Kaesler Shiraz Barossa Valley Stonehorse 2004

Dark violet. Pungent, spicy bouquet of blackberry, candied plum, kirsch and violet. Silky in texture, with good weight and impressive vibrancy to the tangy blackberry and blackcurrant flavors. Gentle tannins provide support to the sweet fruit, with bright floral tones adding complexity to the finish. A wonderfully expressive, fruit-driven shiraz thatandrsquo;s delicious right now.

Kaeslerandrsquo;s deep ruby/purple-tinged 2004 Shiraz Stonehorse (100% Shiraz aged in a combination of French and American oak) exhibits a big, sweet nose of blackberries, cassis, pepper, and spicy oak. Its opulent, richly fruity, full-bodied, yet well-balanced style suggests it will drink well for 10andndash;15 years.

Deep ruby. Powerful raspberry and cassis on the nose, with exotic Asian spice and floral oil accents. Liqueur-like dark berry flavors are impressively poised on a silky, midweight frame, with gentle tannins building on the back. Takes a turn to bitter cherry on the long, juicy finish, with the sexy spice notes repeating.

A good value in old vine Barossa Shiraz, the inky/ruby/purple-hued 2005 Shiraz Stonehorse (100% Shiraz from 15- to 45-year-old vines aged in used oak for 15 months) exhibits an explosive nose of sweet black cherries, cassis, tar, spice box, and licorice. This full-bodied, sexy, up-front effort is impossible to resist. Enjoy it over the next 4-5 years.

The 2002 Shiraz Stonehorse (the least expensive of Kaesler's Shiraz offerings) is spectacular. It is indicative of just how special this vintage is in the Barossa. It is a teeth-staining, mouth-filling, extremely concentrated Shiraz displaying a level of quality that makes the 2002 Bogan and 2002 Old Bastard's potential quality level look scary. The inky purple-colored Stonehorse offers a great perfume, beautifully integrated wood, and sensational richness as well as length. A prodigious effort that easily conceals its 15.5% alcohol, it should drink well for 10-15 years.

The 2001 Shiraz Stonehorse (400 cases were exported to the USA) is produced from a parcel of vines planted in 1962, aged in old American oak casks, and bottled unfiltered. It is an opaque blue/purple-colored effort with a honeyed perfume of blackberry liqueur intermixed with smoke, earth, truffles, and licorice. Dense and full-bodied with a sweet, expansive palate, and a long finish (40 seconds), this seamless beauty can be enjoyed over the next 10-12 years.

Polished on the outside, vibrant on the inside, with a whoosh of cherry, plum and licorice flavor that just won't quit as the finish persists impressively. Drink now through 2012.