Jean-Paul Brun Côte de Brouilly Terres Dorées 2010

Like Brunandrsquo;s other crus only three weeks in bottle when I tasted it, his 2010 Cote de Brouilly andmdash; around a third of which did time in his sole foudre and in older barriques andmdash; led with a provocatively pungent nose of smoky black tea, horseradish, quarry dust, and just-ripe blueberry and red raspberry. Bright and invigorating, it gushes with tart-edged fruit while delivering more than enough complexity to elicit head-scratching between sips. Sustained and saliva-inducing in its finishing flavors, it should remain a delight for at least the next several years. Brun seeks to assure me that a richer dimension will emerge once this has had a bit more time to rest post-bottling.

Like Brunrsquo;s other crus only three weeks in bottle when I tasted it, his 2010 Cote de Brouilly mdash; around a third of which did time in his sole foudre and in older barriques mdash; led with a provocatively pungent nose of smoky black tea, horseradish, quarry dust, and just-ripe blueberry and red raspberry. Bright and invigorating, it gushes with tart-edged fruit while delivering more than enough complexity to elicit head-scratching between sips. Sustained and saliva-inducing in its finishing flavors, it should remain a delight for at least the next several years. Brun seeks to assure me that a richer dimension will emerge once this has had a bit more time to rest post-bottling.

Bright ruby-red. Pungent red fruits and potpourri on the highly perfumed nose. Lithe and precise on the palate, offering pure strawberry and raspberry flavors complicated by notes of white pepper and candied violet. Closes with impressive energy, length and lingering florality.