Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 2005

Slightly volatile on the nose with a very floral rush upfront then spicy wild berry fruit with a touch of cedar and cinnamon. Gains intensity in the glass with a sharp, assertive seared cherry and hot iron note and a touch of warm cardamom spice. Very grapefruity acidity lifts the peachy and berried fruit with a touch of passionfruit florality in the mouth. Very well managed tannins are a touch austere at this point. A solid showing for young Monfortino but one that is exceptionally elegant. 94pts

This is nicely perfumed though not showing much in terms of complexity yet. There are crisp notes of lichen-covered rocks with a touch of mint, real frutti del bosco tones that emerge with a slightly jammy edge, and some incipient spice tones adding depth. On the palate this possesses real depth and power with a fabulous, round feel and a core of sweet fruit that is restrained by the formidable structure. Even though it is so young, and quite closed this reveals huge, ripe fruit and tannins and excellent balance. I think this is still shutting down so expect near future encounters with this wine to be disappointing. When it awakes it will be a giant wine that will probably lack the precision and cut of the very best vintages but should makes up for that with its profound richness and power. 94pts

This offers a stark contrast to previous wines with it's sappy, almost burgundian fruit that remains cool and crisp and exceptionally primary with it's spicy loganberry character. This enterw the mouth with an explosion of ripe fruit sweetness that spreads across the tongue and offers up an intensity of fruit that is new worldly yet retains balance and sinewy muscularity that is firmly of the old. So round and rich right now, the only relief from the fruit is a lovely mineral tinge on the finish. At this stage the structure is still very much hidden and integrated in the plush fruit. This will be a wicked wine when it matures. 2013-2030

This was opened aroun 5 pm but it was about 9 pm by the time we got to it. At first the nose is balsam tinged strawberry fruit before exploding with hints of menthol, tar, boysenberry, muskmelon, so perfumed and intense but it fails to prepare one for the intensity in the mouth, outrageous concentration of intensely sweet and sapid fruit, after the subtlties of the older wines this is overstimulation. It's like getting a hand job without lubricant from, as Ken adds, an old farmer, if you like that sort of thing of course. Like I said overstimulation. This is just a monster, It'll probably shut down soon but is worth trying if you've got enough as it is like Barolo concentrate. Bravo!

This had lovely sweet fruit and spice notes upon opening but by the time dinner rolled around the fruit had calmed down and revealed more complexity, though I missed the sweet fruit. Leathery at first then floral and spicy with dark oily seeds which segued into a cocoa aspect then gained fatty mortadella notes and bright rosehip top notes. Eventually this began to sweeten up again with musky notes of dried porcini adding depth and engagingly sweet notes of licorice, orange rind, and peonie and a finale of espresso. All the elements of great Barolo were here on the nose but the palate didn't fulfill the promise held therein. This opened fairly big with tons of soft tannins filling the mouth and bright, youthful acidity but the wine was a bit blocky in the mouth and a touch too chewy and muddled across the midpalate. Medium full bodied with a very solid core of strawberry and cherry fruits that turned a bit more citrussy on the finish this might just be a bit too young, it certainly is, nut this bottle may not be pristine. A good but not great Monfortino 92pts

Apon opening around 1 pm this showed a gorgeous brnished red color. Exhibits a faint nose of iron, blood, and roasted stock bones. Some upfront sweetness in the mouth, dense and compact with great structure and a core of slightly confiture strawberry fruit with some leather and herbs on the long finish, a superb early showing.At around 8 pm the nose here is and endless pool of menthol tinged, minerally spicy dark berry, wild strawberry fruit - rich and dense in the mouth yet still very linear and tight. Retains the vibrancy of youth, full of soft tannins, floral and bitter cocoa top notes emerge. A very compelling bottle of wine that is just beginning to drink at peak.

This was afforded some 4 hours to breath and while it showed well it was not nearly as expressive as last years bottle. the nose was wonderful with apricot fruit right up front, very gentle indian spice tones, classic rose notes, really clean and bright with orange flesh, seared cherry and almond milk all adding depth. In the mouth this comes of as very sweet and painfully young with tons of tannin yet excellent transparency. I think this is just much less evolved than last years bottle but can't rule out a bit of damage. Of course the damage may very well have been to me after so many bottles of fine wine.