Edmunds St. John Bone-Jolly Bottle 2010
All our red Gamay from 2011 is from the Barsotti Ranch, grown in soils made up of weathered and decomposed granite. Gamay has a particular affinity for granite, and we feel extremely lucky to have found a site to plant Gamay that seems to provide both the cool-climate the variety requires to produce its best wines, and the granite soils that seem to give them backbone, nerve, and perfume. 2011 is the fifth year we’ve taken grapes from Barsotti, and the very best of those five. The color is a deep vibrant purple-edged ruby. The smells include violets, raspberry, a little cracked pepper, mulberry, and a dash of iron. Great freshness on the palate, with flavors that are full, focused, and, for now, direct and primary. It’s delicious at the table, presently, and yet, a few years in bottle will likely give even greater depth, complexity, and satisfaction.
We have little taste for most of the wines of the New World and Australia; however, we greatly admire some of those produced by the "second generation" of California vintners, ... above all, those of the astonishing Steve Edmunds; his wines do more than express the particular personality of the vintner and have entered the arena of those that are an expression of the land and culture.