the same acidity but finishes quite dry whereas 2004 has the requisite fat to buffer the racy acidity. The best 2004s are pure and very dry but they're not hard or aggressive. Yes, you had to spend a lot of time in the vineyards and one of my suppliers from whom I normally source the Bienvenues and Folatières had such severe problems with oidium that I refused to purchase the fruit. And you had to be careful in general as hail was a factor as was overproduction. However, when the wines are good they are spectacular and what most people don't yet realize, they are actually riper than the 2000s but the firm acidity hides that from view at the moment. The best wines in 2004 come from Puligny with Meursault in runner up position and I generally find the wines of Chassagne to be somewhat disappointing - they're not bad wines but they just don't sing. Overall, I love the vintage and believe it will age exceptionally well. As an aside, Boillot told me that he has been doing less and less bâtonnage and in 2004, save for the Bourgogne and the 3 villages wines, he did none at all. The wines were bottled in February. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.; Enotria Wine Cellars, Lea & Sandeman and Georges Barbier, all UK). As is usually the case, this is less elegant but much more powerful with green fruit and herb-infused aromas that complement the rich, full and muscular flavors that offer superb intensity and while this can't match the Les Cras for refinement, this is by no means rustic or crude, indeed it's altogether lovely in its fashion.
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