External Reviews for Jean-Paul Brun Côte de Brouilly Terres Dorées
The 2012 Cote de Brouilly Terres Dorees comes from 45-year-old vines and is raised in cement foudres. It has a lively and energetic nose that actually puts the 2012 Fleurie in its place: ripe red cherries and raspberry fruit that are brisk and lively. The palate is well-balanced with supple tannins. There is impressive weight and concentration here for a 2012, and it comes adorned with a fine, cedar-infused finish. Drink 2016–2026.
Vivid red. Sexy aromas of strawberry, raspberry and Asian spices, with a suave floral topnote. Taut red berry flavors flesh out with air and pick up a deeper, darker cherry quality, with zesty acidity adding lift. Shows very good clarity on the long, incisive finish, with fresh red fruit and spice notes repeating.
After tasting his “regular” Fleurie from very nearby vines — not to mention in light of previous experiences with this cuvee — I was anticipating something special from Brun’s 2011 Fleurie Grille-Midi, and I was not disappointed. Here we have a sweeter yet almost equally bright impression of mingled black and red berries than in that corresponding bottling, and the pervasive smokiness shades from black tea toward peat. This wine’s sense of density and grip point toward abundant tannins more than does its texture, which is in fact quite refined. The mouthwatering interaction of fruit with mineral that constitutes this Fleurie’s finish is less audacious and yet more nuanced than in its generic counterpart, and will keep you happily occupied for minutes just as bottles no doubt will through at least 2018.
Deep ruby. Captivating aromas of ripe red fruits, smoky minerals and earth, along with a sexy floral note. Suave and silky on entry, then fleshy and sweet in the mid-palate, with bright minerality sharpening the red fruit preserve and rose pastille flavors. Shows impressive power on the strikingly persistent finish, which features fine-grained tannins and deep red berry character.
Vivid ruby. Spicy redcurrant, raspberry, anise and minerals on the fragrant nose. Lively, precise and juicy in the mouth, with nicely focused flavors of red fruits, spicecake and rose. Picks up weight and sweetness with air while maintaining its vivacity. Finishes with silky tannins and excellent clarity, the red fruit and spice notes repeating.
Reductive sage and smoked meat notes in the nose of the Terres Dorees 2011 Cote de Brouilly back-off with airing to reveal more predictable wisteria, blueberry and elderberry that cavort on a polished, juicy, airy and open palate, mingling with smoky black tea, crushed stone, and a twist of black pepper that helps prolong an invigorating finish. Expect to relish this through 2017.
Like Brunrsquo;s other crus only three weeks in bottle when I tasted it, his 2010 Cote de Brouilly mdash; around a third of which did time in his sole foudre and in older barriques mdash; led with a provocatively pungent nose of smoky black tea, horseradish, quarry dust, and just-ripe blueberry and red raspberry. Bright and invigorating, it gushes with tart-edged fruit while delivering more than enough complexity to elicit head-scratching between sips. Sustained and saliva-inducing in its finishing flavors, it should remain a delight for at least the next several years. Brun seeks to assure me that a richer dimension will emerge once this has had a bit more time to rest post-bottling.