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External Reviews for La Roseede Pavie
Both vintages of the Pavie have been pushed for size: the rsquo;99 falls into a black and chunky restlessness, exposing its alcohol in an austere finish; the rsquo;98 responds with a bold a and sassy fruit, the super-delicious wet dream of cult winemakers around the world. But here in St.-Emilion, itrsquo;s not just fruit (nor is it just oak, though the oak is still primary three days after the wine was opened). Pavie has the ancient land to back it up with a provocative grip, a glorious spice, a nobility to the line of fruit flavor. As heady as the red spice and chocolate-dark fruit may be, it retains a focused intensity that holds the attention of the palate and draws it towards elegance. Itrsquo;s about as delicious as they come.
This tremendous terroir has been brought back to life over the last 15 years by Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt. Its 37-acre vineyard, planted in deep clay and limestone soils, is composed... Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. A Bordeaux Blend wine from Bordeaux in France. 2003 Pavie-Macquin 750ml
The 2003 Pavie (7,080 cases; 13.5% alcohol) is closest in style to the 2000, but slightly more evolved and exotic. Its dense plum/purple color is accompanied by an extraordinary perfume of charcoal, creme de cassis, melted licorice, expresso roast, and blackberries. The wine, which hits the palate with a dramatic minerality, comes across like a hypothetical blend of limestone liqueur intermixed with black and red fruits. With massive depth, richness, and body, this tannic 2003 should be forgotten for 4–5 years, then enjoyed over the next four decades. The integration of acidity, tannin, and wood is flawless, and the wine is incredibly pure, rich, and intense.
Now that the 2005 Pavie is in the bottle, I would place it, qualitatively, a notch below the prodigious 2000, and a few notches above the blockbuster 2003. There are 7,000 cases of this 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Disregarding the blatant jealousy of his success as well as his ldquo;outsiderrdquo; status, proprietor Gerard Perse has pushed the envelope of quality, fashioning first-growth quality wines from one of Bordeauxrsquo;s finest terroirs. In St.-Emilion, only Ausone can be considered to have greater potential in terms of micro-climate and terroir. Paviersquo;s 2005 exhibits a thick-looking purple color to the rim as well as an exquisite perfume of blueberry and blackberry liqueur, unsmoked cigar tobacco, crushed rocks, damp earth, and hints of truffles and incense. The vineyardrsquo;s limestone soils have provided massive concentration, a laser-like precision, fresh, zesty acidity, and massive tannin. Despite the winersquo;s enormous concentration and intensity, there is a lightness to its style. As Perse has made clear, he is trying to produce modern day versions of such great vintages as 1921, 1929, 1945, and 1947, wines that lasted 50 or more years. I do not understand why Perse receives so much criticism. In the blind tastings of each new vintage conducted by the Grand Jury European, Pavie usually wins against 100 or so other great Bordeaux. As they say, the truth is irrefutable mdash; this is one of the worldrsquo;s most outstanding wines, and the 2005 Pavie should take its place among the greatest achievements of Bordeaux in the last 50 years. Anticipated maturity: 2020ndash;2060.
Dark purple. Shows intense aromas of raisin, coffee and treacle tart. Very, very ripe. Full-bodied, superrich and velvety. This is so layered and powerful. Blockbuster. Best after 2008.
Saturated, deep ruby-red. Knockout nose combines blackberry, minerals, crushed rock, truffle, vanillin oak and flowers; showing none of the porty quality of the sample I tried last year. A hugely concentrated essence of wine, offering an incredible combination of sweetness, vibrancy and precision of fruit, thanks to strong acidity and powerful underlying minerality. The chewy tannins are totally buffered by the winersquo;s material on the explosive back end. This wine has it all! Compared to the Pavie-Decesse, which essentially comes from a single block of old vines on limestone, this wine has clearly benefited by being an assemblage of soil types, with fruit from the foot of the slope contributing texture and richness. The 2005 Pavie should easily last for three or four decades.
Sommeliers on our panel described this wine as ldquo;a bruiserrdquo; and compared its controversial St-Emilion style to Pahlmeyer from California. New oak retains a prominent role in the winersquo;s aromas after two days of air, while the cassis fruit has a confiture character, dark and candied. Itrsquo;s a chocolate pleasure, simple and lush on the surface, with tension in the structure to keep it going for years. But some may side with Fiona Morrison, who noted at the en primeur tastings, ldquo;The world is full enough of wines like this; one of Bordeauxrsquo;s beautiful terroirs does not need to be sacrificed for the sake of modernism.
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