|Christopher Keiller Fine Wine||
Giacomo Conterno Barolo 1990
98 points Antonio Galloni (Wine Advocate): This breathtaking Barolo is a pleasure to drink for its round fruit and long, powerful finish. It is exceptional in every way. Here the fruit is quite a bit darker in tonality than the Cascina Francia, with mesmerizing layers of mocha, leather, licorice and tobacco that develop in the glass and add further complexity. This is a marvelous effort from Conterno, but it will require the patience of a saint. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2050. (Feb 2010)
Editorial Reviews for Giacomo Conterno Barolo
Hard and a bit closed on the nose this remains held within a tight shell though perfumey floral tones and the sour astringent notes of cranberry and amarena cherry do manage to break out once in awhile. This is hard on the palate as well with rig tannins that are a touch drying but amply buffered by emerging amarena cherry topped with notes of menthol and tar. This is still a baby, and is also a touch of a clumsy baby without the ethereal power of the 1989. It lacks precision but should round out nicely with an additional 5 years or so in the cellar -- the hints of sweet fruit that emerge on the finale hint at the sumptuous quality of this wine. 92pts
Was darker than the ’89 and showed an initial nose of undergrowth and brooding dark red fruit. The palate was like an iron wall to me, giving enough to be highly enjoyable but still needing time to come around. The tannins and acidity form a tightly structured mouth feel with cedar and red fruit. I know that a number of other tasters were very impressed by this bottle and it certainly has a long life ahead but I feel it was dwarfed standing next to the perfectly structured ’89 and the immediately appealing ’88.