Maison Henri Boillot Meursault Premier Cru Poruzots(2002)

40 and 42 hl/ha and that includes the Bourgogne. For me, the vintage is a blend of 1992 and 1996, with the accessibility of the former but the structure and potential longevity of the latter. And Boillot is justifiably proud of his wines as these are arguably the best négociant of the vintage although in passing, I should observe that it's becoming more and more difficult to easily say who is, and who isn't, a négociant, at least on some basis. The other aspect that I liked about these wines is that even though the oak is hardly shy, it's clearly more discreet than any of his prior three vintages. The wines were bottled between October and December and I tasted them in February. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.; Enotria Wine Cellars, Lea & Sandeman and Georges Barbier, all UK). Note: In Issue 11 I discussed some of the more interesting aspects regarding Boillot's meteoric rise to the top, and in a truly remarkable short period of time. I pointed out there was absolutely no cross over between the appellations at the Domaine and Maison, at least at the 1er and grand cru levels, which helped to avoid consumer confusion, something that certain other well regarded producers, conveniently or otherwise, fail to observe. While this was true for Boillot in the three preceding vintages of 1999, 2000 and 2001, there is an exception for 2002 with both sides of the operation issuing a Meursault Genevrières. This is minor point as the quality is quite similar and the suggested retail price (around $85) is the same but I mention it to you so that you will understand if you see these two wines under two different labels. Lastly, there is no Bienvenues or Criots in 2002. Earthy and green fruit aromas in the best sense of the term blend into robust, intense, extremely rich full-bodied flavors that simply explode on the finish. This is one very powerful wine and while it's no model of finesse, the finish is like a bomb going off, it's that dramatic. Curiously, as powerful and structured as the flavors are, there is so much fat that the wine could be approached now even though it will be better after a few years.    (hide)