Kaesler Bogan 2004

Big and bold, with an unmistakable hit of American oak - vanilla and dill - on the nose, but also huge levels of fruit concentration. Creamy, thick and mouthfilling, loaded with blackberries and spice. The long, robust finish suggests a certain amount of ageability, although this is certainly enjoyable now. Drink now-2015.

Ripe and rich, but not over the top, a plush mouthful of cherry, blackberry, plum and licorice flavors, picking up coffee and cream notes as the finish sails on and on. Tannins are nicely integrated, but they can use cellaring to soften. Best from 2008 through 2019.

The 2004 Shiraz The Bogan, a blend of 98% Shiraz and 2% Viognier aged 20 months in primarily American oak, is a seamlessly constructed wine that was tasted immediately prior to bottling. Inky/purple-colored, with superb ripeness and fruit as well as loads of cassis, blackberry, cedar, and spice box, it will be gorgeous young, yet should age effortlessly for 10-15 years.

The grapes for this wine come from vines that are more than 100 years old. The dark purple color lets you know to hang on to your knickers. From start to finish this wine doesn't try to be coy or subtle - it is full throttle all the way. Flavors of white pepper, eucalyptus and spice turn into warmed fruits (not stewed) like plum, raspberry, and currant. Some wines with alcohol this high (15.5%) tend to be thick and syrupy, but this one has a balance and integration of fruit, alcohol, and tannin that is hard to match.

The 2003 Shiraz The Bogan is an exuberant, flamboyantly-styled Shiraz boasting an opaque ruby/purple color, wonderful peppery, blackberry, and currant fruit, and hints of charcoal as well as spice box. This full, opulent offering was fashioned from a vineyard planted in 1899, 1961, 1985, and 1990.

The 2002 Shiraz The Bogan, which is aged 22 months in American oak before being bottled unfiltered, is a spectacular, classic example of Barossa Shiraz. An inky/purple color is accompanied by a huge bouquet of white flowers, toast, blackberry liqueur, blueberries, and creosote. Packed with intensely concentrated black fruits and a spicy complexity, it is the antithesis of elegance. While still an infant in terms of development, it is hard to know for sure, but I suspect it will become more civilized and elegant as it evolves, and should last for 15-20+ years.

The 2004 Shiraz The Bogan, a blend of 98% Shiraz and 2% Viognier aged 20 months in primarily American oak, is a seamlessly constructed wine that was tasted immediately prior to bottling. Inky/purple-colored, with superb ripeness and fruit as well as loads of cassis, blackberry, cedar, and spice box, it will be gorgeous young, yet should age effortlessly for 10andndash;15 years.