Domaine William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru Montee de Tonnerre(2004)

conditions. It was really warm as well, which is to say between 35 and 39º C and there was actually a day or two when I began to worry if we would have grilled bunches the way we did in some parcels in 2003. We had done a lot of leaf thinning to make sure we didn't have rot and thus there was less protection from the sun. However, the heat didn't persist and even though we had big, big quantity because of the vines compensation from the heavily reduced quantities in 2003, everything ripened ideally. A big quantity for us means between 50 and 60 hl/ha for the 1ers and grands crus and this is the highest yields we've had since our first harvest in 1998. We didn't begin picking until September 29th and oddly enough, we had fewer bunches than normal but the bunches themselves were huge and with very large berries. Normally this results in lower levels of dry extract with a concomitant reduction in mid-palate concentration yet the mouth feel of the '04s is really quite impressive. Overall, sugar levels were very good if not spectacular at between 10.5 and 11.5 for the villages parcels and 11 to 12.5% for the upper level wines. There was lots of malic acid but even so, the after malo pHs were excellent at between 3.15 and 3.35. Here at Fèvre, 2004 is a blend of 2000 and 2002 and while 2004 is not quite at the level of 2002, it isn't far off. I really like the style of the vintage because each and every terroir expresses itself well. It's as though the transparency puts the sometimes subtle differences between one cru and another on center stage. One of the reasons for this, again here at Fèvre, is that just like in 2003, we did no bâtonnage at all in 2004. I don't know that this is the reason per se that we obtained such good transparency but it's something we're looking at closely moving forward. At the time of my late June visit, the plan was to begin bottling the upper level '04s in December and January. By contrast, It's clear that the Fèvre '03s are not in the same league as their '04s (or their '02s for that matter) yet there is much to like as these are dense, powerful, punchy wines that are among the very best of the vintage. As to the Fèvre 2004s, as the scores suggest they are outstanding wines and in some cases, every bit as good as the brilliant 2002s. Note: there is also a Fèvre négociant operation but all of the wines reviewed here, with the exception of the Mont de Milieu and Grenouilles, are from domaine fruit. The négoce side of the house also issues the 7th grand cru, Blanchot, which it buys in as fruit and then controls the entire production process from that point. (Cliquot, Inc., New York, NY; there are a number of distributors in the UK, including Berry Bros & Rudd, Charles Taylor Wines and Waverley Vintners). Note: from 1/3 Pied d'Aloup and the rest from Chapelot This is aromatically riper with beautifully complex and airy peach and pear aromas blending into big, rich, muscular and full-bodied flavors that offer excellent intensity on the sappy and mouth coating finish. There isn't quite the same precision and punch of the Mont de Milieu but there is serious depth and length. In short, this is very impressive.    (hide)