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From cask, and not destined for bottling before last September, Hiedler’s 2007 Weissburgunder Maximum features spiced...Read more...
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From cask, and not destined for bottling before last September, Hiedler’s 2007 Weissburgunder Maximum features spiced apple with hints of smoked meat, its pungency pushed forward by faint heat, and a creamy, almost doughy texture that fits its honeyed finishing cast. Yet, there is juicy, primary, apple-y fruit here to refresh, and an almost indelible sense of salt, chalk and pepper. This should be fascinating to follow for a decade at least, and might well turn out to be a late bloomer and one of Hiedler’s most impressive “Maximum” bottlings. The effects of Ludwig Hiedler’s new, high-risk vinification (about which, consult issues 166 and 177 for details) continue to be felt in wines of enhanced clarity yet at the same time more, not less of the textural allure that has always been a feature here. Today’s Hiedler wines need longer to ferment, to be bottled, and to express themselves in bottle, but your patience will be rewarded. Furthermore, I can not recall a more consistently excellent collection at this address. Although he began picking some Gruner Veltliner in loess sites and rental properties on September 20, Hiedler says “only at the end of September did we have fruit approaching ripeness for single vineyard wines. Then the weather turned at the middle of October” and picking became more protracted, sporadic and selective. “We harvested until the middle of November, and, yes, at the very end there was some botrytis,” Hiedler relates, but he insists that thick, rudely healthy berries (of which he produced photos) were the norm here this year. The bottled results certainly confirm that! (This year’s collection includes a Gruner Veltliner Beerenauslese and an Eiswein which Hiedler was not ready to show at the time I last visited. I also did not taste Hiedler’s latest Chardonnay.)
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