Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling Finger Lakes Dry 2013
Dr. Konstantin Frank ignited the “Vinifera Revolution” a movement that forever changed the course of wine growing in the Finger Lakes and the United States. Dr. Frank’s vision, knowledge and determination are credited with elevating the New York wine industry from a state of happy mediocrity to a level that today commands world attention.
Three and a half glasses
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The 2013 Dry Riesling has 12.5% alcohol and 4 grams per liter of residual sugar — pretty much allowing it to show quite dry and fresh, with just enough sugar to balance the acidity. Primarily sourced from the winery’s Keuka Lake vineyards, the oldest vines date back to 1958, 1962 and 1971. Concentrated and full-bodied for this modest price level, this is a beauty as well as a bargain. Pointed, focused and rather steely, it has grip and tension on the finish. As it airs and warms, though, you will notice that it also has nice fruit. It’s not just a teeth-cleaning acid monster. It’s pleasing in its youth, but it should age well, too. Fred Frank said: “The Dry Riesling has become a benchmark wine for us and offers excellent aging potential. The combination of our cool climate and rocky acidic soils results in a Riesling with naturally high acidity and wonderful mineral character. We have Rieslings in our wine library going back to the 1960s.” I’ll be a bit conservative, because I do like to take things in stages and underestimate end-date windows, but the price point makes this a can’t-miss buy, vigorous and intense. It’s drinking well now, too.
Zesty lemons and limes are perfumed with whiffs of orange blossom on this brisk, revitalizing dry Riesling. Tart tangerine acidity penetrates deeply on the palate, leading a finish that’s crisp and clean.