Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Spätlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2003

Shows some characteristic Prüm stinky notes, but there's plenty of fruit lurking underneath. Pear, honey, melon and citrus flavors give an impression of great ripeness, amplified by the creamy texture and custardy mouthfeel, but there's also enough crisp acidity for balance. Drink now-2025, maybe longer.

The Prum 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese is intriguingly- as well as gorgeously-scented with peony, narcissus, heliotrope, mint, and fresh apple. Creamy and buoyant on the palate, it caresses and seduces with suggestions of lemon chiffon and vanilla flan, but then leaves a surprisingly adamant, stony, subtly zesty finish as if to put the taster on notice that there is a lot more here than meets the palate at such a youthful juncture.

Floral, peach, lime and herb aromas and flavors really sing in this elegant, silky Riesling. Beautifully integrated with the bright structure, showing intensity and length in a seamless, effortless manner. Mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2035.

Elegant aromas of Bing cherry, apple blossom and roasted pine nuts. Sweet, delicate and nonetheless creamy on the palate, with sweet herbs and a touch of vanilla. Lemon curd and slate animate this serious spätlese's compelling finish.

Poised, intense and almost embarassingly rich in texture and focus - without, I might add, being the least bit overbearing. In short, it's great Riesling, juggling all the elements that it seems only a great Riesling can accomodate. And it's got a few years on it now, so it offers a great chance to see the many interesting things that some aging will do to what is arguably the most ageworthy white varietal.

Young and unevolved, yet this shows remarkable clarity and delicacy for 2003. Very silky in texture and bright, framing the apricot, lime and slate flavors nicely. Very harmonious, with a long, lingering aftertaste. Drink now through 2020.

An almost confectionary sense of sweetness and ripeness pervades the Prum 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese, making it something of an exception in a vintage collection generally noteworthy for the restraint of residual sugar. Apple candy, caramel, and vanilla mingle on a creamy palate, with hints of salt, stone, and apple pit happily offering some counterpoint in a long and otherwise soothing finish. This showed more grip as it opened, and perhaps time will lend more cut and complexity to a Spatlese that on the basis of track record is likely to thrive for another quarter century or more. Incidentally, this represents the first of three lots of "regular" Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese, the last of which was still in tank in September.