Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006

Reserved aromatically, but the wonderful balance is evident as this young Rhocirc;ne red reveals its mineral, wet earth, delicate plum, mocha, coffee and blackberry character and subtle, ripe tannins. The wet earth and mineral really shine through on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2010.

The 2000 Vieux Telegraphe Chacirc;teauneuf-du-Pape exhibits a deep ruby/purple color as well as a big, jammy, black fruit-scented nose with notions of pepper, cherry liqueur, and minerals. While fat and unctuously-textured, with abundant jamminess, high tannin in the finish gives the wine structure and grip. Anticipated maturity: 2005ndash;2025.

More structured, tannic, and backward than the open-knit 1989 and 1990, the 1988 Vieux-Telegraphe exhibits a healthy dark ruby color, and a subdued but spicy nose of red and black fruits, earth, and Provencal herbs. Medium to full-bodied, restrained but concentrated, this should turn out to be a long-lived Vieux-Telegraphe, lasting through the first 5ndash;6 years of the next century. It is less flattering to drink than either the 1989 or 1990, so readers may want to drink the two younger vintages while waiting for the 1988 to soften.

The 1996 Chacirc;teauneuf du Pape is evolved, forward, richly fruity with medium body, and plenty of smoke, pepper, allspice, black cherry and Provenccedil;al herb aromas. Seductive, round, charming and sexy. The 1996 possesses slightly more depth, is fuller-bodied, and with riper fruit concentration, but they are very close in quality. Will offer delicious drinking for 6ndash;7 years.

When Châteauneuf-du-Pape became France's first AOC, in 1936, Vieux Télégraphe had already been in operation for nearly 40 years. Today, brothers Daniel and Frédéric Brunier farm the domain's 173 acres located in the appellation's famed La Crau sector. The wine is a blend of 65 percent Grenache with 15 percent each of Syrah and Mourvédre and a dash of Cinsault, Clairette and others, all sourced from vines averaging 60 years of age.

The 2007 Vieux Télégraphe may be the greatest wine made at this property since the 2005 and 1998. Dense ruby/purple-tinged with an exquisite nose of salty sea breezes, licorice, ground pepper, jammy black cherries, black currants, figs, and plums, this is a full-bodied, rich, Provençal-styled offering with lots of sweet, ripe tannin. It is surprisingly accessible for a Vieux Télégraphe (this wine normally shuts down several years after bottling), but it should have great longevity (25+ years) given its power, full-bodied mouthfeel, and enormous length and richness. This is a brilliant effort form brothers Frédéric and Daniel Brunier.

Medium red-ruby. Warm, inviting aromas of smoky red fruits, tobacco and black pepper. Bright and gripping on entry, then juicy and brisk on the middle, with slightly medicinal red fruit, mineral and tobacco flavors and somewhat clenched tannins. A restrained Chacirc;teauneuf thatrsquo;s currently hiding its flesh. But has a classic structure for aging.