Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay California Vintner's Reserve 2009

The uniformity and consistency of this Chardonnay over the years have been amazing. The 1997 is less sweet than previous examples, revealing and attractive tropical fruit and citrusy-scented nose, good ripeness, medium body, and off-dry flavors that are nicely balanced by the winersquo;s acidity. Drink this fresh, lively Chardonnay over the next year.

A new category of Chardonnay introduced this year by Kendall-Jackson, and likely to eventually compete with its best-selling Vintnerandrsquo;s Reserve. The wine is slightly sweet in pineapple, orange and vanilla honey flavors, with the crisp acidity that comes from coastal grape sourcing. The wine has better structure and is somewhat more minerally and elegant than the Vintnerandrsquo;s Reserve.

Thanks to Jess Jacksonrsquo;s extraordinary agricultural empire of top-notch vineyards sprinkled throughout the state of California, the 2007 Vintnerrsquo;s Reserve Chadonnay is entirely made from estate fruit. It is 100% barrel-fermented, and aged five months with 100% malolactic, an incredible fact considering the volume produced. The cuvee seems to get better with each vintage as winemaker Randy Ullom is a virtuoso at producing such high quantity / high quality wine. Purchasers should be sure they are buying it from a retailer who stores it properly as this is a serious Chardonnay. Notes of melons, honeysuckle, and lemon oil along with remarkable flavor and texture are found in this wine, which can be purchased for under $15 a bottle. It is best consumed during the first 1ndash;2 years of life.

I have talked to many talented winemakers who have worked at Kendall-Jackson, and they are all impressed by the meticulous attention to detail and overall commitment this cuveacute;e receives. It is produced from 100% Chardonnay grown in coastal vineyards, is 100% barrel-fermented, and, as one of the winemakers pointed out, if the barrels were laid end to end, they would extend for 41 miles! The residual sugar is low, so the wine tastes essentially dry. The 2000 exhibits surprisingly good tropical fruit characteristics along with a subtle whiff of spice. Light to medium-bodied and refreshing, with admirable flavor intensity as well as texture.

The wine that made K-J famous is as good as ever, maybe better. Honeysuckle and pear aromas and a slightly dry oily, sweet mouthfeel are balanced on the finish by tart green apples.

In what must be the New Worldrsquo;s finest value in Chardonnay, there are slightly more that two million cases of the 2004 Vintnerrsquo;s Reserve Chardonnay, for the first time made completely from Jackson Estate vineyards. Eighty-five percent barrel fermented, with malolactic fermentation, this is undeniably the finest Vintnerrsquo;s Reserve Chardonnay K-J has made yet. A beautiful nose of orange skins, honeysuckle, and tropical fruit is followed by a medium-bodied effort with terrific fruit, good acidity, a subtle influence of wood, and a crisp finish. It should drink well for another 12ndash;18 months.

Another new offering is K-Jandrsquo;s 2009 Chardonnay Avant. One hundred percent estate grown, it is a blend of 64% Monterey, 35% Santa Barbara and 1% Mendocino fruit. One-third is aged and fermented in stainless steel. The wine offers aromas of orange blossoms, white currants and white peaches in a fresh, fruity, medium-bodied, refreshing, Chablis-like style.