La Poderina Brunello 2007

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino presents a remarkable balance of ripe fruit, structure and freshness. Violets, dark cherries, new leather and spices are all woven together in an elegant fabric of notable class. The purity of the fruit is superb and the finish boasts tons of finesse, with silky tannins that frame the close. Anticipated maturity: 2011ndash;2021.

La Poderinarsquo;s Brunello shows impressive balance between its bright fruit and sassy spice components. On the close, the wine exhibits a tight, firm and penetrating feel that is carried forth by acidity and the natural firmness of the tannins.

Deep ruby. Rather closed nose needs time in the glass to fully reveal all itrsquo;s got, but therersquo;s plenty of raspberry, strawberry and cola here, plus a pretty floral twist. Suave and stylish on entry, with ripe red cherry and plum flavors framed by rather high but harmonious acidity. Excellent balance and a smooth texture are evident on the long finish, making this one of the best wines of the vintage.

Wines produced by estates belonging to financial institutions rarely have a good reputation in Italy. The outstanding exception are those of mega-insurer SAI, and La Poderina is their Montalcino property. The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino, fresh and dark in color, shows much floral and mineral Sangiovese character in its red currant and wild cherry nose and a broad and enveloping palate, rich and smooth in texture and admirably long on the flow. Drink 2005ndash;2016.

La Poderina's Brunello shows impressive balance between its bright fruit and sassy spice components. On the close, the wine exhibits a tight, firm and penetrating feel that is carried forth by acidity and the natural firmness of the tannins.

Very deep ruby. Slightly monolithic nose shows balsamic, minerally red cherry and a curious ketchup note. Rich and ripe, with plenty of lively acids framing the sweet, soft red cherry and plum flavors. Nicely balanced and long, finishing with a healthy sprinkling of dusty tannins. But this will need a bit of patience to reveal all its elements.

Blackberries and black cherries on the nose follow through to a full body, with soft and silky tannins. Long finish. Best after 2011.