container oak for the Réserve de l'Obédience to a mix of 30 to 40% oak for the Vaillons and the Fourchaume. Carrigan noted that the percentage of oak was reduced somewhat in 2002 and in my view, this is all to the good as I found several of the 2000s and 2001s to be distinctly over oaked; to be sure, some of the 2002s are still carrying plenty of oak influence but compared to their 2001 counterparts, the reduction in wood is indeed noticeable. I visited in July and a few of the wines had just been bottled with the rest to follow in August and September. (Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; Avery's of Bristol, Berkmann Winecellars and Anglo International Wine Shippers, all of the UK). Note: from 35 year old vines in another huge parcel measuring 7 ha; this is vinified in 1/3 stainless, 1/3 standard 228 liter barrels of 3 to 4 years of age and 1/3 in large wood casks A discreet touch of oak highlights complex, forward and very ripe orchard fruit aromas leading to forward, delicious, racy, saliva-inducing flavors that display a hint of honey and vanilla on the spicy and long finish. Those attributes duly noted, it is the fantastic intensity and superb length that elevate this over the Vau de Vey and this is a most impressive effort.
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