was quelled when Champagne became an international symbol for celebration): like just a few other producers, they had substantial orders from the likes of Fiat and Pirelli to feed their success. When his own work was done and the family operation had reached great heights, in the early sixties, Giacomo decided to pass the winery to his sons, Giovanni and Aldo. The credo they were taught: “Only premium quality can bring prestige to the Langhe.” Giovanni and Aldo worked together until 1969, when Aldo branched off and founded his own estate, the Poderi Aldo Conterno.

Until recently, this famed estate was run by Giacomo’s eldest son, Giovanni Conterno. With Giovanni’s recent passing, his son Roberto continues the traditional winemaking of the Langhe that has always been practiced here, resulting in the earthy kinds of wines with notes of roses and tar that made Barolo what it is.

Fanatics of quality known for their long-lived wines, this estate recently narrowed its focus strictly to Nebbiolo and Barbera. Only the highest quality grapes from Cascina Francia in Serralunga d’Alba are used for their two famed Barolos: the ‘Cascina Francia’ and the legendary ‘Monfortino' Riserva. The densely planted Francia vineyard has southwest exposure and is about 400 meters above sea level. Grapes gathered here offer deep tannins, creating ideal cellaring wines.

Over 60,000 people gather to watch as 17 jockeys in colorful costumes ride barebacked horses at lightning speed. The first horse to cross the finish line wins, with or without his jockey atop. The Palio is like the running of the bulls or the fourth of July: A summer event that captures the sense of a place, of its people, its history, its energy.

Perhaps no other single wine captures this same sense of place and tradition as does Giacomo Conterno's Barolo Monfortino--it's a monument not only to traditional Barolo but also the spirit of Italian winemaking. The below list of Monfortinos, along with Cascina Francias, is headlined by the 1998 vintage and culminates with two special Riserva bottlings from 1937 and 1958. I've also put together a six-pack of wines that demonstrate Piemonte's reach into the summer season. The Barbera's acidity cuts through the fat of a sirloin; the Dolcetto accents a tray of prosciutto perfectly; and the Nebbiolo spices up a platter of grilled sausages.    (hide)