Hewitson Mourvedre Barossa Valley Old Garden 2003

One of Australia's finest Mourvedres is Hewitson's Mourvedre Old Garden (from a vineyard planted in 1853). Although the 2003 came in just a notch below the inspirational 2002, it remains serious stuff. Concentrated, dense blueberry, floral, truffle, and damp earth aromas soar from the glass of this broodingly backward wine. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, powerful, tannic, and a bit gnarly, but impressively-endowed. Give this artisinal-tasting, personality-filled Mourvedre another 2-3 years of bottle age, and drink it over the following 10-15. Hewitson is one of my favorite Barossa wineries for French-inspired, classic, intensely flavorful as well as elegant wines aged primarily in French oak.

From vines planted in 1853, the 2002 Mourvedre Old Garden is Australia's version of a Bandol from southern France. It possesses tremendous intensity, loads of power (14.8% alcohol), yet surprising elegance. Raspberry, blackberry, and blueberry characteristics are well-displayed, along with new saddle leather and Mourvedre's mushroomy/tree bark element. The tannin is neither severe nor hard. This dense, chewy red can be drunk now or cellared for a decade.

Planted back in 1854, this is the oldest known Mourvedre vineyard in the world. The intensity and depth of flavor that these "Elder Statesmen" deliver is awesome. Dark, dense berry notes mingle with dimensions of chocolate, coffee, dry spices and subtle pepper notes. While the wine looks dark and dense, it is extraordinarily bright and attractive. This is undoubtedly one of those rare and wonderful wines not to be missed.