Fonseca Porto Vintage 1992

TN: Fonseca Vintage Porto 1992 , bottled in 1994. imported by Kobrand, Inc. 20.5 percent abv. Don't remember where I got this or what I paid for it. I think it was Cost Plus Wine Warehouse at Eastern Market, Detroit, and a good value. It's been in my passive cellar ever since it was purchased on release. Couldn’t resist a second bottle of VP for Christmas celebrations. Opened this after the 1985 Taylor that I also reported on here. Fonseca-Guimaraens didn't make a 1991 Fonseca VP, to my understanding, but just made their second wine: Fonseca-Guimaraens. Others declared a 1991 read more...but not a 1992--this probably could have been a consecutive declaration if that wasn't against the traditions of the trade, as I believe both vintages were of very high quality in general. Confusingly, the label changed for this vintage, looking more like the label of Fonseca-Guimaraens, and the name is readily seen at the top of the label. It's a label much like what you see on their Bin 27. I haven't tasted this wine yet, and so figured at nearly 15 years it's time to pop one. ________ Cork transects horizontally and is dealt with by pushing parts of it into the bottle, removed by subsequent straining. [Sometimes I use a garden-variety port funnel for this task and other times use a funnel that Starbucks sells as a coffee-filter, which is a bit finer and works equally well with more surface area available.] Opened December 25, 2006 (Monday). Double-decanted; good amounts of rather muddy crust. Dark blackish-purple with a slight fading at the very edge, with plenty of sheeting. Upon opening the nose is so dense that it would be impossible to write a note, except to say it is intensely plummy, hitting mostly bass notes on the register, unlike, say, Taylor, which gets up way into the treble. I'd have to say that this wine SMELLS dark purple, if that makes any sense. At 24 hours, color is similar. But the nose has started to develop: it is powerfully plummy and figgy, with a hint of vanilla (probably from the cask aging). and a lttle glossy plastic. There is some leather and some liquorice, and a suggestion of smoke. If Taylor tastes to me in many ways like a Cabernet Sauvignon-rich Medoc, this gives a suggestion of a Merlot-dominated Right Bank wine. The empty glass gives off a sweet herbaceousness, a bit similar to ripe tomatoes. A 'rich' port, rich and with lots of stuff going on beneath the surface, with firm acidity and firm, abundant, ripe tannins There's an energetic, stony, lengthy finish, with all of the scent components echoed. However, I think the finish has a way to go yet, and I'm expecting more expressiveness at 48 hours and even beyond. On Wednesday 12/27 the edge colors have become greener and the aromas more searching. The nose has taken on lots of depth, with the above notes plus some definite cigar box and caramel notes. Plums or prunes still are the most prominent, but are becoming integrated with the other sensations. The high notes are there, but are quite ethereal. Caramel and cigar-box dominate the palate, with a touch of tannin, and the finish is still very long and dynamic, with a touch of herbaceousness. I'd call this one at about 94-96/100, but there's more development to come, I think. Thursday 12/28 shows a wine with integrated fig and plum, with herbaceous notes predominating: chocolate and cigarbox, with perhaps a touch of weediness, not at all unpleasant, in a caramel envelope. Seems to be about at maximum depth right now. Anise is now reappearing as an entry note, with the rest of the flavors now harmoniously integrated; tannin is very gentle. A solid 94, with some upside possibilities for later bottles. Now on Friday the 29th, the fruit has died down enough so there's a nice note of lead pencil there.    (hide)

December 2006