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I've always thought of Brouilly as one quaff away from straight Beau Jolly, in other words red wine red lolly. With J...Read more...
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Food Pairings for Domaine Jean-Aude Lapalu Croix des Rameaux Brouilly
I've always thought of Brouilly as one quaff away from straight Beau Jolly, in other words red wine red lolly. With Jean-Claude Lapalu's wine you can detect the fists behind the fruit. This is one of the new crew of sternly-made rock steady cru Beaujolais: Grapes are hand-picked and sorted, loaded by conveyor to avoid damage, and given neither SO2 nor cultured yeasts during the fermentation. During 8-10 days maceration a wooden grill is used to enhance extraction. The wine stays at least a half year on its fine lees gaining power and complexity. And yet the Brouillys are neither heavy nor clumsy and one could easily imagine them ageing ten to fifteen years. The old vines were old when Jean-Claude's grandfather began farming them in 1940. Is this where the schist of Côte de Brouilly touches the signature granite of Brouilly? It seems almost to inhabit a hypothetical halfway house between Beaujolais and Priorat! The old vines Brouilly is the combination of two cuvées, one made by carbonic maceration, the other a traditional vinification with destemmed grapes, (Jean-Claude only uses indigenous yeasts and doesn't use any sulphur during vinification, there is only some added at the bottling and then only in very small quantities: 2gr/ hl). The cuvaison lasts for10 to 20 days. The two cuvées are then assembled after their malolactic fermentation and spend the winter in stainless steel tanks. The dark red fruits on the nose and palate can't disguise a probing minerality; if ever granite was translated into liquid this is the case. Croix des Rameaux, from beautifully exposed prime parcels of eighty year old vines and aged in three to five year old barriques after a long cuvaison, disports a wonderfully wild nose of leather, tar and red cherry and palate-punching dark fruits: stylistically it seems to straddle Burgundy and the Rhone.
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