Fonseca Vintage Port 2009

In both 1992 and 1994, Fonseca was the top wine of the vintage, and now again in 1997 it is the finest wine both out of barrel and in bottle. A seamless wine that shows complex aromas of plum and spices, the structure to age effortlessly, and a lovely long finish.

Saturated blackish purple. Full=bodied. Highly extracted. Moderately tannic. Violets, blackberry, chocolate. Flora; accents on the nose lead a heavyweight palate with a solid mouthful of tightly wound fruit flavors showing great generosity up front. Finish is dominated by imposing tannins. A long-term keeper.

A young Port, with good, dark color and mineral and raspberry character. Medium- to full-bodied, with a solid core of fruit and a firm, silky finish. This is outstanding, but I expected a little more from Fronseca; not as impressive as when tasted from barrel. Best after 2006.

Voluptuous, warm and black, this wine follows a simple line even as it grows increasingly dynamic with air. The fruit is smooth and grapey, starting from a dark, stony scent of broken schist and then pouring out full and lithe. Smoky tannins, melding with the alcohol into a licorice ripeness, seem to brighten the finish, adding to the lift of the fruit. The natural simplicity of the balance should allow this to develop for decades.

Fonseca vintage Ports are always among the most attractive and long-lived. This 2003 conforms magnificently to that model. It is structured, rich, powerful and opulent. There are cassis and black fig flavors, as well as sweet tannins. It is delicious already, and will remain delicious throughout its long life.

Intensely fruity on the nose, with lots of blackberry and violet. Full-bodied and lightly sweet, with slightly astringent tannins and a medium finish. Silky. Still very tight. Needs time. Best after 2010.

Fabulous nose of crushed raspberries, balckberries and licorice. Full-bodied and velvety, with superclean fruit and a long finish. Beauty. Very harmonious for Fonseca. Best after 2011.