she argues that her wines now have more energy and are more reflective of their terroirs. It took several years she notes for the vines to restore their own natural defenses against pests and various diseases but now that they have done this, the Domaine experiences far fewer problems. For example, she claims that since 1990, there has been no rot in the Domaine's vines. Moreover, since 1989, she says that the Domaine has applied no fertilizers or herbicides. Much has been written about natural farming in France and as Mme. Leflaive explains it, there are two approaches, one called la biologique and the other la biodynamie. Essentially, the difference is that the former uses natural products whenever possible and treats the vines only when signs of an attack have been found. While this appears like a minor item, it is actually a significant change as most domaines routinely treat their vines in anticipation of problems that may or may not appear (this is a basic tenet of yet a third approach much in vogue now called lutte raisonée or reasoned battle). Thus it is argued that vines over time become dependent on these treatments as they do not develop their own internal defense mechanisms. By contrast, la biodynamie uses the biological approach as a foundation but then goes further by attempting to work in rhythm with the cosmos and planets. In doing so, it attempts to harness the four primary elements of fire, water, earth and air to the benefit of the vines. By eliminating that which is foreign to the vine, such as pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers, the natural harmony which exists between earth and vine is restored. Domaine Leflaive adopted la biologique for all the vineyards in 1989 except for one hectare of Clavoillon, which was run according to biodynamic principles. Mme. Leflaive liked the results so much, that since late 1997, the entire Domaine has been farmed according to the dictates of la biodynamie. The Leflaive philosophy in the cuvérie is to do as little as possible. All natural yeasts, battonage one to two times a week from October to December. A different wood is selected for each wine though this may vary with the characteristics of the vintage. In any case, new wood does not exceed 35% for any wine with the exception of the Montrachet, which receives 100%. Long-time Leflaive fans will know that the Domaine also makes a Blagny premier cru from Sous le Dos d'Ane. Approximately one-third of the pinot vines were recently ripped out and replaced with chardonnay and sometime soon, perhaps in 2003, there will be a new white, a Meursault-Blagny 1er. I tasted the following wines from their holding tanks in November. Domaine Leflaive continued: Almost always my favorite wine chez Leflaive and so it is again in 99. Tight, reserved and impressively detailed nose of citrus and wet stones followed by vivid, palate staining flavors of limestone, pear and spicy oak. This has a silky palate impression and a racy intensity that just oozes class topped off by a finish that goes on and on. Drop dead gorgeous and fans of this wine will not want to miss it.
(hide)
