appellations. Overall, the quality is not quite as high as in '99 and the wines are somewhat more tender and open but the difference is not as great as might be imagined. And in a few cases, there is no question the quality is higher. In particular, the Clos de Vougeot and the Latricières are simply phenomenal. The wines, as a whole, are quite open and forward though it remains to be seen whether they will tighten up after the mise. As I commented in Issue 1, Mme Bize asserts that her viticultural philosophy of la biodynamie (essentially an all natural approach to farming) is responsible for the increasingly fine nature of the tannins her wines possess. Again, whether it's the farming or a change in vinification (though she does not destem and never has), I cannot say but one of the consistent comments seemingly across the entire range is the incredible texture, or mouth feel, the wines possess. It's especially apparent as one tastes through such an incredible series of powerful wines; normally, your palate would be exhausted yet chez Leroy, it is not nearly as tiring as would be expected. Fans of these Domaines will see when the 2000s arrive that the bottle has been changed. It has a very deep punt and shoulders that slope dramatically. More complex and less primary than the Brulées with supple, ripe, round flavors. This is quite linear in its flavor delivery and it too is extremely pure and fine though there is good underlying structure and acid/fruit balance which will permit it to age well.
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